Thoughts? Problematic slide/frame fit between Glock 34 and 17?

[rodralig]

So, for the Glock geeks out there...

The slide and frames between a Glock 17 and Glock 34 in the same generation, in this case, a Gen 3, should be interchangeable right? They should seamlessly dovetail with each other.

Well, in this case, the slide of a old G34.3 doesn't smoothly slide into a not yet fired G17.3... It will latch it if I do some fancy wiggling of the slide, but...

To better explain, please check the video below. The one on the left is a Glock 34 Gen 3 with a stainless steel guiderod, and an aftermarket barrel. Trigger assembly/connectors are stock polished (no change in geometry). It has about 10K rounds through. While on the right is a new/unfired complete stock G17.3.



Thoughts? Is there something that I am not seeing?

Right now, I am looking for the ol' barrel of the G34 and see if that is the culprit.

TIA!

[hermosabeach]

Go back to stock

G17& 34 are the same size
G34 has different connector and slide stop for competition.

But it’s the same mold.

The only way to determine the issue- well the fastest way - bring the 17 to stock.

Does the slide work?

[rodralig]

Go back to stock

That is what I am doing doing a mix-n-match.

G17& 34 are the same size
G34 has different connector and slide stop for competition.

Only in the angle where the trigger bar engages the connector

The only way to determine the issue- well the fastest way - bring the 17 to stock.

You mean the Glock 34 as the 17 is already stock? I am still looking for my stock barrel...

Does the slide work?

I am not sure if you watched the video. I did mix-n-match between the two.

The only issue is with the Glock 34 slide, which only has a different guiderod and barrel. It works smoothly with its original frame, or or less stock except for the grip tape and a polished trigger assembly; but not with the Glock 17 stock slide.

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[Snoopy47]

Part of me thinks the recoil spring wasn't set flush in the slide and barrel when trying to install.

At 1:15 did you get the slide all the way back? It looks like it was about good to go.

It didn't look like at any point in the video you pulled the slide back on either frame to complete the assembly.

Anyway.......... I've got a couple of Gen 4's 17's and a Gen 4 G34 upper and a Gen3 G34

So I'm frequently playing with things. My limitation of course is the G4 slide wont go on a G3 frame.

Otherwise I don't have problems swapping things around.

[Snoopy47]

You know what.............

Is the trigger in the fired position???????????

If it's pulled forward putting the slide on while in that position meets a significant resistance. It can be powered through, but if you don't want to force things it might cause you pause and not force it.

Pull the trigger and then install the slide

[rodralig]

It didn't look like at any point in the video you pulled the slide back on either frame to complete the assembly.

Yes - trigger was pulled back and I made sure that the recoil spring is flush.

Yes, I didn't pull the slide back on either frame to complete the assembly. I wanted to show that the G34 slide doesn't go in seamlessly. As, there is something STOPPING/BLOCKING (from the 0:24 and 1:05 marks) the slide to go backward into the G17 frame unless I did some fancy wiggling (1:10).

Otherwise I don't have problems swapping things around.

As an update, I did manage to find my ol' stock barrel for the Glock 34. Installing it on the G34 slide allowed it to seamlessly get into the G17 frame.

So, I go - so the problem is the barrel. What is wrong with the barrel (KKM Precision) then...?

If it is a barrel problem, then how come I have NO issues inserting the G34 slide with aftermarket barrel in the G34 frame but have issues inserting it in a G17 frame. Again, it goes back to the 'given' that G34 frame = G17 frame.




Am I making sense here?


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[heidad01]

Your after market barrel has worn out the catch point on g34 frame. Where ever that is.
Put some red/black sharpie ink (or something else that shows) on the bottom and around the kkm barrel. Attempt to install on g17 frame with a few back and forth. Then look at the barrel see where it is rubbing.

[rodralig]

Your after market barrel has worn out the catch point on g34 frame. Where ever that is.
Put some red/black sharpie ink (or something else that shows) on the bottom and around the kkm barrel. Attempt to install on g17 frame with a few back and forth. Then look at the barrel see where it is rubbing.

Interesting... Yeah, I was thinking the same thing.

Now, based on how the slide engages the frame and it is essentially hindered even before the back of the slide reaches the cruciform, then the only catch point would be the locking block. Hhhhmmm...

