CZ 75 Action Timing

[onelonehorseman]

Thanks OP and well done.

[himurax13]

Nicely done OP. This illustrates the importance of smoothening out all of the areas where movement occurs.

[whipkiller]

That's very cool, thanks for posting.

Since we have nicely color coded parts in the illustration, would anyone be willing to list the parts with the corresponding color?

I think it might be helpful for those of us who are still too scared to turn a perfectly good gun into a little pile of springs, pins, pieces and parts?

1) Trigger - Yellow
2)Trigger Bar - Light Blue

How'm I doin' so far?

[guest1]

That's very cool, thanks for posting.

Since we have nicely color coded parts in the illustration, would anyone be willing to list the parts with the corresponding color?

I think it might be helpful for those of us who are still too scared to turn a perfectly good gun into a little pile of springs, pins, pieces and parts?

1) Trigger - Yellow
2)Trigger Bar - Light Blue

How'm I doin' so far?

This might clear a few things

[romukom]

That's very cool, thanks for posting.

Since we have nicely color coded parts in the illustration, would anyone be willing to list the parts with the corresponding color?

I think it might be helpful for those of us who are still too scared to turn a perfectly good gun into a little pile of springs, pins, pieces and parts?

1) Trigger - Yellow
2)Trigger Bar - Light Blue

How'm I doin' so far?

Yes, the parts diagram helps a lot. Your suggestion of color coded parts should not be too hard to incorporate. I just have to make sure that will not be too cluttered. Recently, the idea of making a version 2 (Well most likely version 8 if you count the little corrections ) got into my head. I am thinking in adding a bit more detail but I am afraid that will get too cluttered since the main focus is the trigger group part interaction. We shall see.... I just need to get inspired again

[whipkiller]

Yes, the parts diagram helps a lot. Your suggestion of color coded parts should not be too hard to incorporate. I just have to make sure that will not be too cluttered. Recently, the idea of making a version 2 (Well most likely version 8 if you count the little corrections ) got into my head. I am thinking in adding a bit more detail but I am afraid that will get too cluttered since the main focus is the trigger group part interaction. We shall see.... I just need to get inspired again

I totally missed the line in your OP where you said you made this...

Dude, that's very cool!

By any chance, can you make one that shows what happens inside my wife's head when I tell her something? I'd gladly pay for that one.

[Ant45]

Great job and thanks for posting it.

[romukom]

I totally missed the line in your OP where you said you made this...

Dude, that's very cool!

By any chance, can you make one that shows what happens inside my wife's head when I tell her something? I'd gladly pay for that one.

LOL.... Geeeez. I wish that I could do that. I will be RICH!!!! Unfortunately there are time that I can't figure out mine either. You know, when wife tells you something that they were already thinking and expect you to know that they were thinking/talking.

[Tok36]

That's very cool, thanks for posting.

Since we have nicely color coded parts in the illustration, would anyone be willing to list the parts with the corresponding color?

I think it might be helpful for those of us who are still too scared to turn a perfectly good gun into a little pile of springs, pins, pieces and parts?

1) Trigger - Yellow
2)Trigger Bar - Light Blue

How'm I doin' so far?

From left to right

Yellow - Trigger
Blue - Trigger Bar
Green - Disconnector
Red - Sear
Blue2 - Firing pin block lifter arm
Yellow2 - Hammer
Pink - Main Spring Strut
Dark Blue - Hammer/Main Spring

[CAGLS]

I've been meaning to get back and reply that the SAO models do not have the disconnector which without the FPB and FP lifter arm achieves the shortest reset. OP could you revise the SAO action w/o the disconnector and blow back of the slide to reset and an SAO trigger?

awesome. thanks op.

btw is there a disconnector in the SAO models?

[1911whore]

This is why action work on CZ is so expensive...lots of interfacing/working parts and surfaces to address, lots of elbow grease, and also when the connector shoulders or hammer hooks are worked on, timing is thrown off and more surfaces need attention to correct the whole so it all works correctly. plus surface hardening is hard to work through and reapply.

[romukom]

I've been meaning to get back and reply that the SAO models do not have the disconnector which without the FPB and FP lifter arm achieves the shortest reset. OP could you revise the SAO action w/o the disconnector and blow back of the slide to reset and an SAO trigger?

CALGS,
Sure! I can do that. It should be straight forward. I will create another gif for the 75 SA version. I already have found a picture of a SAO trigger; creating a model should be easy. Last night I started to create a version 2 with some small additions and to correct some "giggle" effects from miss alignment. By the way, I will change the tittle from SA only to SA. The first two files was meant to show the standard 75B as when you dry fire. I believe that was the confusion. So stay tuned B

[Caseless]

This is why action work on CZ is so expensive...lots of interfacing/working parts and surfaces to address, lots of elbow grease, and also when the connector shoulders or hammer hooks are worked on, timing is thrown off and more surfaces need attention to correct the whole so it all works correctly. plus surface hardening is hard to work through and reapply.

In other words, play it safe by ordering CGW hammer kits since there's no need to reinvent the wheel.

[himurax13]

This is why action work on CZ is so expensive...lots of interfacing/working parts and surfaces to address, lots of elbow grease, and also when the connector shoulders or hammer hooks are worked on, timing is thrown off and more surfaces need attention to correct the whole so it all works correctly. plus surface hardening is hard to work through and reapply.

What's your method for case hardening?

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

[romukom]

Updated version posted in the first post.

As you can see, I added a bit more details and some bit more realistic look.

Also per CALGS request, I added the 75B SA model going through the cycle. This one was a bit harder to deal with because no matter what I did I could not get SA to reset.

I modified the shape of the trigger bar humps, the sear. Another variable was the SAO trigger. After working for about 3 hours it did occurred to me to move the notch in the slide 2 or 3 mm towards the back. That one fixed the issue.

As you can see, I was being a virtual gunsmith.
Enjoy