Customizing my 1911; questions

[Kwikvette]

First off, I blame this forum with all of its beautiful 1911's posted everywhere

Anyway, I have a Sig 1911 Nitron railed that I wish to get worked on and after so many rounds I have a better understanding of what I want.

From what I've read, any parts changed out must be altered to fit said handgun by a gunsmith. Some of the parts I want changed out are purely aesthetic whereas the rest are for function.

I'd like a better looking, stainless hammer. I also want a stainless grip safety but one that isn't as pronounced; current one digs too much into my palm. Last but not least a stainless slide stop, stainless bushing, stainless magazine release, and stainless safety.

My questions here are; is it worth performing these upgrades or should I buy another 1911 that covers what I'm looking for?

What gunsmith do you recommend? I've seen too many hack jobs and would like to use someone with a good rep.

What components do you recommend out of those I want changed out? Does it matter?

And last but not least, will the work that's going to be done require the handgun to be refinished?

She's the one in the middle, between her unfired siblings

[mtenenhaus]

it sounds like the majority of changes you are considering are cosmetic..you could probably do many of those changes yourself with not too much effort particularly if its merely establishing contrasting colors. Experienced refinishers like CCR, Robar etc. could probably make the modifications you're asking for and perhaps modify the grip safety for you as well.

[Sunday]

Don't mess up the pistol by fooling with it . If you want a nicer one buy a Dan Wesson or a Wilson combat quality .

[robert101]

For me, I'm not worried about cosmetic issues such as what you describe. That SIG looks great and is a nice gun. I went the Dan Wesson PM7 route but do appreciate your gun. Bottom line - I would not change it but would shoot it - a lot.

[mjmagee67]

What exactly are you looking for in your guns? To guns are like hot rods they are a platform to customize, improve performance, and make work like you want them too. As far as cosmetics of guns, I have never spent a penny on a gun to make it "look" better. Function over form.

I to own a Sig 1911 Scorpion. It use to be stock, now it has a new trigger, sear, hammer, disconector, sights, full length guide rod, and springs. The trigger is right around 2 lbs and it runs smoother than it did from the factory. It runs like a $3000+ 1911.

As far as doing the work, gunsmithing is not hard, it's not easy either. I've worked with my hands my entire life, from rebuilding car, truck, and motorcycle engines, repairing vehicles of all types, being a bicycle mechanic for a women's pro road team and pro mountain bikers. I love doing stuff myself. Have I made mistakes but I pay attention and work in a way I can always undo it.

[Kwikvette]

it sounds like the majority of changes you are considering are cosmetic..you could probably do many of those changes yourself with not too much effort particularly if its merely establishing contrasting colors. Experienced refinishers like CCR, Robar etc. could probably make the modifications you're asking for and perhaps modify the grip safety for you as well.

You're right; most modifications are mainly aesthetic less the grip safety. I just figured if I had any work done to the pistol, it should all be done at once by the same person.

Don't mess up the pistol by fooling with it . If you want a nicer one buy a Dan Wesson or a Wilson combat quality .

I don't understand your logic but ok.

I plan on owning more 1911's just not yet.

For me, I'm not worried about cosmetic issues such as what you describe. That SIG looks great and is a nice gun. I went the Dan Wesson PM7 route but do appreciate your gun. Bottom line - I would not change it but would shoot it - a lot.

I already shoot it a lot.

Most of us explain to others that he/she should shoot their firearm and become proficient with it before making any changes. I have taken my own advice and know what I want changed after having fired a several thousand rounds.

What exactly are you looking for in your guns? To guns are like hot rods they are a platform to customize, improve performance, and make work like you want them too. As far as cosmetics of guns, I have never spent a penny on a gun to make it "look" better. Function over form.

I to own a Sig 1911 Scorpion. It use to be stock, now it has a new trigger, sear, hammer, disconector, sights, full length guide rod, and springs. The trigger is right around 2 lbs and it runs smoother than it did from the factory. It runs like a $3000+ 1911.

As far as doing the work, gunsmithing is not hard, it's not easy either. I've worked with my hands my entire life, from rebuilding car, truck, and motorcycle engines, repairing vehicles of all types, being a bicycle mechanic for a women's pro road team and pro mountain bikers. I love doing stuff myself. Have I made mistakes but I pay attention and work in a way I can always undo it.

If we're talking cars, I've done plenty of my own work. I have a stroked C4 I've had for over a decade and it'll die with me before I ever give it up. I'll give up the '16 5.0 before the Vette goes

Anyway, I prefer to find a professional gunsmith that'll care for my 1911 as much as I do. I've seen too many hack jobs from so-called pro's even and would hate to have a firearm ruined.

As I stated above, most mods are purely aesthetic. I do want a less aggressive grip-safety but that's about it. This is for the Nitron of course, my scorpions are still brand-new and unfired

[nahpungnome]

You can do aesthetic stuff, but honestly, the series 80 has to go in my opinion. I don't mind the external extractor on mine, but I can feel the series 80 parts when I pull the trigger. Mine has a factory 4lb trigger job and it's not that great (compared to my Baer and WC). Wilson Combat can work on your Sig...just know that any work done from other than Sig (they don't do much anyway), will void your warranty.

From my experience, Sig's warranty is great. I sent mine in twice and it was no questions asked, fixed, and paid completely by Sig....I don't know that I'd want to risk losing that piece of mind. With all the work involved, it'll cost you a pretty penny anyway. Just get another 1911

[Marteen]

I was going to buy the Nitron Rail. It's a solid offering. But I think you should leave it alone. Save your money and buy one that's done the way you want. Everyone says Dan Wesson. They are ok, with that money I would say save a little longer and get a Les Baer. From the Baer you can keep moving up. Short of having a rail on your gun, I think Les Baer is the minimum you should get if you are going to move past the production 1911.

