Rust Problems!

[Mr.RoDiN]

Hey guys. Im so pissed off. I was thinking about putting some upgrades on my 1911 at king's guns. I don't if they are cool or not, so i'd love some opinions about them as well. Anyway before i get off topic, I have a springfield armory 1911 A-1 loaded parkerized. First time I shot the handgun, the grip really bothered me. I don't have checkers on my grip, so i decided to buy a hogue wrap around. I was pleased with the grips untill I decided I want the slim feel of the 1911. So today I removed the hogue grips, to put on my original wood grips, and realized there was rust! I quickly got some break free and removed most of it off. There are still spots but not as bad as before. This is the first time ive had rust! Im freakin out! Hehe. Anyway, does this mean i should re parkerize my gun? Where would I do it and how much would it cost? How can I prevent this? I put a light coat of oil on all my guns and rifles about every 3 months and or everytime i touch them. I even have a dehumidifier in my safe. Also i know this is not supposed to be posted in the gun section, but I have never oiled the chamber of my shotgun, where the spring is and the shells go in. Should I? Should I also put a light coat of oil inside the barrels of my guns and wipe before I shoot them? I know oil in the barrel is very dangerous. How often do you guys remove the grips of your guns and oil them? Also how often do you guys completely strip down your guns to oil them when they are not in use? Im really sorry for the long thread. I think my tin foil hat is on waaaaaaaaay too tight.

[ts]

offtopic: like your mark ryden avatar. used to have that as my cell phone wallpaper a while back.

[Overkill]

I'd keep an eye on the rust but not go to the extreme of having it refinished just yet. Hogue grips don't breathe well and will be more likely to have rust under them.

Are the spots hidden under the new grip panels?

Parkerizing in and of itself does little for protecting the pistol. What is does, however, is act like a oil-absorbing sponge. I'd coat the rusted spots really well with some good oil, and then see what happens.

If all else fails and you want to repark the pistol, you can get DIY kits that are fairly simple. Also, Gunkote or Duracoat are refinishing options that adhere very well to a parkerized finish.

Good luck- I hope this turns out alright for you.

[EBWhite]

Contact springfield and let them know the problem. They will most likely refinish it free of charge.

[Kruzr]

It's not a big deal and common to find under the grips. Your sweat collects there and sweat is corrosive. You can use some more breakfree or Hoppes #9 and a brass brush to get the rest off. It won't take off the finish.

When you get it off, spread a coat of oil on the frame where the grips cover. Then wipe off any excess oil you see. Hopefully, you aren't storing the gun in the plastic case it came in. Plastic cases keep moisture in.

It's just something you need to keep an eye on. Refinishing will be a temporary and unnecessary fix. It will start over again. You just want to make sure it doesn't start developing pits in the metal.

[zenbubu]

Sorry to hear about the rust. I live near Daly City, where it's always foggy & moist. I had a cow when I found some rust on a P228 that I had. I now only own 1 non polymer framed pistol (Sig) I check under the grips every week or two. Some may consider it a pain, but the little time you take every week to check & clean will help prevent big shock and tears later.

[mailman]

I used the softess steal wool myself


.

[Mr.RoDiN]

So as far as using a brass or steel brush goes, should I? Would it scratch the finish. I tried using a nylon brush last night and it did nothing. Should i try the back part of a sponge? Or would that be worste? Also, does anyone here apply oil in barrels and or on the inside of the tube that holds the shells for the shotgun? As far as duracoat goes, Can i just apply it directly to a parkerized gun, or would i have to sand it down some?

[geo5120]

The brass brush will leave a yellowish tinge on the parker. A stainless brush used lightly may be your best bet. The scouring pads only in plastic form would be advisable as the other type may remove the parker more than you like.

[xrMike]

Also, does anyone here apply oil in barrels and or on the inside of the tube that holds the shells for the shotgun? As far as duracoat goes, Can i just apply it directly to a parkerized gun, or would i have to sand it down some?

After I'm done cleaning inside of my barrels, I'll run a oil-dampened mop through them a couple of times to coat the inside with a thin layer of oil. Then I'll run a clean cotton patch through one time only (loose fit), to soak most of that back up. But that still leaves a thin layer in there, very thin. Then the guns go in the safe. Before I take them out again I'll run another clean cotton patch through to soak up any remaining oil before shooting. This has worked well for me so far.

As for duracoating or any other spray, parkerizing is a GREAT base for holding down a long-lasting new coating, but every manufacturer I've seen usually recommends that you sand or bead-blast it first.

[krim]

Sorry to hear about the rust. I live near Daly City, where it's always foggy & moist. I had a cow when I found some rust on a P228 that I had. I now only own 1 non polymer framed pistol (Sig) I check under the grips every week or two. Some may consider it a pain, but the little time you take every week to check & clean will help prevent big shock and tears later.

eew, im going to go home and check under the hogue grips.

[Blue]

eew, im going to go home and check under the hogue grips.

+1

As for the rust, when I noticed it on my XD I took the slide off and soaked it in a plastic bag with some CLP. Scrubbed it down in the morning and put it back together and only minimal rust has showed up since.

[xenophobe]

Under grips, if you're paranoid about rust (checking under your grips every couple of weeks qualifies)... put a little RIG on a cloth and sparingly wipe down the frame before you put your grips on.

Steel wool has been mentioned. With firearms, only use 0000 Super Fine steel wool. With a little oil, it will not damage a blue or park, but it will remove color from case hardening/oil quenched finishes...

[krim]

the 228 is free of rust... almost 10 yrs since i took off the grips.. im surprised that it's pretty clean down there.

[Kruzr]

I'd suggest using the brass or copper brush. The residue can be wiped off with a patch wet with Hoppes 9 or MPro7. Just about any solvent.......not a CLP. Stainless steel brushes can scratch pretty good. Steel wool can leave small steel particles on the finish and in any pits that may have formed. Rust comes back quickly if you don't get it all out.