Kinda sorta general question about replacing hammers

[Ant45]

If you replace a hammer on a semi and go with a rounded one (1911, BHP for example) do you have to also replace any of the springs as well? I'm guessing if the replacement hammer is lighter than the one in the pistol it might need additional tweaking.

[P5Ret]

I never have had to, on either a semi or a revolver. The weight difference is usually very small, and has not affected performance on the 1911's I changed out or the revolver's that I put factory bobbed hammer's on.

[ojisan]

Steel hammer swaps do not need spring changes.

A titanium hammer could possibly need a stronger hammer spring if you were using reduced power springs already.

[Ant45]

Thanks for the responses.

Been thinking of putting a rounded hammer on my BHP. It was tuned and has the wide trigger from work I had done to it from 25 years ago and is silky smooth but for some reason I'm getting the urge for a rounded hammer. No other reason than it looks cool. I know I am not alone here with these urges

[Snoopy47]

Remember that the hammer on the likes of a BHP and 1911 have a fitting and engagements with the sear.

Your trigger is going to be changed dramatically, and I highly doubt for the better.

I would suggest buying an entire fire control group as a kit if you can.

like below:

http://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/trigger-group-parts/hammer-parts/hammer-sear-sets/browning-hi-power-hammer-sear-spring-set-prod20906.aspx

[Ant45]

Hmm, I like the feel and pull as it is and wouldn't want to lose that.

Even with the kit do you think I would be sacrificing anything?

[Mossy Man]

Serious question: what kind of gun and why do you want a rounded hammer?
Unless its a collector, have you considered bobbing it instead?

[Ant45]

Serious question: what kind of gun and why do you want a rounded hammer?
Unless its a collector, have you considered bobbing it instead?

Browning Hi Power and I just like the looks of a rounded hammer like in the pic.
Occasionally I get these bugs up my rear to mod something so this is my latest.

It's not a collector, I've had it though for roughly 25 years and it's a great shooter so maybe messing with it might not a good idea.

Now about bobbing the hammer that would be just having part of it cut off? (I had to ask)

[Mossy Man]

I missed your earlierpost.

Lots of guys with 1911sbob thier hammers if they experience hammer bite but dont want to change internals.

And yes bobbing is just cutting and reshaping. Google 1911 bobbed hammer

[Ant45]

I missed your earlierpost.

Lots of guys with 1911sbob thier hammers if they experience hammer bite but dont want to change internals.

And yes bobbing is just cutting and reshaping. Google 1911 bobbed hammer

Been doing that since your post, thanks for the idea.

[dfletcher]

Browning Hi Power and I just like the looks of a rounded hammer like in the pic.
Occasionally I get these bugs up my rear to mod something so this is my latest.

It's not a collector, I've had it though for roughly 25 years and it's a great shooter so maybe messing with it might not a good idea.

Now about bobbing the hammer that would be just having part of it cut off? (I had to ask)

Switching hammers shouldn't require a change of mainsprings. I agree the rounded hammer looks better.

A few years back I picked up a 1970s made BHP in excellent condition, it was only $495.00, came with the original zipped bag and paperwork. And the hammer followed the slide because someone fiddled with the hammer. I've done lots of 1911s and figured "how bad could it be ....?" It wasn't that bad, but it was more work than any 1911.

Chances are the sear notch in the hammer will not be in exactly the same spot nor exactly mate with the existing sear exactly as did the previous hammer. That will cause the sear to be in a slightly different position relative to the thumb safety. The stud on the thumb safety rests up against a stud on the inside (rearward) lower left edge of the sear. Like the 1911, if it's not fitted you'll get a little travel on safe when you press the trigger, maybe enough for the hammer to drop. Unlike 1911 thumb safeties, of which there's alot to choose from and they have plenty of "meat" to remove and fit, the few BHP safeties I've seen don't have much. The one by C & S came up way short. After trying a few sears I had a spot of weld dropped on to the stud on the thumb safety and fitted it.

It was a bit of a learning experience and maybe I just had lousy luck. The C & S slide is said by others to have plenty of metal on it for fitting, maybe the hammer you get will work just fine. Worst thing that happens is it doesn't fit, you go back to the old hammer & learned how to take the gun apart.

As an aside, disassembly and reassembly (especially reassembly) is kind of a pain. The hammer and sear have to be held under tension, hammer to the rear, and the retaining pin slid in. That's three hands. Trick I learned is to loop a wire over the hammer spur, hold it at full cock by hooking the other end into the open magwell.

[bohoki]

certain hammers may need a different grip safety on the 1911

[Ant45]

Switching hammers shouldn't require a change of mainsprings. I agree the rounded hammer looks better.

A few years back I picked up a 1970s made BHP in excellent condition, it was only $495.00, came with the original zipped bag and paperwork. And the hammer followed the slide because someone fiddled with the hammer. I've done lots of 1911s and figured "how bad could it be ....?" It wasn't that bad, but it was more work than any 1911.

Chances are the sear notch in the hammer will not be in exactly the same spot nor exactly mate with the existing sear exactly as did the previous hammer. That will cause the sear to be in a slightly different position relative to the thumb safety. The stud on the thumb safety rests up against a stud on the inside (rearward) lower left edge of the sear. Like the 1911, if it's not fitted you'll get a little travel on safe when you press the trigger, maybe enough for the hammer to drop. Unlike 1911 thumb safeties, of which there's alot to choose from and they have plenty of "meat" to remove and fit, the few BHP safeties I've seen don't have much. The one by C & S came up way short. After trying a few sears I had a spot of weld dropped on to the stud on the thumb safety and fitted it.

It was a bit of a learning experience and maybe I just had lousy luck. The C & S slide is said by others to have plenty of metal on it for fitting, maybe the hammer you get will work just fine. Worst thing that happens is it doesn't fit, you go back to the old hammer & learned how to take the gun apart.

As an aside, disassembly and reassembly (especially reassembly) is kind of a pain. The hammer and sear have to be held under tension, hammer to the rear, and the retaining pin slid in. That's three hands. Trick I learned is to loop a wire over the hammer spur, hold it at full cock by hooking the other end into the open magwell.

Thanks!