Duracoat Shake N’ Spray?

[HK9]

I’ve seen several bad aerosol jobs on polymer frames ranging from Krylon to Alumahide and every other aerosol in between. One of the major problems I see is with paint adhesion and thus, durability issues emerge. So, it goes without saying that prepping the surface with degreasing, dewaxing, thermal gassing, etching and adhesion promotion are the first steps in dealing with a polymer frame.

What I’m not sure about is Duracoat’ Shake N’ Spray product. I’m looking into whether or not I will eventually do a Flat finish of some color on my new USP9. Everyone seems to do FDE or OD Green. I want to do something different, yet not over the top nuts or eye popping. Something conservative but unique, colorful and that is a good offset to the OEM HK Black frame. I plan to retain the HK Black on all control surfaces and the magazine baseplates. So, this would be a Frame only task.

The reason I state Duracoat Shake N’ Spray is because of their available colors. I’ve visited their website and the color range for Flat finish is both deep and wide: https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes....nt=39897436873

Do you have experience with this particular brand of aerosol and have you used the product after correctly prepping your polymer parts?

Thanks. ��

[9mmContagion]

While I haven’t used it, I’ve heard good things about it along with there No-blast product..

[knee dragger]

Used the airbrush applied stuff on an AR, holding up pretty well most everywhere, but flaked off handguard a bit where it smacked a 90 degree concrete edge.

Holding up well on plastic scope caps too, all I did was degrease them.



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[FeuerFrei]

I've used it on a Tantal I put together some years ago. It has held up really well. Beats bbq paint all to hell. Followed all of the instructions to the letter.
As always with paint jobs. Prep is >50% of getting good results. I would prime plastic parts before I attempt it.

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[AGFNTB]

I have used it and it works well, but if you have an air compressor (even a small one) I would recommend using an airbrush. I use a $10 air brush off Amazon and it works great. It enables you to lay down finer coats. I've painted ARs, my old Mini-14, and even a couple old revolvers.

[knee dragger]

I have used it and it works well, but if you have an air compressor (even a small one) I would recommend using an airbrush. I use a $10 air brush off Amazon and it works great. It enables you to lay down finer coats. I've painted ARs, my old Mini-14, and even a couple old revolvers.

This, I was using a small 2 gallon compressor, just add an air dryer and pressure regulator. Practice spread and coats with distilled water to get a feel for it at no cost too

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[Guns and guitars]

I duracoat and ceracoat weapons as a part time job and Ive had really good results with the Dura shake and spray. I used it on my GAP rifle and its been two years of use and still looks amazing.

For me Ive found that blasting or at least really sanding and cleaning is the key.

[FeuerFrei]

^^ Yes. My prep was to blast it clean first. Everything down to bare metal.

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[Strykeback]

^^ Yes. My prep was to blast it clean first. Everything down to bare metal.

Sent using a long string and 2 Dixie cups

What are you guys using to blast? Ive used rustoleum hammered finish on a trap shotgun. The spray nozzles were horrible ans didny spray evenly. Wanted to start over and that crap has taken forever to get off.

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[FeuerFrei]

I use a small blast cabinet to do shorter rifles and small parts in my shop. Bigger stuff gets done at a friend's shop. I can get full length Mosin's in there.

Try Harbor Freight for some cheap alternatives.

[AGFNTB]

I prepped all my stuff (bare lowers, non-bare uppers, hand guards, misc parts) with Acetone and a Scotchbrite pad. I follow up with wiping down with denatured alcohol and blowing off with air.

My friend has used the DuraCoat No Sand with success as well.

I use the PointZero Single-action 22cc Siphon-feed Airbrush Set - 0.8mm Nozzle off Amazon ($9.99)

Both of these rifles (except for barrel, buttstock, grip panels, and scope) were painted using this method. The lowers were 80% so they were raw, the rest of the parts were various coatings prior to prep/paint.

The top one (mine) is matte black. The bottom one (my wife's) is Colt gray and Primary Red mixed to match the grip panels.

[A-J]

https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes....nt=39897436873

Do you have experience with this particular brand of aerosol and have you used the product after correctly prepping your polymer parts?

Thanks. ��

I used this on the slide for my wife's Kimber. My lesson learned is to let that stuff cure per the directions. I bunged it up a little with a sight pusher putting
the rear sight back on too soon. It's been like 6 years now and it's hard as a rock with no wear.

[knee dragger]

What are you guys using to blast? Ive used rustoleum hammered finish on a trap shotgun. The spray nozzles were horrible ans didny spray evenly. Wanted to start over and that crap has taken forever to get off.

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I sneak into work at shift change times, one or two pieces at a time. Used a hopper and no cabinet before too, just wear a really good mask and goggles away from stuff

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[RustyIron]

Do you have experience with this particular brand of aerosol and have you used the product after correctly prepping your polymer parts?

I've used Duracoat from the rattle can on a stainless barrel. It lays down flat and looks great. It holds up fine, but admittedly, it get's gentle handling compared to a pistol frame.

I'd use it again.

[HK9]

Thanks to everyone.

It seems like you all basically confirm the same things I found researching spray paints in general applied to plastics: Prep is almost everything - if not everything in the long run.

I'm going for it. I'm going to prep-clean the plastic frame AND use either a complimentary colored plastic primer or a same color plastic primer.

Some of you noted something else I caught in my research: Using very light coats and build-up layers only as necessary to get the desired effect. I'm going to be very careful to spray from a distance that enables very light coating at the outset and then use extreme light (evenly applied) coats to actually do the "painting" for me. I hope that makes sense.

I've decided on a Green-Gray'ish blend that is toned downward. I don't want it bright with too much contrast against the HK OEM Black frame and controls. But, because the surface is black - I'm going to apply a lighter flat gray plastic primer just to get the base black transformed and to provide surface area for the primary color to both bond and blend. At least, that's my application strategy unless somebody here as a better idea.

I'm also thinking about baking at 180-degrees for 10 min between initial primer coats (electric oven pre-heated and ready). I know this is not Cera. However, I really need that primer to bite like hell into the plastic, so the final can bite like hell into the primer. Again, hope that makes sense.

If you don't like the 180-degree for 10 min initial primer baking idea, drop a note and explain why you don't like it - technically speaking.

At any rate, I'll need to "gas" the plastic after cleaning at a minimum - to make sure it has been purged of oils and cleaning agents. So, the frame will see some heat one way or another.

Also, nobody mentioned 1,000 grit sandpaper(?). I also bought some triple zero (000) steel wool as well. I don't want to physically groove the plastic, but I do want to evenly etch it (roughing) and take off all OEM molding burs.

Wish me luck. Photos to follow when done.