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crunching some numbers for reloading

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  • #16
    beknar
    Junior Member
    • Oct 2010
    • 87

    Originally posted by bumpo628
    Here are some better deals on the equipment:
    btw, Grafs only charges $5 for shipping regardless of how much is on the order. Coupon code "blue" may still take the $5 off.
    The cost ends up about the same, but you get better (and more) equipment from a more reputable seller.

    $160 - LEE PRO 1000 RELOADER 223 REM w/RIFLE CHG DIE
    Lee Pro1000 progressive 3-Hole reloading Kit for 223 Rem. Includes press, PaceSetter 2-die set (Full Length Sizer, Bullet Seater/Crimper), 3-Hole Turret, #4 Shell Plate, Auto-Drum Powder Measure, Short Charging Die, Universal Case Feeder and Small Priming system. Note:  This press may be used to load 5.56 NATO (5.56 x 45mm) brass. You must follow load data published for the 5.56 NATO, available from your favorite powder manufacturer. This press only accepts the 3-Hole Turret. Picture Note: Pro1000 pictured mounted to the Lee Reloading Stand, sold separately. Pro 1000 pictured with Lee Bin & Bracket to hold the completed rounds, sold separately. WARNING: Only CCI or Remington brand primers are safe use with this press.


    $72 - FRANKFORD ARSENAL QUICK-N-EZ CASE TUMBLER KIT (Tumbler, sifter, media, polish)
    Same great features as the Quick-N-EZ Case tumbler. Includes a Quick-N-EZ Case Tumbler, a Quick-N-EZ Rotary Media Separator, 4 oz Brass Polish, 3 lbs of ground Corn Cob Media and a Plastic Bucket for storing media between uses.Used in conjunction with Frankford Arsenal Walnut and Corn Cob Medias, the Quick-N-EZ Case removes fouling, lube, and oxidation Holds up to 600 9mm or 350 223 cases


    for future reference:
    $7 for 10 quarts of tumbler media (aka -Zilla Ground English Walnut Shells Reptile Bedding)



    For a reloading book, this is a good one:
    LYMAN RELOADING MANUAL 49th EDITION SOFT COVER
    http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/...roductId/10641
    Fantastic links, THANKS!!

    Comment

    • #17
      olhunter
      CGN Contributor
      • Dec 2008
      • 3707

      I reload, but don't particularly enjoy it.

      I hate the case prep and will buy processed brass. Then save the empties for credit against the next batch. My cost goes up, but it's worth it to me.

      I like the ability to create my own loads though. I'm not in it for the savings really.

      If I'm patient and shop around, I can buy ammo for pretty close to what it costs (me) to reload.

      My big savings is reloading with lead-free bullets. Buying factory lead-free is ridiculous.
      It cannot be inherited, nor can it ever be purchased.
      You and no one alive can buy it for any price. It is impossible to rent and cannot be lent.
      You alone and our own have earned it with...Your sweat, blood and lives. You own it forever.

      The title is....."United States Marine".


      sigpic

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      • #18
        killshot44
        Veteran Member
        • Nov 2009
        • 4072

        Originally posted by beknar
        what is with the .224 sizing of the bullets? why isn't it .223?
        Based on that question I feel you should hold off buying ANYTHING until you've read at least the Lyman manual if not more....
        This is a good read: http://www.6mmbr.com/jgcaseprep.html (forget about neck turning/sizing)
        So is this: http://www.inlandshooters.net/index.php?contentid=99
        This:

        You should know that well-made handloads are much better than factory "match" ammo. Compare your cost per round to that, not the cheapest PMC you can buy (though PMC is pretty decent brass for 4/5 loads).

        As others noted, you've left out a bunch of incidentals that add up:
        Loading Blocks, Powder funnels, Powder Trickler, Powder thrower, GOOD Scale, Trimming tool(s) w/chamferers, Primer Pocket Cleaner, Flash Hole Deburrer, really GOOD calipers, Headspace Gage and Bushings - those are just the basics.
        Last edited by killshot44; 01-29-2011, 6:29 PM.

        Comment

        • #19
          rsrocket1
          Veteran Member
          • Feb 2010
          • 2768

          Seeing this seems to imply you need to start with a reloading book first. Don't even consider anything else yet.

