Kimber 1911 Aluminum frame vs stainless steel

[keith1911]

The gouges on mine are below the feed ramp, not on it, and I haven't found that to be a functional problem at all.
It is caused my mags with metal followers.

I haven't had any functioning problems from it either.

[Citadelgrad87]

I've heard but never seen that hollow points can be rough on the feed Ramps of aluminum framed 1911s. My dad bought a kimber with an al frame and I checked the issue out online.

[stormvet]

An alloy framed 1911 is not a good choose for a high round count, high use/abuse training gun. A steel frame is much better for that, the only advantage of a alloy gun is lighter wieght for carry. Also with the alloy guns, timely recoil spring replacement is crucial to frame life.
I've owned a alloy framed Kimber CDP pro for over 15 years, it has been a great gun. But I've kept the round count low, it only has 6200 rounds fired.
Hollow points do not damage the feed ramp(unless you have some crazy type of HP, I've never seen)it is the mag follower. The metal with a sharp point on the end will dig into the alloy just beneath the feed ramp. CMC makes rounded shorter followers specifically for alloy framed guns and of course plastic followers and modified followers like Tripp can also be used.

[stilixdax1]

I'm not much for concealed carry. The 1911 is more for home defense and range shooting. I love the input and I am leaning more towards the stainless steel frame!

[wpage]

Melting points on aluminum are significantly lower then steel. Therefore If running high steel barrel temps on the frame by heavy continuous running could cause issues. Or other extreme abuse.

[BucDan]

So what's the average round count for a AL frame before it cracks? I have an AL frame, but only put about 400 rounds through it within the past 6 months...



Starting to consider getting a stainless frame now.

[stormvet]

So what's the average round count for a AL frame before it cracks? I have an AL frame, but only put about 400 rounds through it within the past 6 months...



Starting to consider getting a stainless frame now.

There is no real average, with proper spring replacement and responsible use a alloy frame can last a lifetime. Failure to replace the recoil spring when needed, extended use of + P and defense loads can shorten the life span. But really just take care of the gun and don't worry about it and buy a steel gun for all your heavy range training.

[RayB]

^RayB pictures of the cracked frames or paperwork stating they fixed the frame? Not saying your lying but its the web, people post fudge all the time. There must be a paper trail after all them frames being replaced.

[IMG][/IMG]

All I could dig up is one right now. I'll have to ask the Warden if she knows where the others are when she gets home, if you really want to see them all.

Main spring was replaced every 3K rounds, cleaned & lubricated religiously. All I was shooting back then was 230 grn Winchester White Box till I started reloading. As I stated this gun was used extensively in training. It was shot a lot, fast...

I've carried this gun for years but is working its way out of my permit once my modification comes in.

[DArBad]

I prefer a steel framed/slide 1911s for their known durability and longevity.

[SLO1911Fan]

Melting points on aluminum are significantly lower then steel. Therefore If running high steel barrel temps on the frame by heavy continuous running could cause issues. Or other extreme abuse.

Are you running a full auto 1911 or something? You couldn't shoot fast enough to generate enough heat to affect the aluminum.

[Mr.Caketown]

Just buy a TRP in SS and let it be done

[Bill Steele]

Hey everyone! I am looking into the Kimber Tactical Custom II. Besides the gun being lighter are there additional pro and cons of having an aluminum frame gun vs stainless steel? Also I welcome all opinions as to different handguns you guys think are better than a kimber 1911!

I think most would agree a steel framed gun will outlast an aluminum one. On the other hand, you will find a fair number of detractors on the stainless steel front as many people find they demand more attention when it comes to maintenance, particularly lube. You probably wouldn't get any arguments that carbon steel framed guns seem to be the most durable.

Having said all the above, how much durability you require is probably a more salient question. If you will be measuring your round counts in tens of thousands, carbon steel is likely your best choice. On the other hand, when you get up into those kinds of numbers, the cost of the guns become less important as you are spending a lot on your shooting in general.

I guess the best advice is get what you want.

[bubbapug1]

Are you running a full auto 1911 or something? You couldn't shoot fast enough to generate enough heat to affect the aluminum.

Yes it's a full auto 1911 with 500 round chip McCormick mags and ++p apit depleted uranium HP Russian ammo.

Melting a frame.

How much dope do you need to smoke to think that kind of stuff up??

[SLO1911Fan]

Yes it's a full auto 1911 with 500 round chip McCormick mags and ++p apit depleted uranium HP Russian ammo.

Melting a frame.

How much dope do you need to smoke to think that kind of stuff up??

Not quite sure on that last part, but it would have to be a decent amount.

I know a company that created an autosear for the 1911, but I can't imagine trying to reload it fast enough to heat up.

[myk]

The Stainless TLE/RL II is made out of stainless (which I also have).

The TLE/RL II is steel.

Ah. What a relief...