Revolver question

[Bushwack44]

TWO QUESTIONS:

1. From what I've read, factory brass is better to shoot when it comes to semi-autos. But does it matter whether shooting steel case or brass with a revolver (i.e. Ruger Match Champion or a snub nose at a shooting range)?

2. In a self defense scenario, assuming your target is 5 yards away, are you significantly better off using +p JHP or standard 38sp JHP (these are the two options - please don't deviate).

TIA

[ojisan]

1. As long as the steel (or aluminum) cases don't stick in the chamber when ejecting, there is no real difference.

2. "Significantly better" could be debated forever.
However, velocity is good and helps the bullet perform, so I would go with +P to get the most out of the round being fired.
Look at an old round like .38 S&W / British .380 revolver which is like a powder-puff .38 special target load.
.38 caliber, about 160-170 grain bullet, but only 600+ FPS velocity...not very powerful.

Note that the .357 Magnum is also a .38 cal 160g bullet...everyone thinks this round is very good for defense.
What makes the difference between the .38 S&W and .38 Special is the higher velocity of the .357 Mag.

Velocity matters!

[P5Ret]

1) Shouldn't be a problem, ejecting as already mentioned is the primary concern. You don't have the same forces loading a revolver as you do a semi, so the risk of damaging one of the chamber's during loading is almost nonexistent.

2) This one is a bit harder to answer, and there probably is no real answer. I'd go with the round that you are best able to control the recoil on for accurate follow up shots, especially with a snub. Keep in mind with a snub any gain in velocity you get with +P is going to be minimal due to the shorter barrel. It won't be the same as quoted by the manufacturer who more than likely tested the rounds in a 4" barrel.

[SkyHawk]

Question 2 depends on barrel length. In a snub, I want the hottest round possible to insure expansion because there is almost no acceleration in the short barrel. As you get to 4" or especially 6", it becomes less critical and you can even get to the point of no expansion/over penetration if you go too hot in a long barrel.

[SoCal Bob]

1. The case probably won't matter as long as the primers are in spec. You would need to try out any ammo you might use to make sure it works well in your firearm.

2. Lucky Gunner did some ballistics testing, here are the .38 results: https://www.luckygunner.com/labs/rev...cs-test/#38spl

[glocksigtastic]

Question 2 depends on barrel length. In a snub, I want the hottest round possible to insure expansion because there is almost no acceleration in the short barrel.

You beat me to it.

[Jeepergeo]

For the revolver, I like the way nickle plated brass slips into the cylinder compared to regular brass.

No steel case and no Russian for me in anything.

[MyOdessa]

1. Except for 7.62x39, I don't use steel cases. Brass is easy on the gun and great for reloading, especially after 1/1/18 in California.

2. No opinion on .38 Spl, I do not shoot it.

[lswanie]

These are observations from my sw 27-3 (.357 mag) as it pertains to shooting .38 specials.

The .38 special feels kind of like shooting off an old timey cannon, there is a kind of "poof" sensation compared to the 357 mag (dont worry not dragging that into this). I have less experience with the +p variant but have shot a couple boxes, when looking for home defense ammo (I keep .38s in it while in the safe, way too much penetration in a 357 for city dwelling, at least imo)

Now the .38 special +P is one snappy friggin round. I am (or was, don't think I'll buy anymore) always surprised how much recoil there is relative to a normal one. Way more than I expected after reading about the ballistics of the respective rounds. The +p felt almost like shooting a 357 mag, and I am assuming the pressure of a +p 38 special is pretty intense and only intended for certain platforms or ones already chambered for 357 mag. And even then...idk it just didn't seem healthy for the 27. I am protective of that one.

Only brass goes in my baby.

[sigfan91]

TWO QUESTIONS:

1. From what I've read, factory brass is better to shoot when it comes to semi-autos. But does it matter whether shooting steel case or brass with a revolver (i.e. Ruger Match Champion or a snub nose at a shooting range)?

There is no difference between steel case and brass case. Some say steel is harder on the extractor. That might be true, but with the money you saved by shooting cheap steel rounds, you could buy a new gun by the time the extractor breaks.

Brass is better if you reload, of course.

2. In a self defense scenario, assuming your target is 5 yards away, are you significantly better off using +p JHP or standard 38sp JHP (these are the two options - please don't deviate).

TIA

Others have said it already, it depends on barrel length. A regular 38 special out of a 6 in barrel is significantly more powerful than one from a snubby. Theoretically you would want to put the most powerful round in a snubby to maximize the gun's (not the round's) power. However, a +P round from a light snubby could be uncomfortable to shoot. I do not like to shoot my snubby even with regular 38 special rounds. It's simply too light to absorb any recoil.

[WMG]

TWO QUESTIONS:

1. From what I've read, factory brass is better to shoot when it comes to semi-autos. But does it matter whether shooting steel case or brass with a revolver (i.e. Ruger Match Champion or a snub nose at a shooting range)?

2. In a self defense scenario, assuming your target is 5 yards away, are you significantly better off using +p JHP or standard 38sp JHP (these are the two options - please don't deviate).

TIA

plus p does not always mean more speed ..... keep that in mind.
most if not all self defense 38 ammo will be plus p ....... non plus p can actually be hard to find at times and options not as many....

As for steel cased ammo ..... I do not hate steel case ammo .. but Tulammo in 357 is reported to be a crappy ammo to use in a 357...... seems to not want to extract well at all.