1911 first outing and question

[MosinVirus]

I have nothing to add since break-in was mentioned, as well as recommendations on what to look at if the issue continues after the break-in.

OP, please post an update once you have had a chance to shoot it some more.

[FeuerFrei]

Sorry to read about another new high dollar 1911 that turns out to be a picky eater right out of the box. Factory 45 acp ball is pretty much designed around feeding any 1911 du jour. Original spec springs etc.

My cheap to keep RIA shot Blazer brass/aluminum just fine right out of the box. Tula/Wolf steel cased etc. Never have had problems with cheap ammo.

Breaking in a new 1911 at today's prices (200rds-500rds) really is a travesty.

[TomReloaded]

This doesn't sound like a reliability or feed issue, it's just that the gun doesn't lock on empty.

If this this an ILS gun, this thing has a *30 pound* mainspring weight! It's no wonder you need hot ammo to get the slide back.

1911's are funny. They're so old now that we know what works and how to optimize them, so a lot of modding is just taking factory stuff and installing the correct parts. Springfield makes great pistols, but ILS is ridiculous.

[CWL]

Sorry to read about another new high dollar 1911 that turns out to be a picky eater right out of the box. Factory 45 acp ball is pretty much designed around feeding any 1911 du jour. Original spec springs etc.

My cheap to keep RIA shot Blazer brass/aluminum just fine right out of the box. Tula/Wolf steel cased etc. Never have had problems with cheap ammo.

Breaking in a new 1911 at today's prices (200rds-500rds) really is a travesty.

Nah, all M1911s require a break-in, especially the higher-end ones because it is precision-fitted. The parts need to wear-in together, and when done, provide a smooth, consistent & accurate pistol. Consistency is what provides mechanical accuracy.

You're trying to compare a sports car to a pickup truck. Different animals.

[FeuerFrei]

Nah, all M1911s require a break-in, especially the higher-end ones because it is precision-fitted. The parts need to wear-in together, and when done, provide a smooth, consistent & accurate pistol. Consistency is what provides mechanical accuracy.

You're trying to compare a sports car to a pickup truck. Different animals.

OEM manufacturers all require a break in period for engines.

Good manufacturers pay attention to details before a firearm goes out the door. Open the box, clean n lube, load and fire. People should expect reliable function with ball ammo. There's no magic there.

IMO after owning many a 1911 types is that a lazy company makes a break in caveat in their paperwork to excuse improperly finished firearms. It's just damn disappointing when a big manufacturer charges so much for a very old and reliable design and the thing gags when using ball ammo in it. That should never happen.

[Vinnie Boombatz]

[XDJYo]

OP-I wouldn't get disheartened by all of the 1911 hating posts.

One thing to keep in mind when trouble-shooting anything. Change one variable at a time and see what happens.

In my experience with Springfield, their 1911's are solid. Their magazines are solid. I still have many of the original 7 round GI mags I bought when I first bought my SA 1911 Loaded about 9 years ago. So far, I've only had 1 fail due to weak springs after >1k rounds downrange and A LOT of dry fire practice. Magazines are consumables, so have a good amount on hand. Factory SA mags will treat you right. Also, Wilson 47D or Elite mags are excellent quality. I've never had issues with either.

It truly sounds like you've come upon the solution though. The problem goes away with different ammo. If you have consistent reliability with Fiocchi, keep doing that. You can re-try Blazer in the future and see what happens. If still no-go, you know for a certainty it is the ammo.

As to your question on the ammo-230 grain is the weight of the bullet itself. The amount/type of powder can vary from brand to brand. Some companies will load more/less powder. More=hotter ammo. Less=weaker ammo. Weaker ammo can cause issues as you've already experienced.

Whatever you do, don't go chasing a 'gremlin' that isn't there. Keep things consistent. Don't change the mainspring housing, the mag, the X, Y or Z just yet. You'll just be pissing (ammo) money down the drain needlessly. Keep it simple.

Congratz on a great 1911. It will serve you very, very well for many years.

[hambam105]

Easy Fix. True, it's a shame SA can't slam together a 1911 that will lock back reliably.

Find a decent gunsmith familiar with 1911s and follow his instructions.

Plenty of other shooters know better and do it their way. You will know who they are. Just look to the
lower half of the names on the competitive shooting score board standings near you.

[TKM]

Blazer Aluminum sucks and can't be reloaded. Blazer Brass also sucks and has weird primer pockets that can't be reloaded.

Don't get any more Blazer unless you like clearance drills.

[walmart_ar15]

Sorry to read about another new high dollar 1911 that turns out to be a picky eater right out of the box. Factory 45 acp ball is pretty much designed around feeding any 1911 du jour. Original spec springs etc.

My cheap to keep RIA shot Blazer brass/aluminum just fine right out of the box. Tula/Wolf steel cased etc. Never have had problems with cheap ammo.

Breaking in a new 1911 at today's prices (200rds-500rds) really is a travesty.

This... IMHO if a break in period is required, then it should have been done at the factory.

[Vinnie Boombatz]

Blazer Aluminum sucks and can't be reloaded. Blazer Brass also sucks and has weird primer pockets that can't be reloaded.

Don't get any more Blazer unless you like clearance drills.

I’ve shot a few thousand rounds of Blazer brass through Berettas, Glocks and a couple Springfields (1911, XD9) and this is the first time I’ve heard anyone saying Blazer brass is junk. I’ve never had an issue with it though any of my firearms.

[TKM]

Wait until you have to go through a 5 gallon bucket of brass to cull all of the Blazer brass that will stop your progressive press like a block of government cheese in grandma.

[Vinnie Boombatz]

Wait until you have to go through a 5 gallon bucket of brass to cull all of the Blazer brass that will stop your progressive press like a block of government cheese in grandma.

That still has nothing to do with it being crap ammo, and doesn't in any way have anything to do with the OP's issue of the slide not locking back.

[CWL]

I wouldn't call it crap and I must have fired tens of thousands of rounds of the stuff over decades, I probably still have a few cases that I bought during Obama shortages. I'd shoot it through any of my firearms at the range but it has its limitations.

I wouldn't use Blazer ammo to diagnose any firearms problems.

Would never trust it for SD/HD use.

[psychophd]

Hey all,

Thanks for all the input, both in this thread and in PMs. A lot of really good info. A few notes:
1. I'm using factory mags. I do have some Wilson Combat 47Ds I bought, but figured I do one thing at a time (ammo, then mags next trip).
2. The most likely issues is the ammo from what I can figure out so far, and/or need to break in. I can't imagine my grip changing significantly between ammo types. Also, my cousin who was there with me (and also has a 1911) had the same issue with Blazer ammo (brass, not aluminum btw), and zero problems with the Fiocchi.
3. I'm not planning to use either ammo for HD for now. HD is relegated to shotgun for now (small kids in house, and even with a safe I feel more comfortable with something that my kids will have a hard to hefting/manipulating).
4. When I get out again, I'll give a followup report - might be not a few months, based on how busy work has been. *sigh* Conversely, I'm blessed that I have a job so can't complain too much.

Again, much thanks to everyone for the helpful insights. I'm eager to learn more about this platform.