Setup to reload 338 LM?

[edittman1]

So, with the recent purchase of my AR-30, it's time for me to invest in a decent press so that I can reload 338 LAPUA, 308, and 223. Maybe even 9mm & .45.

Can some of you guys recommend a press that would work well for for 338 above all, and the other rounds possibly if I decide to go that route later..?

I know very little at this point in regards to reloading. I do know the basic nature of a round of ammunition, but would definitely be interested in having someone in the San Jose / Campbell area show me how the technique to properly reload and share some recipes for solid, consistent ammunition. Especially someone who has 338 LM down to a science.

TIA.

[brando]

First off, I highly suggest you take an NRA Metallic Reloading class.

As for a press, your problem is the .338. I started reloading .223, .308 and .45CAP using a Rockchucker. When I moved up to larger calibers like .408CT I had to get a press with a longer stroke. I think you CAN use a Rockchucker on a .338, but it'll be tight. The problem is the overall length of the round is long for a press like that, so with a case seated and the ram down, there's very little room to place the bullet. This could be mitigated by using a side-loading seater die.

[MrSlippyFist]

+1 on brando

You will need to find a press that will clear that large round. With a round like 338 LM, you wouldn't want a progressive reloader. But you may want one for the pistol rounds and 223. It all boils down to how much money you want to spend as well.

[wildcard]

Forster Co-Ax Single Stage with their dies.

As for components:
Lapua brass, NOT Norma
Reloader 25 powder
CCI large magnum primer
SMK 300

And when you figure out how to relaod after somebody shows you (the best way), then solicit some recipes. But to start you off.. OAL is listed on the Lapua website and powder charge is 87-89 grains for most people using the the above components/parameters.

[brando]

Yeah, that's a good point. Progressives are much better for pistol loading because the steps are a bit different and the way you normally charge the cases is different as well. Honestly, since you're starting out I would suggest getting a Rockchucker with .223 & .308 dies and work from there. Once you're comfortable with making match quality ammo (and have a good load development structure) then I'd get a second, larger press for the .338 and other larger calibers.

That is exactly what I did. I initially started with .223, .308 & .45ACP. Over time I found that I would hardly do pistol ammo because it required far more work than making match rifle ammo with my current setup. So instead I'd just make pistol ammo in large batches using match rifle techniques (very long and tedious). Eventually I had a good system down for the rifle cartridges, using LnL inserts on the dies for quickly switching between FL sizing, neck sizing and seating.

When I moved up to larger calibers, I added an AmmoMaster 2 which in the end really made things easier on my bench and wasn't that much of a financial investment. I still use the same powder throw and measure gear as the smaller calibers, but have a larger press and dies for the big stuff. It's also big enough to do .50cal cartridges.

[C.G.]

First off, I highly suggest you take an NRA Metallic Reloading class.

As for a press, your problem is the .338. I started reloading .223, .308 and .45CAP using a Rockchucker. When I moved up to larger calibers like .408CT I had to get a press with a longer stroke. I think you CAN use a Rockchucker on a .338, but it'll be tight. The problem is the overall length of the round is long for a press like that, so with a case seated and the ram down, there's very little room to place the bullet. This could be mitigated by using a side-loading seater die.

I use a Rockchucker for my .338 LM; although there is not much room to spare it is not uncomfortable loading bullets.

To Editman:
do not buy cheap dies for the .338 LM. I use Redding Competition with a neck die; expensive but worth the money.

[C.G.]

Forster Co-Ax Single Stage with their dies.

As for components:
Lapua brass, NOT Norma
Reloader 25 powder
CCI large magnum primer
SMK 300

And when you figure out how to relaod after somebody shows you (the best way), then solicit some recipes. But to start you off.. OAL is listed on the Lapua website and powder charge is 87-89 grains for most people using the the above components/parameters.

+1. I would not go any higher than 87 grains to start with 300 SMK. Also, I assume that AR-30 has 1-10 or faster twist, if not then you are better off with 250 grainers. Also, a lot of people on Sniper's Hide prefer Federal 215 primers, but they've been mostly out of stock (which is why i am using CCI myself).

[-hanko]

First off, I highly suggest you take an NRA Metallic Reloading class.

As for a press, your problem is the .338. I started reloading .223, .308 and .45CAP using a Rockchucker. When I moved up to larger calibers like .408CT I had to get a press with a longer stroke. I think you CAN use a Rockchucker on a .338, but it'll be tight. The problem is the overall length of the round is long for a press like that, so with a case seated and the ram down, there's very little room to place the bullet. This could be mitigated by using a side-loading seater die.

+ another 1.

I think the new Rockchucker should work, easy enough to check at the store before you put down $$. Better, call RCBS and ask...customer service at the level of Brownells & Dillon.

