S&W 329PD reliability?

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Well, I actually kind of found my own answer. I stumbled upon a web post which outlines the strengths/weaknesses of the 329pd.

https://sites.google.com/site/hobbyhintstricksideas/Home/s-w-329pd-info

Interesting read for anyone considering the 329pd. Apparently it can only handle around 1000rds of mag loads before the blast shield starts to crack and the forcing cone erodes. I’d estimate that to around every two-three years sending it to S&W for repair if you shoot it regularly.

[T6pilot]

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From the get go, I was aware this is a specialized revolver; and that's important to keep in mind.

Even with the potential durability issue, it appears to be an extraordinary revolver which fits it's intend role perfectly. Really there is nothing better.

Wear on replaceable parts isn't much of a concern. I was more concerned about reports of failures. Seems pretty reliable in that regard

[DougH9]

I have had one since 2004 I think. Have carried it A LOT on hunting and backpacking trips, but shot it seldomly. It is the best carrying revolver I have ever had, and shoots great with mid powered loads.

My worry is if the copper bullets (Barnes 225 XPB) I am now using might stress the frame and cause failure. There are photos of the barrel coming off out there, and the theory is that bullets impacting the forcing cone can cause it to expand and crack the frame. If that is true, then hard copper bullets would make this worse.

I have considered the M69 to alleviate my fears, but it is basically as heavy as a 686, and that is too heavy for me.

I am sort of eye balling the 3" Kimber dasa, even though it is not a 44 and not on the roster (yet).

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I have had one since 2004 I think. Have carried it A LOT on hunting and backpacking trips, but shot it seldomly. It is the best carrying revolver I have ever had, and shoots great with mid powered loads.

My worry is if the copper bullets (Barnes 225 XPB) I am now using might stress the frame and cause failure. There are photos of the barrel coming off out there, and the theory is that bullets impacting the forcing cone can cause it to expand and crack the frame. If that is true, then hard copper bullets would make this worse.

I have considered the M69 to alleviate my fears, but it is basically as heavy as a 686, and that is too heavy for me.

I am sort of eye balling the 3" Kimber dasa, even though it is not a 44 and not on the roster (yet).

Interesting! I didn't think about copper bullets possibly putting more strain on frames. I'll have to look into that.

Considering the new-ish no lead laws, copper is the only game in town while hunting/fishing.

[Beendare]

I've got a few buddies with these 329's ...and have shot and borrowed them multiple times.

A couple of peculiars about these; there have been cases where the recoil has caused the [ridiculous] hammer lock to stop the pistol....and for the cylinder to lock after shooting a few rounds.
FIXES;
You can remove the silly hammer lock easily.

Make sure the bullets you use in these are crimped well...so there is no bullet creep locking up the cylinder. [this issue is mentioned in the owners manual]

My take; This is an incredible weapon....feels like a toy when you first pick it up. Its amazingly light even loaded....lighter than my G20 with 10 rds.

It has a pretty stiff recoil with 300 gr hardcast loads. Its not what I would call horrible...but I've only shot maybe 20 rds at a time through it just plinking. It probably would get to you trying to shoot a couple boxes through it.

Very accurate...in fact funny story...when my buddies bow went down on Kodiak last week he shot a 120" buck in the face from 40 yds and dropped him in his tracks [of course]

My SW629 Classic is a better all around shooter over the 329PD....but packing the 629 around feels like it weighs twice as much as the 329.

I have multiple woods guns; SW 629 44 mag, and a Glock 20SF 10mm, Shield 9mm. If I didn't own the SW629....I would get a 329PD.

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[ClickCL]

I've got a few buddies with these 329's ...and have shot and borrowed them multiple times.

A couple of peculiars about these; there have been cases where the recoil has caused the [ridiculous] hammer lock to stop the pistol....and for the cylinder to lock after shooting a few rounds.
FIXES;
You can remove the silly hammer lock easily.