That said - since you mentioned where at the barrel is the rubbing I took a comparison photo between stock and the KKM. Does the geometry look different with you? I have been using this barrel for some time now but never realized.




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[FNGGlock]

The shoulders of the KKM looks more square where it goes into the locking block. I have a G17.3 and fitted a Brownells G34.3 slide with Glock internals and KKM G34 barrel. It runs fine with no issues, but I do notice when I swap slides I sometimes have to lift the Brownells slide a tiny bit when it is almost completely on. Mine seems to catch a little at the rear by the ejector/connector area. I just lift the rear of the slide a tiny bit and it goes on fine.

I fitted a Glock minus connector and extended slide release, so similar to G34. I just figured the Brownells slide was milled a little different to the G34.3 OEM slide.

What happens if you swap the recoil spring assembly to OEM?

[rodralig]

It runs fine with no issues, but I do notice when I swap slides I sometimes have to lift the Brownells slide a tiny bit when it is almost completely on. Mine seems to catch a little at the rear by the ejector/connector area. I just lift the rear of the slide a tiny bit and it goes on fine.

Yeah that it is the same thing that I do. I had to lift/wiggle to allow it to hook.

What happens if you swap the recoil spring assembly to OEM?

Yeah, I did that swap, too. It wasn't solving it - hence, narrowed down to the barrel.

[eternoplacer]

How about another consideration. is the metal guide rod base diameter more than the plastic one???

[G-forceJunkie]

Another Glock "Problem" solved by throwing the aftermarket parts in the trash. I wish people would just leave stuff alone. Its why I let my Glock Armors cert expire, so I didn't have to deal with this anymore.

[rodralig]

Another Glock "Problem" solved by throwing the aftermarket parts in the trash. I wish people would just leave stuff alone. Its why I let my Glock Armors cert expire, so I didn't have to deal with this anymore.

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[SuperUnImportant]

It looks like your SS guide rod is catching on the take down release. Try a simple swap with the OEM guide rod and see what happens.. At that point you can decide what you want to do..

A 17, 22, 34, 35 frames are all (literally) identical. It has nothing to do with the slide release or connector. The only other thing I can think of is the portion of the trigger bar that is slightly ramped and deactivates the striker safety plunger. If the angle isn't sharp or the plunger itself isn't rounded enough it "might" cause a momentary bind. But it shouldn't lock it up.

When you were pulling the slide back it looked like you hit the wall and then started to fight the spring compression. That's my 2 cents

** i just read your comment about the barrel swap. It's possible that the KKM barrel doesn't have a deep enough cut for the guide rod- Or I should say the combination of aftermarket guide rod and barrel are throwing that tolerance too far out of spec.

[rodralig]

It looks like your SS guide rod is catching on the take down release. Try a simple swap with the OEM guide rod and see what happens.. At that point you can decide what you want to do..

I already did that... It was actually one of the first swaps back I did.

A 17, 22, 34, 35 frames are all (literally) identical. It has nothing to do with the slide release or connector. The only other thing I can think of is the portion of the trigger bar that is slightly ramped and deactivates the striker safety plunger. If the angle isn't sharp or the plunger itself isn't rounded enough it "might" cause a momentary bind. But it shouldn't lock it up.

It shouldn't be... The trigger assemblies and safety plunger are stock. Springs are stock, too. And no, there was no spring tension that I could feel...

When you were pulling the slide back it looked like you hit the wall and then started to fight the spring compression. That's my 2 cents

Correct. It felt like there was a wall. But, as mentioned above - felt no spring tension.

** i just read your comment about the barrel swap. It's possible that the KKM barrel doesn't have a deep enough cut for the guide rod- Or I should say the combination of aftermarket guide rod and barrel are throwing that tolerance too far out of spec.

Yeah - by going through a process of elimination - all culprit points at the barrel only. My eyes aren't really that good enough anymore; so, am quite challenge to even eyeball what differences in geometry between the KKM and the stock barrels. May be tighter tolerances somewhere considering that this is the moniker that is KKM? Hhhmm...

Then again, once I get through the fiddling part and the slide is mated to the frame - no issues at all.

In the end - a very educational/insightful experience on the internals of the Glock.

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