So I detail stripped my P220 ST and got to thinking....the hammer spring (not the mainspring) is there to bring the hammer back to a half-cock position. I can understand that this needs to happen so the hammer can rest on the half-cock notch. Have any of you Sig owners removed this spring and not have the hammer "bounce" back to half-cock? If so, did it interfere with the gun's safety function or cycling? I'm thinking that without the "bounce" the gun can be more accurate in that it wouldn't have that momentary hamer shake. Thanks for the info.
Unconfigured Ad Widget
Collapse
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sig P series question
Collapse
X
-
what kind of accuracy are you trying to obtain? If you're not shooting 1-2 inches at 20 yards with it, the locktime for the hammer to hit the striker really isn't going to help you out in the accuracy department.. As a side note, I believe the X-series is designed with the same hammer return setup... Those guns, from the factory, are capable of 2 inch groups at 50 yards..
As far as the needing the hammer return spring, it doesnt effect the cycling or circumvent any safety features. It's there to return the hammer and reset the trigger bar.. If it's not there, the hammer has a tendancy to not reset, which essentially keeps you from engaging the hammer for any repeated DA trigger presses.
To illustrate what Im saying, you can try this.
1) Make sure your Sig is empty..repeat this 3x.
2) DA pull the trigger. DO NOT let the trigger out, HOLD THE TRIGGER BACK COMPLETELY.
3) The hammer will fall and at this point, with your opposite hand, press the the hammer forward into the back of the firing pin while still pressing on the trigger. Youll feel that tiny bit of resistance from the return spring. DO NOT LET THE TRIGGER OUT. If you have, start over.
4) With the hammer still held forward, you can now release the trigger and let it out..
5) Pull on the trigger (repeatedly). You'll find that the gun won't engage the hammer.. To prove my point you can let the hammer return to its natural position. Pressing the trigger at this point will now work..
Thats why the hammer return spring is important.. It resets the hammer so that the trigger bar can re-engage it on subsequent DA pulls. If you're shooting live ammo, you wont notice it as the cycling naturally resets the gun. The only issue youll have is if you have a dud/light primer strike in which case the hammer MIGHT not reset. You'll either have to thumb the hammer back or yank the slide. dry firing also sucks if the spring is not there. I know because I broke mine and had to wait a few weeks for it to ship out.. It's not a complete paperweight as it still functions if your ammo goes "bang".
I hope that answers your question.Last edited by Voo; 01-27-2009, 7:01 PM.Aloha snackbar! -
Hey thanks Voo! I thought about the trigger not resetting but the cycling of the slide by live ammo would cock the hammer anyway. But you said it, the amount of accuracy I would gain would be negligible. I guess I was looking for ways to make my Sig's trigger be more like a 1911 where the hammer goes down and just stays there. Alright, I have to spend more range time (and plenty of dry-firing in between) with the Sig to get better with it. Calguns came through once again.Comment
Calguns.net Statistics
Collapse
Topics: 1,866,958
Posts: 25,151,684
Members: 357,208
Active Members: 4,692
Welcome to our newest member, muddywatters.
What's Going On
Collapse
There are currently 32286 users online. 132 members and 32154 guests.
Most users ever online was 239,041 at 10:39 PM on 02-14-2026.

Comment