Stupid checkering question

[krb]

[m850168]

15 lines per inch.

Seriously though, it really depends on what's being checkered, where it's located, and personal preference. In a material like wood a 15 LPI checkering might feel OK, but in steel it will feel pretty pointy. However, 30 LPI in wood is likely to be fragile, since the pyramids are so small. And the aesthetics are different.

Location makes a difference as well. The USP grip, for example, uses more aggressive checkering for the front and back strap compared to the sides of the grip. Springfield XDs also have different textures in different areas of the grip.

[MosinVirus]

[JTROKS]

[krb]

I guess - after some Google - I get the idea of the difference but I don't have enough experience to say "this is too rough and this is too smooth but this is just right." I imagine you would want different LPI for different parts - front strap, rear strap, etc. I really like the look of a smooth grip. I think it looks so elegant. But I wonder if that might compromise the firmness of holding the weapon and so compromise accuracy or speed or ability to take follow up shots.

[IVC]

What you prefer will depend on your personal feel, as well as on the application.

Think of it as you would of suspension on a car - what works for fast, tight turns might not be that comfortable for getting groceries. With grips, the balance is between comfort of holding the gun, and not slipping both under recoil and while running around with it.

Checkering is part of your grip. Grip panels provide quite a bit of it, but front and back checkering are where a lot of torque comes into play. A tight grip with the support hand will push your strong hand fingers against the front checkering. The finger strength of your strong hand grip will provide force against both front and back checkering. Any side pressure you apply from the elbows/shoulders (in even amounts, to force recoil straight up and down) will benefit from extra grip provided by the checkering.

Try it out when at the range. Ask people to hold the gun and see how it feels. Some feel like cheese graters, yet they work great after you get used to them.

[MosinVirus]

I can post some pictures, but I don't think it will help the OP.

Here is 10 LPI (90 degree pyramids) You can see that the grip scales/stocks are actually much more aggressive than the 90 degree pyramids, because they were cut with a ball endmill, and as such come up to a sharper point.





Here is 20 LPI (60 degree pyramids)





Here is 25 LPI (60 degree pyramids) I cut on a friend's DW. Also undercut the trigger guard.




Another 25 LPI

I guess - after some Google - I get the idea of the difference but I don't have enough experience to say "this is too rough and this is too smooth but this is just right." I imagine you would want different LPI for different parts - front strap, rear strap, etc. I really like the look of a smooth grip. I think it looks so elegant. But I wonder if that might compromise the firmness of holding the weapon and so compromise accuracy or speed or ability to take follow up shots.

SA TRP is 20 LPI from what I know. You could go to any store that has one and feel it. Squeeze hard and with the other hand try to "take the gun away" from your strong hand to introduce some movement of the gun in your hand. It will not represent the sharpness of recoil, nor the duration of it being in your hand over a number of full magazines fired, but it should give you some idea.

What you prefer will depend on your personal feel, as well as on the application.

Think of it as you would of suspension on a car - what works for fast, tight turns might not be that comfortable for getting groceries. With grips, the balance is between comfort of holding the gun, and not slipping both under recoil and while running around with it.

Checkering is part of your grip. Grip panels provide quite a bit of it, but front and back checkering are where a lot of torque comes into play. A tight grip with the support hand will push your strong hand fingers against the front checkering. The finger strength of your strong hand grip will provide force against both front and back checkering. Any side pressure you apply from the elbows/shoulders (in even amounts, to force recoil straight up and down) will benefit from extra grip provided by the checkering.

Try it out when at the range. Ask people to hold the gun and see how it feels. Some feel like cheese graters, yet they work great after you get used to them.

That is exactly right.

[Lead Waster]

Always try skateboard tape before paying for stippling! Way cheaper and you can tell for yourself it the extra grip is worth it to you.

[krb]

I can post some pictures, but I don't think it will help the OP.

Here is 10 LPI (90 degree pyramids) You can see that the grip scales/stocks are actually much more aggressive than the 90 degree pyramids, because they were cut with a ball endmill, and as such come up to a sharper point.





Here is 20 LPI (60 degree pyramids)





Here is 25 LPI (60 degree pyramids) I cut on a friend's DW. Also undercut the trigger guard.




Another 25 LPI







SA TRP is 20 LPI from what I know. You could go to any store that has one and feel it. Squeeze hard and with the other hand try to "take the gun away" from your strong hand to introduce some movement of the gun in your hand. It will not represent the sharpness of recoil, nor the duration of it being in your hand over a number of full magazines fired, but it should give you some idea.




That is exactly right.

Now having posted and mulled it over I am thinking it is mostly unanswerable in a forum. That is, in considering what kind of checkering to put where, you really need to shoot a variety of guns with different checkering under different conditions to figure out what you like. Or defer to the expert as to what in his experience people like.

[krb]

Now having posted and mulled it over I am thinking it is mostly unanswerable in a forum. That is, in considering what kind of checkering to put where, you really need to shoot a variety of guns with different checkering under different conditions to figure out what you like. Or defer to the expert as to what in his experience people like.

Beautiful work BTW. Simply beautiful.

[MosinVirus]

Now having posted and mulled it over I am thinking it is mostly unanswerable in a forum. That is, in considering what kind of checkering to put where, you really need to shoot a variety of guns with different checkering under different conditions to figure out what you like. Or defer to the expert as to what in his experience people like.

Exactly. No one can tell you what you will prefer.

[JTROKS]

Nice work MV.

The 25 LPI is a very nice compromise between 20 and 30 LPI. When I used to shoot USPSA 2 to 3 times a week, my calluses were thick and did not mind pointy 20 LPI checkering. Now I can’t stand sharp 20 LPI, with 30 LPI s about perfect for my girly hands.

[krb]

I looked at my handguns. Some checkering is a little rougher and some a little less rough. I’m not sure I really noticed it before. I was thinking in terms of making a custom gun how to choose checkering but - looking at handling what I have - I can tell the difference between rougher and smoother but I don’t think I can appreciate a difference if you know what I mean.

[MosinVirus]

If you are near Angeles Range I can maybe have you try mine to see how you feel about different LPI.

The 10 LPI one is called "Exfoliator" for a reason.
The 20 LPI is "RaMmeR" because it was the first RMR I have used. The pic above just doesn't have the RMR installed yet.
The 25 LPI is "Bond, Ion Bond" because it is finished with Ionbond DLC coating.

[MarikinaMan]

Ghetto checkering.