          You point to a black powder substitute. This should never be used in .223. Most smokeless rifle powders go for about $20/pound. A little less when you buy 8 pound jugs.

          An inexpensive single stage press setup will cost you about $200 all up (including dies which you don't show). A Progressive like the Lee will require close to $300 for the right loading tools not including the cleaning supplies (not needed if you really want to save money, those techniques are in the reloading books you need to get).

          Good starting books:
          "ABC's of Reloading"
          Lee "Modern Reloading Manual "

          Comment

          • #20
            bumpo628
            Senior Member
            • Nov 2009
            • 1142

            First off, I agree that it looks like you need to read the Lyman manual before you get going. Second, starting off with a rifle caliber makes it more difficult due to the additional work required for case preparation. I started on pistol calibers, then shotgun, and finally I am starting on rifle (30-06). I have purchased all my rifle reloading gear, but I still haven't loaded a round yet. I'm still reading and learning.

            If you shoot any pistols, you might want to learn the basics first, then step up to rifle reloading. Otherwise, you are in for a steep learning curve. Don't rush to get started.

            Here is some more equipment you will need:

            This is the best scale (don't bother with the Lee scale, you'll just buy this one later anyway):
            $56 - DILLON SCALE ELIMINATOR TRIPLE POISE BEAM
            Graf & Sons, the reloading authority, has a wide selection of reloading supplies, shooting supplies, ammo and more.


            For 223, you will also need case lube, case trimmers (possum hollow is the best), chamfer/deburring tool, primer pocket reamer for crimped primer pockets, and I'm sure there's more. I'll try to post links later.
            Last edited by bumpo628; 01-29-2011, 7:09 PM.
            Ronald Reagan once said that the most terrifying words in the English language are: "I'm from the government and I'm here to help".
            Download my alloy calculator here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=105952

            Comment

            • #21
              pdq_wizzard
              Veteran Member
              • May 2008
              • 3813

              Originally posted by rsrocket1
              Seeing this seems to imply you need to start with a reloading book first. Don't even consider anything else yet.

              You point to a black powder substitute. This should never be used in .223. Most smokeless rifle powders go for about $20/pound. A little less when you buy 8 pound jugs.

              An inexpensive single stage press setup will cost you about $200 all up (including dies which you don't show). A Progressive like the Lee will require close to $300 for the right loading tools not including the cleaning supplies (not needed if you really want to save money, those techniques are in the reloading books you need to get).

              Good starting books:
              "ABC's of Reloading"
              Lee "Modern Reloading Manual "
              ^^^ This ^^^ Read it / Know it Live it !!!

              And I do mean Live!!!
              Q: What was the most positive result of the "Cash for Clunkers" program?
              A: It took 95% of the Obama bumper stickers off the road.

              Originally posted by M. Sage
              More what? More crazy?
              You live in California. There's always more crazy. It's a renewable resource.

              Comment

              • #22
                beknar
                Junior Member
                • Oct 2010
                • 87

                Looks like I have a bunch of reading to do. Good thing I'll be at a bookstore tomorrow.

                Comment

                • #23
                  J-cat
                  Calguns Addict
                  • May 2005
                  • 6626

                  You don't need a progressive reloader.

                  Comment

                  • #24
                    Fishslayer
                    In Memoriam
                    • Jan 2010
                    • 13035

                    Originally posted by beknar
                    :Can I use the media over and over again?
                    You can save on media by buying lizard litter at your local feed store. It's finely crushed walnut shell. Cleans faster than cob but doesn't give that brilliant shine. Add a bit of Nu Finish car polish & your brass will look pretty good pretty quickly.
                    "He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog.
                    You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart.
                    You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion."


                    Originally Posted by JackRydden224
                    I hope Ruger pays the extortion fees for the SR1911. I mean the gun is just as good if not better than a Les Baer.
                    Originally posted by redcliff
                    A Colt collector shooting Rugers is like Hugh Grant cheating on Elizabeth Hurley with a hooker.

                    Comment

                    • #25
                      bumpo628
                      Senior Member
                      • Nov 2009
                      • 1142

                      Here's a list of rifle-specific tooling that I bought (I purchased 30-06 tools, but I adapted the list to your 223 example). None of this is needed for pistol calibers. I just remembered that you will also need a set of dial calipers ($15) if you don't have them already.

