Trigger work on a Ruger Redhawk

[Seaweed02]

Who does trigger work on Ruger Redhawk Revolvers?

I would like to have the internals polished up, a lighter spring installed, and an extended firing pin. Does anyone in NorCal do that kind of work? Or are those things pretty easy to do yourself? I couldn't find any videos on YouTube

[ARDude]

The internals of a Redhawk, GP,SP series revolvers are very similar.
Very easy to polish yourself.
Check youtube vids on GP/SP revolvers.

When you polish, I suggest not using a dremel...unless you have experience in smithing with it.

[Seaweed02]

OH

The internals of a Redhawk, GP,SP series revolvers are very similar.
Very easy to polish yourself.
Check youtube vids on GP/SP revolvers.

When you polish, I suggest not using a dremel...unless you have experience in smithing with it.

I thought they were different because the Redhawk doesn't have a separate trigger spring and hammer spring, but instead combines both together. Does anyone sell an extended firing pin for the Ruger Redhawk? I googled it but didn't come up with anything.

[ARDude]

Yes, the Redhawk has the one spring does it all, but the breakdown is basically the same. If you decide to replace with Wolf springs , you might have light strikes. Is that why you are looking for extended firing pin?
I have not heard of extended pins for a Redhawk.

I suggest reading this website:

https://www.sp101trigger.com

[Seaweed02]

Yes

Yes, the Redhawk has the one spring does it all, but the breakdown is basically the same. If you decide to replace with Wolf springs , you might have light strikes. Is that why you are looking for extended firing pin?
I have not heard of extended pins for a Redhawk.

I suggest reading this website:
www.sp101trigger.com

Yes that is why I was interested in the extended firing pin. I too read that if you install a lighter spring you may get light primer strikes. I just got off the phone with a gunsmith here in Redding CA who says he can remove some material from some part inside the revovler, and that will allow the firing pin to extend out a few thousands which should be good enough to compensate for any light primer strikes caused by the lighter springs.

[desertrider]

Tagging this thread for future reference.

I'll be locking up a Redhawk on Friday 8/12, and counting the days until I can bring it home.

[gunrun45]

I have had some experience with the Redhawk firing system and have worked over a few. There are SOME similarities with the SP101 or GP series, but not many. It operates on an entirely different grip frame and internals. These pieces do a very delicate dance in the Redhawk and they can be very touchy. Mine ended up going back to Ruger twice, each time they said it was fine after replacing small internal parts. But I continued to have light primer strikes with a variety of ammo.

The removing of material that most will do will be on the face of the factory hammer. The top most step acts as a stand off from the frame. The hammer never actually strikes the firing pin. The hammer strikes the transfer bar, which in turn strikes the firing pin. The idea is that the top most step can be a bit tall sometimes so the area is slightly lowered to allow more contact.

Be VERY cautious with removing material from factory original parts. I strongly recommend finding replacements online from the normal distributors or gunbroker and playing with them. This allows you to return to the factory set up parts if all else fails.

The extended firing pin available from Bowen is a great place to start. Bowen also strongly recommends installing their extra power hammer spring. They claim it does not make the trigger pull overly heavy, but it was just to much to be practical for me taste.

Honestly, after all the time and money I spent on mine I would HIGHLY recommend sending it to Bowen. It will be money well spent and guaranteed by them.

I ended up replacing the hammer itself, installing a Bowen pin, extra power hammer spring, replaced the trigger assembly and cylinder after installing cylinder shims. After a while, it became more about my stubborn nature than anything. The hammer dog (small black hook attached to the hammer that interfaces with the trigger) can actually be different lengths from the factory. This in turn allows for a greater or shorter throw of the hammer. Combine this with the firing pin length, headspacing and hammer profile cause the issue. But if you don't go to a smith who really KNOW the Redhawk, they won't account for all of those possibilities.

