A Tula rant. (.357)

[gunsandrockets]

Maybe spraying the cylinder chambers with lubricant before each loading? might ease extraction after firing.

In any case thanks for the warning about that brand of .357 magnum.

[saxman]

I get the same behavior in my rhino

[dozer wright]

I have the same problem with some of Underwoods loads in my 44 mag Alaskan . No idea why the hotter /heavier loads just stick.I have to tap the ejection rod pretty good to clear the Cyclinder . New gun I'm guessing is the issue .

[Kean]

Maybe spraying the cylinder chambers with lubricant before each loading? might ease extraction after firing.

In any case thanks for the warning about that brand of .357 magnum.

Didn't work in my case. I didn't get through half a box of their .357 cartridges before a couple of them got really stuck. This was in a Ruger Blackhawk. They were so jammed in there that I couldn't get enough leverage with the ejector rod to pop them out. .....had to pull the cylinder to tap them out with a cleaning rod and the butt of my multi-tool.

Brass will usually just plop out at the beginning of the day but will require the use of the ejector after a few cylinders of rounds have been fired (as expected). .....the Tula ammo was a first for this kind of problem (and last).

[alpha_romeo_XV]

Many of us have used Tula in other calibers successfully but, this has left a seriously bad taste in my mouth I won't soon forget...

I'm curious what gun/caliber you did have success with steel cased ammo?
There was a thread in the semi-auto rifle subform about a week ago discussing steel cased for AR15s, and someone replied "if your gun won't shoot steel its broken". However, I go by the saying " I wouldn't shoot steel in your gun let alone mine".

I know it isn't possible for everyone, but I have to make the pitch for reloading. I can reload 357 for just 2 cents more/rnd than 38 spcl. Just double the amount/cost of the powder. Case is reusable many times, bullet and primer cost are equal. I just don't use unjacketed or unplated bullets for full magnum loads to avoid leading up the barrel.

[FeuerFrei]

did you shoot the .38 rounds first then .357's. That causes problems.

That's where problems with sticky cases start.
Lead build up from the 38's can cause 357 cases to stick like glue specially when the user may run more 38's than 357's and NOT clean ALL of the lead out of the cylinders after a firing session.
Besides, we mostly shoot 38's in our 357's for cheaper target practice.

OP, Tula will stand behind their ammo. Contact their CS for resolution if you really think it's the ammo.

[alpha_romeo_XV]

And another reason to reload - you can use 357 mag cases to load your "38" loads and that way have the same/longer length cases so you don't get that ring of crud in the cylinder from the shorter case when shooting both the same day.
I have mixed loads in the same cylinder with no problems when teaching a new shooter to see if they were anticipating magnum recoil when pulling the trigger and pushing the barrel down.

[floogy]

That's where problems with sticky cases start.
Lead build up from the 38's can cause 357 cases to stick like glue specially when the user may run more 38's than 357's and NOT clean ALL of the lead out of the cylinders after a firing session.
Besides, we mostly shoot 38's in our 357's for cheaper target practice.

OP, Tula will stand behind their ammo. Contact their CS for resolution if you really think it's the ammo.

Yep. It happens even with brass cases. The fouling from the 38s gets them stuck in there pretty good. I'm sure steel is that much worse. I don't think shooting steel case out of revolvers is a great idea. I'm not a prima donna that shuns steel case ammo, but it seems like it causes more problems than it's worth in this case. I would shoot steel cased out of Glocks, AKs, 5.56 chambered rifles etc. Not 1911s, 223 chambered rifles or others that have tighter chambers.

[splithoof]

I've never shot steel cased ammo. The minimal savings is not worth it to me.

Not only have I shot it, but some of it I reload. 45 & .308 with Boxer primers has worked well, but figure that after one or two loadings it's done.
I also use Tula primers, which in rifles have given excellent accuracy, and have never had a single misfire.

[MajorSideburns]

this will happen with pretty much any ammo brand, in revolvers you want to shoot longer cased cartridges before the shorter ones if you plan on mixing them at the range. the shorter 38s are fouling up your cylinders and making the tolerances tighter for the longer 357s

[Kean]

In my case, I was simply curious when I tried the Tula ammo. It really wasn't about saving a buck. I also never had this happen with any brass cartridges I have shot through my Blackhawk (even while alternating .38 to .357. Sure, they would get sticky as more rounds were fired but never to the point that I had to disassemble the weapon. In fact, we continued to shoot brass ammo the rest of the session without incident.

[TAS]

I had a similar issue with .30 carbine. I had bought the Herter's brand that were steel case and though they cycled through my M1 just fine, the cases would get stuck in my Blackhawk after firing. Went back to brass case ammo in the revolver and no further issues. So much for saving a couple of bucks.

[slomofo]

I sometimes shoot Tula and Wolf, but you can't go in with high expectations. I don't speak Russian, but if someone were to tell me the Russian word for sh*t was Tula or Wolf, surprised is the last thing I'd be.




*****Wolf .22LR is the only ammo of the two brands that actually outperforms other brands.

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