Is it normal to have "timing" problems with revolvers?

[Rogerbutthead]

I bought a used S&W 686 and a police trade in S&W model 10 and both had timing problems after firing them a few times - causing them to jam. The 686 having multiple problems, I bought a ejector rod straightening device to fix them myself and wonder if others have those same problems.

People always said revolvers give you a sure six shots compared with a "maybe" number of rounds in a semi-auto pistol - but you couldn't say that with my experience.

Have I just bought a few lemons - discards from people who tired of problematic revolvers - or do all revolver people just get use to fixing the timing of their revolvers repeatedly - ?

[stormvet]

I wouldn’t say it’s normal or all that common but yes it does happen, the only wheelgun I ever owned with that problem was a Colt King Cobra. None of my Smiths have had timing problems and I’ve owned my 686 since 1996.

[Fatcat]

Revolvers having timing issues are usually the result of being shot A LOT, a lack of cleaning/maintenance, mis-handling, or a combination of everything.

It’s a bit late to mention, but Learning how to check for revolver timing prior to purchasing would have reduced the chances of problems. Most issues can be corrected. I’d recommend Alan Tanaka or Will ‘Ohara if you need the assistance of a local S&W gunsmith.

[CifaldiPrecision]

[ojisan]

Have you cleaned out the area behind the extractor star?
(The back of the star and the rear of the cylinder face where the star fits)
Gunk from firing can work its way into this area and keep the star from seating fully.
This can cause a host of problems such as light firing pin strikes, difficulty in closing the cylinder, the cylinder dragging while turning and the cylinder stop not locking in the notch.

The tighter the tolerances the less accepting of gunk the gun will be.
An old toothbrush goes with my S&W K-22 when it's range day.
.22s are extra gunky and with this tightly fitted gun after a few hundred rounds it's time for a back-of-the-star brush out.

[Rogerbutthead]

I'm in the San Jose area. I have straightened the ejector rods with the tools Midway sells, the 686 several times. Then every couple of times I go shooting - it jams again. (this is over decades as I am not a revolver person)

I have used a spray cleaning agent on that star part to clean it out before - taken the side plate off the frame to clean the insides. The ejector rod is what I thought was the usually culprit as I have to bend it slightly to get everything to work again. I just got use to thinking that I was the exception to the rule that revolvers are more reliable than semi-autos. I was wondering at one point if my 38 Special reloads were overpowered - just using a lee cup to measure powder, but thought that a 357 pistol should not have that problem, but admittedly I am less than brilliant in regards to firearm operations.

So am I being told there is a permanent fix I am not realizing - that a jammed cylinder is not normal - that I should have the 686 looked at while it is working fine - to determine if worn parts need to be replaced instead of straighten again - ?

If so, who is in my area (Silicon Valley area) that you recommend - ?

(Thinking about this, this is perhaps one of the reasons I believe people sell their pistols/rifles that are less than reliable. I just have a hoarding complex that does not allow me to sell any firearm.)

[hambam105]

RodgerButt

Is it the more you work on the pistols the more the pistols don't work properly?

[Rogerbutthead]

I'd say they appear to function fine when I buy them, after shooting a few of the many - some have failures. I try to learn how to fix them. I fix them, most don't give me problems - but the few that do piss me off royally.

The 686 is one. The SVD where I tried for awhile with the firing pin was another - finally have found a spare bolt for that - awaiting that part.

I have more guns than a rational person would own, however not in the same league as that guy who had all of his weapons out in the driveway down south.

Perhaps that is why I like owning them more than shooting them.

[sigstroker]

If it's really timing, once a gunsmith fixes it, it should be fine for thousands more rounds. Once the worn or bent parts are replaced, it should last a good long time.

[dozer wright]

I've seen two revolvers with timing issues. One a Was a Taurus 357 mag my dad owned. It wasn so far off time , it locked up solid from the Slug not leaving the shell . Taurus replaced it. The second was a Taurus 44 I bought It lost time went back to Taurus two maybe three times . Would Shave the Slugs enough to leave a nice 1/4 inch copper sliver on someone standing next to the shooter. My Rugers and S@W have never had issues.

[Revoman]

Timing is rather rare, it's usually caused by misuse. There are many out there that see stuff done in the movies and emulate that same stuff. Slapping the cylinder closed of doing the right hand wax off move rapidly to close the cylinder. Both are detrimental to the star and the ejector rod, which usually gets bent in the process.
If a revolver is taken care of decently and you're not stoopit with it like the movie moves, it'll last decades.
My 686 has at least 50,000 rounds down the pipe, zero issues, but I don't John Wayne my stuff either. Nor should you (not saying that you do).
You can probably fix the timing yourself as it sounds like you're mechanical.
Order an over-sized hand from Brownell's or Smith & Wesson and install it yourself. It may fit right out, but in all probability you'll need to do some stoning to fit and function right. It's a little tedious, but totally doable. The hands aren't very expensive, just make certain when ordering it's for the right revision/dash number. Smith & Wesson had a series of numbers that had a 'floating hand' that did not work well and they stopped with that nonsense.

[boattail]

On that 686 open the cylinder and look at the ejector....hold the cylinder and try to twist the ejector rod back and forth and look for a loose star to cylinder fit. Mine 686 is at S+W right now to fix a poorly made gun in that area. In these pics the ejector is turn left in one and right in the other...notice how much slop there is?.....way out of time.

[dfletcher]

I'd say they appear to function fine when I buy them, after shooting a few of the many - some have failures. I try to learn how to fix them. I fix them, most don't give me problems - but the few that do piss me off royally.

The 686 is one. The SVD where I tried for awhile with the firing pin was another - finally have found a spare bolt for that - awaiting that part.

I have more guns than a rational person would own, however not in the same league as that guy who had all of his weapons out in the driveway down south.

Perhaps that is why I like owning them more than shooting them.

On a Smith the timing problem is generally either not locking up when the hammer is fully cocked or the cylinder bolt not camming down in time to clear the cut in the cylinder. Results in a but of hesitation because the hand moves the cylinder when there's just a smidgen of engagement. I've never run across a Smith where the bolt doesn't drop in time to lock up. Quite the opposite with Smiths. The bolt drops back pretty quickly and causes a drag line between the approach cuts.

The Smith hand locks up horizontally against the ratchet, so the width of the hand and how it fits into its frame slot and the condition of the ratchet are important.

I don't think fiddling with the ejector rod is going to help with timing.

Personally I think guns with issues are more fun. Can't say that I've bought some deliberately that way, maybe a hint of a problem though.

[Fishslayer]

The 686 is one. The SVD where I tried for awhile with the firing pin was another - finally have found a spare bolt for that - awaiting that part.

What sort of ammo are you using? What is the dash number of your 686?

The early models (no dash & -1) had a recall for the hammer nose bushing. The firing pin hole was too large & some would let the primer from hot magnum loads flow around the firing pin, locking the cylinder.

Guns that have had the bushing replaced will have an "M" stamped next to the model number.

[hermosabeach]

Never flip the cylinder closed

easy way to mess things up...
TV and films teach you to flip the cylinder... horrible practice as it can bend stuff