Glock 34 Locking Block Pin keeps walking out

[mikeinla]

Glock 34 Locking Block Pin keeps walking out. This has happens a couple times while shooting. It has always worked its way out on the right side. Not sure why this is happening??? It is a stock Glock pin. I have replace it once already and it still comes out while shooting. The frame is not cracked.

[MarikinaMan]

Installing the locking block and pin before the slide stop with spring is supposed to capture the locking block pin via its groove with the stop spring.

By any chance, are you installing the slide stop before the locking block during assembly?

[mikeinla]

Installing the locking block and pin before the slide stop with spring is supposed to capture the locking block pin via its groove with the stop spring.

By any chance, are you installing the slide stop before the locking block during assembly?

No. If you "try" to install locking block pin AFTER the trigger pin you will not be able to because it hit the spring of slide lock

[waawaaweenie]

that pin looks smaller than the diameter of the hole, might be an illusion

[Germ1]

Call Glock.

[Doheny]

Let us know what you find out.

[fritztkatt]

Worn slide stop spring?

Put the locking block pin (upper), put the slide stop, put the trigger pivot (lower) from right to left. Should have to put slight pressure on the slide stop to get the lower pin to slide in. No tools needed for assy. Then check your work by putting gentle pressure with the punch on the lower pin. It shouldn't budge.

Reading fail (my bad): OP has the locking/upper pin walking... OP, are you using the plastic FCG pin from the rear? Does the pin fit in nice and snug?

[ElDub1950]

Is the gun new? old? original owner?

I've seen people damage the hole by pounding out the pin with a hammer and to large of a punch and by pushing the pin out with a phillips screwdriver and grinding out the hole.

[Win231]

The pin looks smaller than the hole. Sometimes that's caused by detail stripping.

[FeuerFrei]

ElDub got this one. I've seen holes fubar'd by owners having problems removing that pin using a heavy percussive device of the swinging type and then discovering the take down instructions for doing it "the right way". Same pin, bigger hole now.
Not saying it is/was the OP. Just saying.

[Oceanbob]

I have to assume you assembled the pistol wrong.

Here is the fix:

1. Remove the top pin (small locking block pin)
2, remove the bottom larger pin. (Trigger pin)
3. Slide out the slide lever (slide stop lever)
4, install the top pin. (Locking block pin)
5. #4 is very important. Notice that pin has a ridge?
You can see that ridge in your photo..
6. Now. Focus. Slide the "slide stop lever" into position and notice
The wire spring bends UNDER the top pin (locking block pin).
7. While you're installing the slide stop, push the larger bottom pin
From right to left, using your thumb to move the slide stop to line up
The hole. Push it flush.
8. The wire spring being UNDER the top locking block pin will prevent
The pin from sliding out because it hits that GROOVE. (Ridge)

You installed the slide stop incorrectly.

Be well
Bob

[Oceanbob]

The pin looks smaller than the hole. Sometimes that's caused by detail stripping.

The Pin is skinny in the middle and correct diameter on the ends.

Bob

[Oceanbob]

OP

This is what the spring under the locking block pin should look like.

Installed correctly the pin will not "walk out" which indicates on your
Gun isn't installed correctly. The Ridge on the pin prevents the pin from sliding out.

Be well
Bob

[SkyHawk]

I could be wrong, but I don't think the slide lock spring is designed to capture the locking block pin. That spring is very weak in the lateral direction. I believe the pin is held in place by interference fit only. If the holes in the frame are too big, then pin will walk.

I would try and peen one end (right) of the locking block pin, so it is slightly out of round or oversized. You could also stipple/knurl the trailing end of the pin (right side)

OP

This is what the spring under the locking block pin should look like.

Installed correctly the pin will not "walk out" which indicates on your
Gun isn't installed correctly. The Ridge on the pin prevents the pin from sliding out.

Be well
Bob

[L-2]

Consider painting the ends of the pin with nail polish (black is available) or model paint. This will thicken-up the pin by a small amount. It won't need much paint to do this. I think I bought the nail polish at Walgreen's or CVS.

What's likely to occur by calling Glock is:
-unless the gun was bought new within a year, it's unlikely Glock will issue a FEDEX label and pay the shipping.
-Glock usually won't even send a locking block pin to a non-armorer.
-shipping a pistol back to Glock from Calif. will be in the $80 range. An FFL might do it for you for less, however.
-if a new frame is needed, then a new serial number is generated and a dealer will typically charge for receiving and re-DRoSing. Minimally, this may be ~$50. Glock could determine it's not a warranty issue and also charge for a new frame. Does anybody know the price if so? I'm guessing in the $200 range. You would/should then send a report form to CA-DoJ to report your original gun was destroyed by Glock. Glock will give you a letter with the new frame stating such.