If you insist on going to someone local, I recommend Mike at the Cartridge Family on Caterpillar. He's a practical man. Larry Mears at Olde West is also good, but he prefers to work on S&W's and Colts. Ruger double actions aren't his favorite and he's very busy these days as well. Anyone else in town is a total crap shoot. I spent a lot of time trolling through the threads in the double action revolver section at

http://rugerforum.net/ruger-double-action/

and

http://rugerforum.net/gunsmithing/

There are actually members there who helped design the Redhawk as well as other Ruger products. There is an amazing wealth of information there.

[Seaweed02]

I have had some experience with the Redhawk firing system and have worked over a few. There are SOME similarities with the SP101 or GP series, but not many. It operates on an entirely different grip frame and internals. These pieces do a very delicate dance in the Redhawk and they can be very touchy. Mine ended up going back to Ruger twice, each time they said it was fine after replacing small internal parts. But I continued to have light primer strikes with a variety of ammo.

The removing of material that most will do will be on the face of the factory hammer. The top most step acts as a stand off from the frame. The hammer never actually strikes the firing pin. The hammer strikes the transfer bar, which in turn strikes the firing pin. The idea is that the top most step can be a bit tall sometimes so the area is slightly lowered to allow more contact.

Be VERY cautious with removing material from factory original parts. I strongly recommend finding replacements online from the normal distributors or gunbroker and playing with them. This allows you to return to the factory set up parts if all else fails.

The extended firing pin available from Bowen is a great place to start. Bowen also strongly recommends installing their extra power hammer spring. They claim it does not make the trigger pull overly heavy, but it was just to much to be practical for me taste.

Honestly, after all the time and money I spent on mine I would HIGHLY recommend sending it to Bowen. It will be money well spent and guaranteed by them.

I ended up replacing the hammer itself, installing a Bowen pin, extra power hammer spring, replaced the trigger assembly and cylinder after installing cylinder shims. After a while, it became more about my stubborn nature than anything. The hammer dog (small black hook attached to the hammer that interfaces with the trigger) can actually be different lengths from the factory. This in turn allows for a greater or shorter throw of the hammer. Combine this with the firing pin length, headspacing and hammer profile cause the issue. But if you don't go to a smith who really KNOW the Redhawk, they won't account for all of those possibilities.

If you insist on going to someone local, I recommend Mike at the Cartridge Family on Caterpillar. He's a practical man. Larry Mears at Olde West is also good, but he prefers to work on S&W's and Colts. Ruger double actions aren't his favorite and he's very busy these days as well. Anyone else in town is a total crap shoot. I spent a lot of time trolling through the threads in the double action revolver section at

http://rugerforum.net/ruger-double-action/

and

http://rugerforum.net/gunsmithing/

There are actually members there who helped design the Redhawk as well as other Ruger products. There is an amazing wealth of information there.

I went on the Bowen website and found that pin, but it says that it will only work for the older Redhawk revolvers and won't work for the newer ones. Since mine is brand new I sent them an email to ask if they happen to make one for the newer ones. No answer yet, but it was only this morning that I sent the email. I found a thread that mentions hammer and trigger shims, so I followed the recommendations and ordered the shim kit for the Redhawk from Triggershims.com

[Seaweed02]

Congrats

Tagging this thread for future reference.

I'll be locking up a Redhawk on Friday 8/12, and counting the days until I can bring it home.

Congrats desertrider, I have already bought mine, but due to the famous California "1 in 30" law, I won't be able to dros mine until Monday the 15th. So you will have yours before I get mine.

[gunrun45]

I should have stated that mine is a 2013 vintage 4 inch 45LC Redhawk.

[desertrider]

Congrats desertrider, I have already bought mine, but due to the famous California "1 in 30" law, I won't be able to dros mine until Monday the 15th. So you will have yours before I get mine.

Thanks, I'm looking forward to it!

I saw your thread on the Match Champion, nice choice. I've got the standard 4" stainless GP100 and absolutely love it, it's a sweet shooter with either 38 or 357 mag.

The Redhawk will be my first 44 mag wheel gun. I picked up a Desert Eagle in 44 mag a little over a month ago and got hooked on the caliber. So much so that the cost of ammo finally pushed mme over the edge into the world of reloading.

Already keeping my eye out for a 44 mag lever action.