+1 on no cheap tooling for this round...Forster, Redding, or RCBS (for me, in that order). Meaning I'd not even consider Lee tooling, if they even make dies for .338 LM.

For ultimate accuracy with the LM, verify correct leade with an RCBS or similar cartridge gage and transfer the length to the seating die. Pay a lot of attention to sizing, case expansion, and overall length. It's a pita to start with and you will spend some bucks on tooling beyond the press and dies. Once you get your setup dialed-in to your rifle, it becomes repeatable until you change bullet type. snipershide.com may be of help, as might the reloading forum on arfcom.

I'd definitely repeat having someone help you who reeeeally knows wtf they're doing if you're starting reloading with the .338 LM.

9mm, .45acp, .38/.357 and .223 after the pistol rounds may be worth the expenditure in time...they're far more forgiving for learner rounds. READ as much as you can about reloading, I'd tend to emphasize more books than www.

good luck & send some target pics.

-hanko

[brando]

Get the Lyman reloading manual.

[edittman1]

Links guys, I need links!!!

Sounds like I'll get the Rock Chucker to start. And reload my .223 and 9mm.

I'll get the Lapua brass now. I'll get 100.

Regarding the barrel, it is 1/10, but what would be an ideal bullet size to start with? 250gr?

Oh yeah, thanks.

[edittman1]

OK, I have done the research:

Dies:
Forster - $123.00

http://www.forsterproducts.com/store/detail.aspx?ID=30

Includes: Full Length Sizing Die, Ultra Micrometer Seating Die

Redding - $238.99

http://www.impactguns.com/store/611760585944.html

Includes: Competition Bushing Neck Sizing Die, Body Die, Competition Seating Die

Bullets:
Sierra 338 250g HPBT- $21.26 / 50 ($0.43 Per)

http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=10301_16184_16246_16252&products_id=93870

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=871533 (29.99)

Sierra 338 300g HPBT - $30.56 / 50 ($0.61 Per)

http://www.powdervalleyinc.com/SRBullets.shtml

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=486753

Brass:
LAPUA - $199.99 / 100 ($1.99 Per)

http://www.powdervalleyinc.com/LBrass.shtml

Primers:
CCI - CCI #250 LARGE RIFLE MAG PRIMERS - $24.50 / 1000 ($0.02 Per)

http://www.powdervalleyinc.com/CCIprimers.shtml

Federal - #215 FED #215 LARGE RIFLE MAG - $27.50 / 1000 ($0.02 Per)

http://www.powdervalleyinc.com/FEDprimers.shtml

Powder:
ALLIANT RELODER 25 - 1 LB. - $16.80 (How much weight per bullet?)

http://www.powdervalleyinc.com/alliant.shtml

So, I figure you can get it down to $1.00 - $1.25 per shot, based on reloading and the research above. You can drastically reduce bullet cost by buying them in bulk, 500+. Same with the LAPUA brass, if you buy 1000 units you save about $150 (only about $50 if you buy 500).

Anyway, hope you guys find this information somewhat useful.

I might just start with 40 of these: http://www.grafs.com/product/192062

[ar15barrels]

Comments in bold:

OK, I have done the research:

Dies:
Forster - $123.00

http://www.forsterproducts.com/store/detail.aspx?ID=30

Includes: Full Length Sizing Die, Ultra Micrometer Seating Die

Also consider buying the dies separate.
I like the redding bushing full length die, but the Forester seater is a better value.
No need for a separate neck sizing die or body die when you have the redding bushing full length die.

Bullets:
Sierra 338 300g HPBT - $30.56 / 50 ($0.61 Per)

http://www.powdervalleyinc.com/SRBullets.shtml

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=486753

Buy them 500 at a time for a better deal.

Powder:
ALLIANT RELODER 25 - 1 LB. - $16.80 (How much weight per bullet?)

http://www.powdervalleyinc.com/alliant.shtml

Just order the 8lb jug.
It goes fast... About 80 rounds per pound of powder.

[C.G.]

Comments in bold:

What Randall said and also if you go with Redding (which I would highly suggest) you need to get the bushing separately. I forget now which one I have but either do a search on Sniper's Hide for proper size or wait till next time I am in the "reloading room" and I'll check.

If Federal 215s are in stock, you probably should get those as they seem to be preferred.

BTW, these two places usually have the best deals on RCBS stuff:

http://www.natchezss.com/index.cfm?CFID=3127838&CFTOKEN=42384141

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/

[C.G.]

Regarding the barrel, it is 1/10, but what would be an ideal bullet size to start with? 250gr?

Oh yeah, thanks.

If it is 1/10 might as well use the 300, they'll get you out further (that is if you can find a range to get you that far).

[thmpr]

I use my dillon 650... works great!