Almost forgot the TRP series are great. They are semi production because there is more hand fitting. And the hand fitting is done where it counts.

[LowThudd]

it sounds like the majority of changes you are considering are cosmetic..you could probably do many of those changes yourself with not too much effort particularly if its merely establishing contrasting colors. Experienced refinishers like CCR, Robar etc. could probably make the modifications you're asking for and perhaps modify the grip safety for you as well.

I disagree. The grip safety is his biggest concern and it takes quite a bit of fitting to make it fit properly. This will take at the very least some very precise hand filing, if not the need of ajig to make the safety follow the frame properly. And that is very likely necessary.

The Bushing also, will require an understanding of how to properly fit to the slide, and then fit to the barrel to properly lock up and release when firing.

Hammer also will likely require fitting, especially on a series 80. I highly doubt the hammer and sear will mate right out of the box, unless a matched set were bough, and that would still need to be adjusted to the grip safetey and the trigger and sear spring. Might even have issues with the thumb safety. Nothing in the fire control group of a 1911 is drop in. Even if it is advertised as such.

Sorry OP, I do not have any experience with any 1911 smiths, so I can't help there. But, if you would like to try it yourself, I suggest reading through Jerry Kuhnhausen's book "The Colt .45 Automatic" first. You can find copies here at the bottom of the page.http://www.klstottlemyer.com/prints-drawings-etc.html

[emulex81]

For minor custom 1911 work like that I would have recommended Alchemy Custom but now they are out of business it seems like people are recommending evolution armory, I have no experience with them but maybe check out this thread.

https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=604881

[Stanze]

That pistol looks great as is. I'd file, sand and refinish the grip safety myself and spend the rest of the money on ammo and training.

I'd rather have a stock pile of ammo after the new ammo law takes effect vs. an extra pretty gun.

ETA: Why would you start off with a tactical light rail equipped 1911 and then want to put all kinds of extra shiny parts on it?

[Kwikvette]

I disagree. The grip safety is his biggest concern and it takes quite a bit of fitting to make it fit properly. This will take at the very least some very precise hand filing, if not the need of ajig to make the safety follow the frame properly. And that is very likely necessary.

The Bushing also, will require an understanding of how to properly fit to the slide, and then fit to the barrel to properly lock up and release when firing.

Hammer also will likely require fitting, especially on a series 80. I highly doubt the hammer and sear will mate right out of the box, unless a matched set were bough, and that would still need to be adjusted to the grip safetey and the trigger and sear spring. Might even have issues with the thumb safety. Nothing in the fire control group of a 1911 is drop in. Even if it is advertised as such.

Sorry OP, I do not have any experience with any 1911 smiths, so I can't help there. But, if you would like to try it yourself, I suggest reading through Jerry Kuhnhausen's book "The Colt .45 Automatic" first. You can find copies here at the bottom of the page.http://www.klstottlemyer.com/prints-drawings-etc.html

You just confirmed what I've read elsewhere.

I don't plan on doing the "fitting" myself for anything and I'm happy to pay a professional to do it. None of the mentioned parts are a drop-in mod, so I'd like to get things done the right way.

That pistol looks great as is. I'd file, sand and refinish the grip safety myself and spend the rest of the money on ammo and training.

I'd rather have a stock pile of ammo after the new ammo law takes effect vs. an extra pretty gun.

ETA: Why would you start off with a tactical light rail equipped 1911 and then want to put all kinds of extra shiny parts on it?

Thanks, but I cringe at the thought of sanding anything down on my pistol.

I've also been stockpiling ammo before the bill was passed; I can still afford more ammo and getting work done on my firearms.

The shiny parts add contrast, but I guess I should've just bought a Sig Nightmare then right?

[AKexpat]

I'm an old guy. I still cannot understand why some of you folks insist upon buying high-buck pistols when many of you have little of no understanding about the mechanics and intrinsics of the Colt (or clones) 1911 .45 pistol, and really don't need a high end pistol to start with.

IMNSHO, I would buy a Rock and download a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's excellent treatise on the Colt 1911 .45 Auto (it is available in .pdf form for anyone).

The RIA may (and probably does) contain some MIM parts. Not a problem for someone who is willing to LEARN along with following Kuhnhausen's explicit instructions, and just find parts after your experimentation from whatever vendor you choose.

Be aware that the 1911 parts you may find are probably not plug and play.

Whether you buy from Numrich, Sarco, or any of the high end folks, be prepared for some fitting and be aware that there are some real anomalies out there.

I have an AMT Hardballer .45 (much modified) and an Olympic Arms frame-up build Ciener .22 top end that could not have been done without Mr. Kuhnhausen's knowledge.

Regards,

Jim

[mtenenhaus]

Bruce Gray (grayguns.com) is absolutely amazing.....brilliant, friendly, honest and incredibly nice. Give him a call

[_TomT_]

There is a lot of good Gunsmiths here locally in California. Jim Hoag is one of them, I recall him saying that he doesn't work on Sigs however. Another good GS is Alan Tanaka, both of these men will fine tune your trigger to perfection as well as fit whatever parts you need. Hoag can only do bluing and cerakote IIRC, while Tanaka does DLC/Birdsong Black-T.

There's also mail away options like:

Severns Customs
Harrison Customs
Fusion

All of those places are good to go IMHO. Expect a 6+ month wait time for all works from any one of these fine Gunsmiths, trust me, its worth it.

PS: either that or just sell everything you own and get a Springy HRT.