                      $25 - Possum Hollow Kwick Case Trimmer 223 Remington (indexes off the shoulder)


                      $10 - Possum Hollow Power Adapter (can be used with case trimmer or deburring tool)


                      $19 - RCBS Chamfer and Deburring Tool 17 to 45 Caliber (does inside and outside the case mouth)


                      $10 - Hornady Primer Pocket Reamer Tool Small (to remove crimp)


                      $5 - Lee Decapper and Base 22 Caliber (crimped brass is hard to remove primer first time)


                      $18 - Lyman Case Lube Kit (or you could opt for a spray lube if you prefer)


                      $7 - Frankford Arsenal Universal Reloading Tray 50-Round Plastic Blue (you might not need this with a progressive, but can't hurt)


                      $32 - Hornady Lock-N-Load Headspace Gage 5 Bushing Set with Comparator (measures from base to shoulder)
                      Last edited by bumpo628; 01-29-2011, 9:31 PM.
                      Ronald Reagan once said that the most terrifying words in the English language are: "I'm from the government and I'm here to help".
                      Download my alloy calculator here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=105952

                      Comment

                      • #26
                        jwest
                        Veteran Member
                        • Dec 2008
                        • 3958

                        FWIW I did a spreadsheet that was previously posted in this group determining the break even for shotshell reloading using Wally World as a basis for 12 Ga. shell cost and calculating the break using a Dillon SL 900. Break even occurred before 3K rounds - so that puts it into perspective. We're talking shot shell cost from Wally World.
                        sigpic
                        "They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety." --- Benjamin Franklin
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                        • #27
                          killshot44
                          Veteran Member
                          • Nov 2009
                          • 4072

                          Originally posted by beknar
                          Looks like I have a bunch of reading to do. Good thing I'll be at a bookstore tomorrow.
                          Sadly, you won't find any of the needed references in a book store or most librarys.

                          You point to a black powder substitute. This should never be used in .223.
                          Oh, brother. I didn't even check his link. Yikes.
                          Last edited by killshot44; 01-30-2011, 12:49 AM.

                          Comment

                          • #28
                            SixPointEight
                            Veteran Member
                            • May 2009
                            • 3788

                            Originally posted by killshot44
                            Sadly, you won't find any of the needed references in a book store or most librarys.



                            Oh, brother. I didn't even check his link. Yikes.
                            Me niether. We both almost let this guy blow himself up lol

                            Comment

                            • #29
                              bumpo628
                              Senior Member
                              • Nov 2009
                              • 1142

                              Originally posted by jwest
                              FWIW I did a spreadsheet that was previously posted in this group determining the break even for shotshell reloading using Wally World as a basis for 12 Ga. shell cost and calculating the break using a Dillon SL 900. Break even occurred before 3K rounds - so that puts it into perspective. We're talking shot shell cost from Wally World.
                              Those are great spreadsheets for calculating break even points.
                              (linked earlier by XDRoX: http://10xshooters.com/calculators/H...Calculator.htm)

                              I don't mean to threadjack here, but how does an $870 press pay off in 3000 rounds? You would have to save $0.30 per round. Wal-Mart ammo doesn't even cost that much, maybe $.25 out the door. Just curious about your numbers, that's all.
                              Ronald Reagan once said that the most terrifying words in the English language are: "I'm from the government and I'm here to help".
                              Download my alloy calculator here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=105952

                              Comment

                              • #30
                                iareConfusE
                                Veteran Member
                                • Jan 2010
                                • 4464

                                Originally posted by bumpo628
                                Those are great spreadsheets for calculating break even points.
                                (linked earlier by XDRoX: http://10xshooters.com/calculators/H...Calculator.htm)

                                I don't mean to threadjack here, but how does an $870 press pay off in 3000 rounds? You would have to save $0.30 per round. Wal-Mart ammo doesn't even cost that much, maybe $.25 out the door. Just curious about your numbers, that's all.
                                For what caliber? When I was calculating this stuff myself before I started reloading, I calculated commercial .45ACP to be around $.40-.50 per round, and reload ammo to be $.16-.17 per round. A cost savings of $.30 per round isn't that far fetched.

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