ASTRA REVOLVERS

[echo1]

What's the skinny on Astra's .357 double action. I've not seen indorsment of the brand much. Any owners, what's a good price? PAX

[Dutch Henry]

Astra went belly up in the late 1990's. I never owned any guns made by them but they did appear to be decent, well made pistols.

[huckberry668]

I had an Astra revolver in 44 Mag. a Rossi in 357Mag in late 80s, early 90s. both mediocre compare to SW, Colt or Ruger. I'd suggest save yourself some trouble and buy a good quality one from one of the American 3. It's a mediocre revolver even if the company didn't go under.

[BigPimping]

I read good reviews on them back in the day.

[VegasND]

I have an Astra, a .44 mag Terminator. It looks like a Model 29 S&W but is different internally. It's great fun to shoot:

[echo1]

I had an Astra revolver in 44 Mag. a Rossi in 357Mag in late 80s, early 90s. both mediocre compare to SW, Colt or Ruger. I'd suggest save yourself some trouble and buy a good quality one from one of the American 3. It's a mediocre revolver even if the company didn't go under.

I have a 6 inch .38 S&W 10-5 (since new), and had a 4 inch .357 Security Six SS (new). What's the "trouble" with them, Astra. Do they blow up in your hand, jam, or misfire? I'm not comparing the Astra to Colt, Smith, or Ruger, just asking about them. So $200 bucks is a bad buy for an as new 6 inch blued .357 Astra from the '70s - '80s with Safari holster and ammo? It's something I stumbled on, not set out after. I'd rather have a Python but I'm not spending that kind of money on anything like that, I'm too frugal. PAX

[huckberry668]

You seem to want this $200 deal. I'd say go for it if there is no known issues with the gun. It's a used gun, less popular brand may lack replacement parts and warranty. Its low price isn't without a reason is all I'm saying.

My Astra didn't have any detrimental issues. Just wasn't as well finished, smooth and accurate as the SW. I was trying to get into Bowling Pins and it just wasn't doing it for me. and my gunsmith wouldn't work on it because of the different internals and lack of replacement parts 20 years ago. Since you already have a model 10, I don't believe you'll like it as much.

[GunDog]

I had an Astra stainless .357 w/4" bbl back in the early 80's. It was a good revolver, not great.......basically a Spanish made S&W. Looked very similar to a Smith Model 19/66. Quality and fit was good to excellent. I'd rate them better than the revolvers made by Taurus. Astra is more noted for their automatic pistols.

[echo1]

It is used. The box of old ammo, that was given to the original buyer, by the LGS when the gun was bought (when it used to be done that way), is missing 6 rounds. Like I said as new for $200. Seems doable, and at that price, makes a good present for one of my boys. huck would you buy it? PAX

[bsg]

It is used. The box of old ammo, that was given to the original buyer, by the LGS when the gun was bought (when it used to be done that way), is missing 6 rounds. Like I said as new for $200. Seems doable, and at that price, makes a good present for one of my boys. huck would you buy it? PAX

the price seems reasonable to me. i might very well pick it up for $200.00 if it wasn't for my short-list that i sometimes rigidly adhere to.

[huckberry668]

Can't buy anything with $200 nowadays. .. i would check the cylinder timing and gap before buying it.

[echo1]

Can't buy anything with $200 nowadays. .. i would check the cylinder timing and gap before buying it.

I know the original owner. It's been his camping trailer gun for decades and only has had 6 rounds through it. He said I could have it, if I liked it, for what he paid for it when he bought it new. 200 bucks. I'm thinking I like it for 200 bucks. He has many rifles and shotguns, but this is his only pistol. He doesn't like hand gunning, just got it to keep in his trailer when camping.

Do these Astras have a known issue with gaps and timing? That's what I'm asking. It all seem tight and well made with nice blueing, but I don't want a Turd. Should I try and beat him down because it's not a Colt or Ruger?

My wife only paid $80 bucks for my 10-5....in '74 PAX

[huckberry668]

I used to dread buying used revolvers. so many things to check and requires so many tools. Just a few things I consider on top of my list, besides what can be checked visually and external hands-on.

Revolver cylinder timing is important because there are multiple chambers taking turns lining up with the barrel's bore/forcing cone. You see people throwing the cylinder shut with 1 hand in TV and movies. that action itself will eventually bend the yoke or center rod (sometimes the crane) and cause the cylinder/chambers to be misaligned at an angle. You'll get 'spitting' out of the cylinder gap shooting live rounds because the bullet is hitting the forcing cone off center. Worse case of off timing is revolver blowing up. you don't need to shoot any rounds thru to have this problem.

