is .357mag J frame worth it?

[Newb]

Hey guys, some opinions would be appreciated. As a backup gun, I carry a .38+p S&W j frame revolver when hunting. I was considering going to a M&P340 over my 642 just to have the option of carrying .357mag in it. Will a .357 make much difference coming out of 1.875 barrel compared to a .38+p? I know the recoil is not fun, but I don't plan on shooting tons of rounds through it, and I would get a hogue tamer grip as well. Thanks for any input.

[[Variable]]

357 is 'slow burning' so it takes a longer barrel to get the full oomph. HOWEVER, Buffalo Bore makes 357 low-flash, low-recoil for short barreled firearms and they make fantastic ammo. I say go for it and look into that.

https://www.buffalobore.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=21

[ILVSMOG]

I tried shooting Hornady .357 defense loads out of my 340pd. It wasn't pretty. In addition to being extremely uncomfortable and difficult to control, the last 2 rounds had a significant amount of bullet jump. It wasn't enough to lock the cylinder up, but it was still worrisome. After that experiment, I've stuck to 130gr Speer Gold Dots in .38 +p

[ChuckDizzle]

No, barrel length is critical to making the .357 magnum a .357 magnum if you catch my drift.

Why would you need a back-up gun when hunting and what would you be expecting/hoping it would do for you? I'm not sure why you have a J-frame for this role.

[Newb]

Reason is because my 642 is my primary ccw, a M&P340 could fit the role of the ccw with .38+p and .357mag in it for back hunting/hiking in the woods gun.

[ChuckDizzle]

Yeah, I think you might just be asking too much from a single tool. I was thinking by the term "back up gun" for hunting you were thinking of something you cold use to reasonably take game if there was some kind of problem with your rifle. If you are looking to defend yourself from a predator that may be attracted and competing for your kill I would say either hit it with bear spray, or concede the free meal.

[sixoclockhold]

No matter all the powder burn or not, you will get at least a couple hundred FTS more from the .357 = more penetration

Whether the recoil is worth it or not depends on practice.

[Horrendo Revolver]

Too much recoil for me.

[spitter3]

Well if you look at ballistics by the inch not worth it.

http://www.ballisticsbytheinch.com/38special.html#RW

The real world test on your 642 with 38spl+p is about the same as there theoretical 357 with the same barrel lenth.

[Carcassonne]

Well if you look at ballistics by the inch not worth it.

http://www.ballisticsbytheinch.com/38special.html#RW

The real world test on your 642 with 38spl+p is about the same as there theoretical 357 with the same barrel length.

Why do you say that? that website measures barrel length from the base of the cartridge. Revolver barrel length is measured from the end of the cylinder. If you use those charts, you will have to add approximately 1.600" to the barrel length to make up for the length of the cylinder. Then you will get a good idea of the velocity. For a 125 grain projectile, a 2" 38 special will go under 900 fps, and a 2" 357 mag will go over 1200 fps.




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[beretta929mm]

Minimum barrel length to get the benefit of .357 magnum is 6", otherwise you are just creating fireballs.

[Ronin2]

Why do you say that? that website measures barrel length from the base of the cartridge. Revolver barrel length is measured from the end of the cylinder. If you use those charts, you will have to add approximately 1.600" to the barrel length to make up for the length of the cylinder. Then you will get a good idea of the velocity. For a 125 grain projectile, a 2" 38 special will go under 900 fps, and a 2" 357 mag will go over 1200 fps.




.

Looks like the minimum barrel length to get decent muzzle energy is 4".

[Ronin2]

Why do you say that? that website measures barrel length from the base of the cartridge. Revolver barrel length is measured from the end of the cylinder. If you use those charts, you will have to add approximately 1.600" to the barrel length to make up for the length of the cylinder. Then you will get a good idea of the velocity. For a 125 grain projectile, a 2" 38 special will go under 900 fps, and a 2" 357 mag will go over 1200 fps.




.

Looks like the minimum barrel length to get decent muzzle energy is 4". My local "camp/outdoors/hiking/backpacking/riding" gun is a S&W model 28 in .357 mag. My backup for hunting and the high sierra's when on horseback is a S&W model 629 in .44 mag to match the Winchester model 94 in 44 mag. in the scabbard on my horse.

[gun toting monkeyboy]

The added recoil and muzzle blast just doesn't get you enough real-world performance to make it worthwhile. I would go with either P+ rounds, or, if possible, rounds specifically loaded for short-barreled revolvers. I know it isn't as sexy as a .357 Magnum, but you would likely get better performance out of a bullet that is designed to work out of a shorter barrel, and the powder load to go with it.

-Mb

[spitter3]

Why do you say that? that website measures barrel length from the base of the cartridge. Revolver barrel length is measured from the end of the cylinder. If you use those charts, you will have to add approximately 1.600" to the barrel length to make up for the length of the cylinder. Then you will get a good idea of the velocity. For a 125 grain projectile, a 2" 38 special will go under 900 fps, and a 2" 357 mag will go over 1200 fps.




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Yep my mistake