Make sure the bullets you use in these are crimped well...so there is no bullet creep locking up the cylinder. [this issue is mentioned in the owners manual]

My take; This is an incredible weapon....feels like a toy when you first pick it up. Its amazingly light even loaded....lighter than my G20 with 10 rds.

It has a pretty stiff recoil with 300 gr hardcast loads. Its not what I would call horrible...but I've only shot maybe 20 rds at a time through it just plinking. It probably would get to you trying to shoot a couple boxes through it.

Very accurate...in fact funny story...when my buddies bow went down on Kodiak last week he shot a 120" buck in the face from 40 yds and dropped him in his tracks [of course]

My SW629 Classic is a better all around shooter over the 329PD....but packing the 629 around feels like it weighs twice as much as the 329.

I have multiple woods guns; SW 629 44 mag, and a Glock 20SF 10mm, Shield 9mm. If I didn't own the SW629....I would get a 329PD.

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Yeah, the 329 is incredibly lightweight. I could see the internal lock being a problem...

I have handled one a few times; if it were just a .357 mag it would be shocking but being a .44 mag makes it unbelievably light.

The possibility of having a bullet jump it's crimp and lock up the cylinder is a serious fault. Especially in a defensive revolver which may be fired from an awkward position with lack of support. That risk can be reduced with proper ammunition selection, but even so it's concerning.

It's certainly a specialty revolver which makes sacrifices to be so light and comfortable to carry. A $1k+ luxury which for some is absolutely worth it. For me, I'm not sure yet.

I think I'm leaning towards the M69 or a 10mm/.460 rowland auto.

Back to the research grind. Thanks for all the responses and information

[Erichp]

I had a 329 with a misaligned and partially sprung yolk. the ejector bushing was digging out pieces of the frame when closed and opened. Called S&W, sent it in, and they quickly and happily replaced the entire gun. Cant ask for better service.

When I was looking at them, the triggers are worse than the steel revolvers for some odd reason. More than anything, highly inconsistent which is not typical of a regular S&W steel wheel gun. So handle a few and check the overall all action cycling and yolk and cylinder fit to include the forcing cone clearance.

The newer ones seem to run into more over clocked barrels, so do check the barrel timing as much as you can visually. That applies to all S&W revolvers.

Good luck.

[Beendare]

Back to the research grind. Thanks for all the responses and information

Anytime.

It sounds like this is a dedicated bear defense weapon. My thoughts;

I think hard cast rounds is going to prove to be the game changer on these bear charges. The old thought was, "Shoot a heavy magnum"...I think thats changing with these hard cast.

A lot of folks agree and I'm one of them....the 10mm with hardcast is slowly taking over for heavy revolvers. Big bears have been killed with a 9mm hard cast bullet. A .357 hard cast bullet is an incredible stopper....essentially, IMO with this new ammo, I don't think you are limited to 44 mag or larger due to the incredible penetration.

The numero uno for selection criteria, IMO is; What do you shoot best/fastest? I now chose a G20SF over my SW 629 classic.

If I was a revolver guy, the SW329PD is a no brainer choice....or the .357 version.... Great guns...just know their idiosyncrasies.

I'm a semi auto guy....I ran 3 cases of ammo through my Glocks this summer...so the G20 is a no brainer for me. BTW, If you go the semi auto route, be sure to function check with the hardcast as not all of that ammo is 100% reliable in the Glock platform especially if its modified.

For example, some guys rebarell...and some of those after mkt barrels have tighter chambers that theoretically are more accurate but in reality they can hurt feeding. I shoot my G20 stock except for a SS Guide rod...its 100% with underwood 200gr hard cast.

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[Griffdog]

I started my lightweight 44 search with a Taurus tracker that weighs about 10 oz more than the 329PD but has a smaller frame and only 5 shots. When I found a LNIB 329PD I bought it and was impressed so added it to my CCW for woods carry. I have been experimenting with many loading to see what will work well without killing your hand.....still experimenting haha. The copper Buffalo Bore and Underwood is good but very hot and you will know it in this gun. That said I love mine and carry in a chest holster when in the woods and hardly know it's there.