2nd type of timing issue is caused by worn ratchet star on the extractor or on the 'hand'. the hand pushes each notch on the ratchet up to spin the cylinder and lines up each chamber. Each ratchet has to be timed correctly so the cylinder/chamber is lined up and locked when the hammer is just before let-off. You can have this problem if the hammer is worked rapidly a lot even without firing a shot. A lot of single action revolvers where shooter use their non-shooting hand to cock and rapid fire have this problem. This problem will also cost you $ to fix.

To check for timing, use a 38cal 'range rod', run it down the muzzle and see if the rod 'drags' on each chamber wall at 'lock up'. Very little dragging may not be a big problem but if the rod hits the face of the cylinder, DON'T BUY. it'll cause you a lot more to fix.

Also, use the range rod's tip to see if the bore and firing pin hole on the frame lines up. Don't buy if not. The frame is probably torqued out of shape or barrel installed wrong. You should have timing issues with a torqued frame which also doesn't require firing.

Cylinder gap should be around .005" or at least .002" but no more than .010". use a feeler gauge for this. Anything bigger than .005" may be on the large side.

There is one easy to way to check revolver for usage. Look at the forcing cone cuz it's the only part of the gun bullet hit hardest. Open the cylinder and look at the breech end of the barrel. It should look like a funnel with no rifling for a few 10ths of an inch. You should see some horizontal tool mark left by the forcing cone cutter if it's new. If it's worn smooth or with lead, copper of carbon fouling then it's been shot more than a few rounds as claimed.

Or look at the bottom of the frame's top strap where the barrel ends for 'cutting'. the escaped gas cuts this area and it's unavoidable. It usually looks like erosion or heavy burn mark when the fouling is removed. You shouldn't see any if it's new.

ping me offline if you need more info.

[echo1]

I used to dread buying used revolvers. so many things to check and requires so many tools. Just a few things I consider on top of my list, besides what can be checked visually and external hands-on.
Revolver cylinder timing is important because there are multiple chambers taking turns lining up with the barrel's bore/forcing cone. You see people throwing the cylinder shut with 1 hand in TV and movies. that action itself will eventually bend the yoke or center rod (sometimes the crane) and cause the cylinder/chambers to be misaligned at an angle. You'll get 'spitting' out of the cylinder gap shooting live rounds because the bullet is hitting the forcing cone off center. Worse case of off timing is revolver blowing up. you don't need to shoot any rounds thru to have this problem.
2nd type of timing issue is caused by worn ratchet star on the extractor or on the 'hand'. the hand pushes each notch on the ratchet up to spin the cylinder and lines up each chamber. Each ratchet has to be timed correctly so the cylinder/chamber is lined up and locked when the hammer is just before let-off. You can have this problem if the hammer is worked rapidly a lot even without firing a shot. A lot of single action revolvers where shooter use their non-shooting hand to cock and rapid fire have this problem. This problem will also cost you $ to fix.
To check for timing, use a 38cal 'range rod', run it down the muzzle and see if the rod 'drags' on each chamber wall at 'lock up'. Very little dragging may not be a big problem but if the rod hits the face of the cylinder, DON'T BUY. it'll cause you a lot more to fix.
Also, use the range rod's tip to see if the bore and firing pin hole on the frame lines up. Don't buy if not. The frame is probably torqued out of shape or barrel installed wrong. You should have timing issues with a torqued frame which also doesn't require firing.
Cylinder gap should be around .005" or at least .002" but no more than .010". use a feeler gauge for this. Anything bigger than .005" may be on the large side.
There is one easy to way to check revolver for usage. Look at the forcing cone cuz it's the only part of the gun bullet hit hardest. Open the cylinder and look at the breech end of the barrel. It should look like a funnel with no rifling for a few 10ths of an inch. You should see some horizontal tool mark left by the forcing cone cutter if it's new. If it's worn smooth or with lead, copper of carbon fouling then it's been shot more than a few rounds as claimed.
Or look at the bottom of the frame's top strap where the barrel ends for 'cutting'. the escaped gas cuts this area and it's unavoidable. It usually looks like erosion or heavy burn mark when the fouling is removed. You shouldn't see any if it's new.
ping me offline if you need more info.

Thanks, that's a great revolver inspection tutorial, with excellent inspectional observation points. You can't be too leary of used equipment. I learned sumpin. Thanks again, PAX

[SoberClurichaun]

Buy itBuy itBuy itBuy itBuy itBuy it!

That's my non expert opinion.