TC Contender question.

[oso grande]

Anybody still shoot a Contender? Not many.
When I have the hammer cocked and ready to shoot, if I pull back on the trigger guard the hammer drops.
Is that the way it works or is mine defective?
If no one is familiar with Contenders, perhaps someone can refer to a place to find the answer.
Thanks for your patience.

[dfletcher]

I have a few, been shooting them for a while. What is most likely happening is that the barrel locking bolts are not fully seated when the action is closed and the safety, which when engaged prevents the hammer from cocking, not fully disengaged. It's not unusual, especially when using different barrels or one not originally matched to the gun. Couple of different ways to correct -

If your Contender has the single locking bolt you can switch it out for a split type. They seem to be better at fitting right out of the box. Or you can remove a bit of metal on the top of the locking bolts - no dremel, by hand. And I would start with some fine grit graphite paper, not a stone.

The area to work is the slight downward slope on the top of the bolt. You'll readily see them, they protrude from the barrel lug. I usually remove them from the barrel, easier to fiddle with.

Sounds like an "OMIGOD I shouldn't touch it" but is pretty easy to do. It's not on the same level as cleaning up and S&W single action trigger pull or 1911. You don't want to go too far, but it's fairly forgiving.

You may want to get a set of heavy bolt springs from Mike Bellm, he has a website which I'm sure includes a tutorial on how to do this. A little dressing down and the extra oomph from the springs should solve it.

If you plan on adding barrels might be a good idea to buy a few bolts anyway. They're inexpensive.

Edit: Oops -boy did I misunderstand the question. But I'll leave it as is 'cause if this was the problem it's a pretty good answer.

[DaveInOroValley]

It’s been a long time since I shot mine but yes mine would do that with any of the barrels I have. This is a Gen 1 early frame. Not a defect as far as I’m aware of but like I said it’s been a good 15 years since I last shot mine. EDIT: I brought mine into the light and tested it and yes, it will drop the hammer as described. Mine is an era early 1970's I believe.

[oso grande]

Thanks guys. A lot to think about.

[JTROKS]

I have 2 TC Contender pistol frames, a blue with a recessed background panther and a stainless will non recessed panther. Both of them will drop a cocked hammer if the trigger guard is squeezed in.

['ol shooter]

I have a Gen. 1 and familiarized myself with the action. AGI has a somewhat informative video on tear-down and re-assembly, but isn't very good at explaining how it all works. This diagram might help:
contender schematic.jpg
The Trigger #53 and the Striker #50 are enclosed in the trigger guard, and connects with the Sear #39 which is enclosed within the receiver to connect to the hammer #28 to cock the action when the Safety #37 is allowed to move out of the way by the barrel lock pressing against the Interlock Safety #60. When you pull on the trigger guard, you are dis-connecting the Striker from holding the Sear, and the Hammer will fall. It is a somewhat dangerous design, in that if the trigger is pressed while the hammer is held and let down gently, the gun will still fire if the hammer if pulled back and released.
Clear as mud?
I enjoy shooting mine and have several Super 14 pistol barrels as well as a Carbine barrel in .223. I think my favorite pistol barrel calibers are .357 max and .223, in that order. I hand-load for all centerfire calibers I own.
IMG_1691_zpsqy3bcesd.jpg
IMG_1693_zpsaiqzrtre.jpg

[oso grande]

jt

I have 2 TC Contender pistol frames, a blue with a recessed background panther and a stainless will non recessed panther. Both of them will drop a cocked hammer if the trigger guard is squeezed in.

Jt, does that bother you?

[JTROKS]

Jt, does that bother you?

Not at all since I’m used to it. Once I chamber a round, if I somehow need to verify the round in the chamber it’s pretty safe letting the hammer drop by squeezing the trigger guard. The hammer does not contact the firing pin. It’s better than putting hammer on safe (center) and then pulling the trigger. Bad if you don’t put hammer on safe and having the hammer slip.

[MyOdessa]

Anybody still shoot a Contender? Not many.
When I have the hammer cocked and ready to shoot, if I pull back on the trigger guard the hammer drops.
Is that the way it works or is mine defective?
If no one is familiar with Contenders, perhaps someone can refer to a place to find the answer.
Thanks for your patience.

Your works as intended, this is an interlock safety feature. You can also center rimfire/centerfire selector as an additional safety feature.

Contender is one of mine most favorite handguns. I sold most of my barrels, that's all I have left.


45/70 Government



From the bottom:
14" 6.5 JDJ (wildcat based on .225 Winchester brass. Good for deer size game to @ 450 yards) barrel by SSK Industries with Burris 2x-7x scope.
14" .41 Remington Magnum "Super 14" TC barrel with Beeman 2x scope.
12.75" .17 HMR TC barrel. Putting scope on it right now, since we can no longer use .22LR for hunting.
12" .22 K-Hornet (.22 Hornet improved by fire forming) by TC Custom shop.
14" .223 Remington "Super 14" TC barrel with Burris 3x-9x scope on 1 generation Contender frame.
10" .22 LR Match TC barrel with Burris 4x scope on custom flat sided 1st generation Contender frame. I killed a lot of ground squirrels and frogs with it, my absolute favorite gun.
16.5" .22 LR Match barrel by TC Custom shop with 6x Burris scope on 1st generation Contender frame.

[beerman]

I’ll have to check mine. It’s an early gun my dad bought in about ‘68/69. Love the 14” 30-30 barrel.

[JTROKS]

I have two 223 Rem barrels, 45/70, 7-30Waters, 44 Mag, 357 Mag, and 22LR. That about covers any game, from rodents to the meanest in North America, except for winged animals. I need a lead free load for my 7-30 Waters.

[beerman]

I have two 223 Rem barrels, 45/70, 7-30Waters, 44 Mag, 357 Mag, and 22LR. That about covers any game, from rodents to the meanest in North America, except for winged animals. I need a lead free load for my 7-30 Waters.

Yea the .223 was my go to for years until I got the 3030, always wanted to get the 7-30 waters barrel... I also have the original 45 LC/ 410 with the screw on choke , unfortunately I need to keep it out of state due to Ca. Laws.🙁

[JTROKS]

I put a fixed 4x scope and a red dot on the 7-30 Waters, destroyed both optics. Currently have a 4x Burris pistol scope and so far it’s holding.

The 16.5” 45/70 is a hoot to shoot with 405 grain hardcast near 1500 FPS.

[dfletcher]

Over the years I've settled on the 24 to 28 caliber stuff, although I have the usual 35 Remington, 375 JDJ and other larger calibers. Hodgden used to catalog a load using H332 with a 300 grain JHP out of a 14" Contender that supposedly did 2,100 fps. The load was "Ruger No1" level according to other manuals and definitely felt like it.

[JTROKS]

Over the years I've settled on the 24 to 28 caliber stuff, although I have the usual 35 Remington, 375 JDJ and other larger calibers. Hodgden used to catalog a load using H332 with a 300 grain JHP out of a 14" Contender that supposedly did 2,100 fps. The load was "Ruger No1" level according to other manuals and definitely felt like it.