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  • highintel
    Senior Member
    • Jan 2013
    • 1026

    1911 frame finish options

    Hi guys, I am trying to figure out the best coating/finish for a steel 1911 frame. Locally I have options between cerakote, parkerizing, anodizing and a couple others. I am wondering how to get that nice slick semi gloss finish you see on a lot of Wilson 1911s. What are the benefits of parkerizing? Is bluing a better finish? I want to leave cerakoting as a last resort option. Thanks guys.

  • #2
    keenkeen
    Calguns Addict
    • May 2011
    • 6782

    Scotchbrite is the new hot finish for custom high end 1911s owned by true connoisseurs.
    "But far more numerous was the herd of such, Who think too little and who talk too much." -John Dryden

    Comment

    • #3
      skosh69
      Veteran Member
      • Aug 2011
      • 4290

      I vote for Hard Chrome!!! I know you didn't list it, but that's my fave.

      Originally posted by keenkeen
      Scotchbrite is the new hot finish for custom high end 1911s owned by true connoisseurs.
      Buwahahahahaha

      He'll be forever known around CG's for that

      Comment

      • #4
        Rhyyke
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2008
        • 2128

        Originally posted by keenkeen
        Scotchbrite is the new hot finish for custom high end 1911s owned by true connoisseurs.
        Don't forget the clearcoat to make it really shine!

        Comment

        • #5
          HibikiR
          Senior Member
          • May 2014
          • 2417

          ^Refering to this:http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s....php?t=1046377

          There are a number of places that can do bluing, Wilson Combat included.

          However:
          -Bluing looks great, but isn't as durable as Parkerizing.
          -Both require oil for rust protection, but Parkerizing creates better pores for holding oil.
          -Other finishes (Cerakote, Roguard, Armor-Tuff) are generally superior in protection

          If you like Wilson Combat's work, just ask them what they use for any of their 1911s that catch your eye.
          Last edited by HibikiR; 03-13-2015, 4:59 PM.

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          • #6
            highintel
            Senior Member
            • Jan 2013
            • 1026

            Cerakote would be stronger than parkerizing? I've had metal cerakoted before but it didn't have that nice smooth slick look to it. That's what I am mainly trying to avoid.

            Comment

            • #7
              ramathorn
              Senior Member
              • Oct 2010
              • 1652

              Parkerizing will get you a flat grey. Anodizing is for aluminum. Bluing is not cheap and will wear but looks fantastic. Cerakote is inexpensive, durable and looks nice. Want it shiny, add lots of gloss hard-coat.

              Your only two options is bluing and cerakoting. If you like the classic gloss look, get it blued. It'll have higher up keep but it looks nice. Cerakote is your cheapest option and will end up very nice. Plus cerakote is easy to redo later if you want a change or would like to keep it perfect.

              Your last option if you like the Wilson Combat finish is to send it to them for their ARMOR-TUFF treatment (if they'll even do it). I'd just cerakote it but to each their own, and anyway what do i know.
              Last edited by ramathorn; 03-13-2015, 5:01 PM.

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              • #8
                HibikiR
                Senior Member
                • May 2014
                • 2417

                Originally posted by highintel
                Cerakote would be stronger than parkerizing? I've had metal cerakoted before but it didn't have that nice smooth slick look to it. That's what I am mainly trying to avoid.
                Yeah, remember that Parkerizing is old tech and has limitations because of that. Bluing is even older and suffers from greater limitations.



                Theoretically (I've never seen any live examples) you can mix SOCOM Blue with more hardener to get a close look to hot bluing.

                Another theory is to go with bluing and use one of Cerakote's new clear coats that's designed to work with polished metal surfaces.

                *When going with theory it is always best to try first with scrap gun metal to see if the look you want is possible.
                Last edited by HibikiR; 03-13-2015, 5:30 PM.

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                • #9
                  QXSOUP
                  Senior Member
                  • Sep 2011
                  • 989

                  Ionbond.
                  WTB: Sig P245 or P220 Compact

                  STOP THE TUNNELS

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    NiteQwill
                    Calguns Addict
                    • Dec 2007
                    • 6368

                    If you absolutely want the toughest, deepest black finish: Hard Hat.

                    The fate of the wounded rest in the hands of the ones who apply the first dressing.

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      highintel
                      Senior Member
                      • Jan 2013
                      • 1026

                      Originally posted by ramathorn
                      Parkerizing will get you a flat grey. Anodizing is for aluminum. Bluing is not cheap and will wear but looks fantastic. Cerakote is inexpensive, durable and looks nice. Want it shiny, add lots of gloss hard-coat.

                      Your only two options is bluing and cerakoting. If you like the classic gloss look, get it blued. It'll have higher up keep but it looks nice. Cerakote is your cheapest option and will end up very nice. Plus cerakote is easy to redo later if you want a change or would like to keep it perfect.

                      Your last option if you like the Wilson Combat finish is to send it to them for their ARMOR-TUFF treatment (if they'll even do it). I'd just cerakote it but to each their own, and anyway what do i know.
                      Good stuff. Thank you.

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        highintel
                        Senior Member
                        • Jan 2013
                        • 1026

                        Originally posted by QXSOUP
                        Ionbond.
                        What is ionbond exactly?

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          epwegmann
                          Senior Member
                          • Aug 2009
                          • 1248

                          Originally posted by NiteQwill
                          If you absolutely want the toughest, deepest black finish: Hard Hat.
                          Hard Hat or a melonite finish is the way to go. Amazing color, damn near indestructible.

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            HibikiR
                            Senior Member
                            • May 2014
                            • 2417

                            Originally posted by highintel
                            What is ionbond exactly?
                            Diamond like carbon bonded to the gun via physical vapor deposition

                            Comment

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