CZ SP-01 conversion to SA only?

[bsumoba]

Anyone prefer to keep their CZ in a SAO configuration?

I've read that CGW's SA conversion and trigger job makes it a 2lb 14oz SA, 1mm reset. That is incredible for a range gun.

[Mr. Patis]

I have a SAO cgw 75b...my favorite gun out of all my cgw CZs

[static2126]

It is a great gun for the range.

[JDMIS300]

I don't shoot my SP01 much because of the DA/SA trigger. I find my 75B SAO is much more enjoyable to shoot. I always appreciated the 75 SA having a 1911 type layout as far as controls go. If you shoot a lot of 1911's and HiPowers, the transition is easy to a SA CZ.

[JDMIS300]

If you want to discover the feel of a CZ with a trigger as light as you mentioned, you can check out a tactical sport. A TS will have a 2.5-3 lb trigger and short reset. Although be prepared the TS has a huge handle. Standard mags hold 20 rounds of 9mm if that puts a picture in your mind of how large he handle is.

I thought I read somewhere that the TS handle is very close in size to the 97 handle.

[Tok36]

Anyone prefer to keep their CZ in a SAO configuration?

I've read that CGW's SA conversion and trigger job makes it a 2lb 14oz SA, 1mm reset. That is incredible for a range gun.

One can get real close to the benefits of an SA config in a DA/SA configuration with the rite tuning and parts. So the reset distance and trigger weight you mentioned are obtainable in DA/SA.

That being said, it is easier and cheaper to accomplish when set up as SAO. The absence of a DA allows the user or gunsmith to adjust out all of the pre-travel trough the pre-travel set screw above the face of the trigger. Removing the pre-travle from the SA of a DA/SA is more complicated but still achievable.

I prefer a DA/SA setup when it is an option. I have not found that SAO offers me much over a well tuned DA/SA.

BTW what the heck is a "Gun handle"

[jimmykan]

Anyone prefer to keep their CZ in a SAO configuration?

I've read that CGW's SA conversion and trigger job makes it a 2lb 14oz SA, 1mm reset. That is incredible for a range gun.

I have a CZ 75B SA in 9mm.

I worked on the factory sear and hammer myself, and also installed a CGW SRS-2 kit.

The SRS-2 kit really reduces the travel needed to reset the trigger, but not to 1mm.

Maybe if you remove the firing pin block safety...

[trigger945]

CZ SP01 in SAO with CGW parts is really nice - I shot one. I still prefer SA/DA though, with CGW parts, of course, which I have The SA trigger on mine is lighter than what you quoted, and the reset is short. So, to Tok36's point, it is achievable indeed

[FUBAR]

One can get real close to the benefits of an SA config in a DA/SA configuration with the rite tuning and parts. So the reset distance and trigger weight you mentioned are obtainable in DA/SA.

That being said, it is easier and cheaper to accomplish when set up as SAO. The absence of a DA allows the user or gunsmith to adjust out all of the pre-travel trough the pre-travel set screw above the face of the trigger. Removing the pre-travle from the SA of a DA/SA is more complicated but still achievable.

I prefer a DA/SA setup when it is an option. I have not found that SAO offers me much over a well tuned DA/SA.

BTW what the heck is a "Gun handle"

You know...the handle on the gun...

[WRXKid]

I have a CZ 75B SA in 9mm.

I worked on the factory sear and hammer myself, and also installed a CGW SRS-2 kit.

The SRS-2 kit really reduces the travel needed to reset the trigger, but not to 1mm.

Maybe if you remove the firing pin block safety...

Is this something I can do myself too? I am fairly handy with tools and really would rather work on the gun myself. I currently run a bone stock 75b SAO.

[TATER313]

I have a SP01 and had it SAO only very nice but I wanted it to be double action, so I changed it back. In DA/SA it is very impressive.
Video of DA?SA: https://youtu.be/2cAkVLX3PeQ

Video of SAO:https://youtu.be/nNAZMfdAuKM

[trigger945]

OP - I will leave this link for you. This is why I prefer my SA/DA SP01 vs SAO. Probably the only thing I would want is a flat trigger, which SAO has. Not sure why SA/DA triggers have to be curved.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?p=15632845#post15632845

[Litespeeds]

As a range and target gun, the single action CGW CZ's are amazing. Love my 97BE Copperhead.

[SouperMan]

Is this something I can do myself too? I am fairly handy with tools and really would rather work on the gun myself. I currently run a bone stock 75b SAO.

It looks intimidating at first, but take your time and you can do it. Cajun Gun Works sells the complete parts kit and they provide excellent customer service. I've done the Pro Package with standby assistance from another friend who did it before but didn't really need any help at all.

[jimmykan]

Is this something I can do myself too? I am fairly handy with tools and really would rather work on the gun myself. I currently run a bone stock 75b SAO.

Yes, the CGW SRS-2 kit can be installed with just some pin punches and some pointy tweezers to help you move the springs and parts into place. You don't need to buy the T2 disconnector since your SAO doesn't have a disconnector.

To work on the factory hammer and sear:

I used a flat sharpening stone (320 grit) to create a secondary angle on the tip of the sear, similar to what is done for 1911 trigger jobs:



I used a piece of steel shim stock between the sear and stone to hold the sear against the stone. See Gunception - 1911 Trigger Job for the method. I did not alter the sear's primary angle at all, so a jig to stone the primary angle, as shown in the how-to, is not needed.

Then I shortened the hammer hooks by a few thousandths using the same stone.

I did this incrementally, with the goal of reducing the amount of sear-hammer engagement bit-by-bit until the trigger pull only causes the hammer to move backwards slightly before breaking.

If the engagement surfaces are reduced too much, the gun could become unsafe or unreliable (gun discharges when dropped, hammer follow, etc.) So I bought a spare hammer and sear in case I needed to scrap the parts and start over .

For the CZ, it would look like this:


When I was satisfied with the trigger break, I case hardened the hammer and sear using Cherry Red compound and a blow torch.

The idea is to infuse some of the carbon atoms into the surface of the part to improve its wear resistance.
Cherry Red Surface Hardening Compound 1 lb

If you don't have Cherry Red on hand, you can case-harden the parts by heating each part to a cherry red color, then quenching in conventional motor oil. Repeat one more heat-quench cycle.