Results: First hunting load development

[Jusgunn3]

Hey there, I started reloading for my hunting rifles and I wanted to post the results and get some feedback. Didn't shoot as well as I had hoped but I think I need to play with the seating depth?

Remington model 7 300wsm
Brass: Winchester
Powder: RL17
Primer: Fed Match GM215M
Bullet: 168gr ttsx
Loads: 63gr, 64gr, 65gr, 66gr, 67gr
OAL: 2.830"

1. 2950, 2926, 2906, 2918, 2955
SD: 18.74 3.93 MOA

2. 3002, 3008, 2998, 3008, 3005
SD: 3.81 2.84 MOA

3. 3038, 3025, 3077, 3125, 3121
SD: 41.14 2.86 MOA

4. 3078, 3076, 3061, 3093, 3068
SD: 10.75 1.64 MOA

5. 3141, 3197, 3194, 3115, 3170
SD: 31.47 2.36 MOA


Savage 11 .308
Brass: Federal
Powder: IMR 4064
Primer: CCI 200
Bullet: 130gr ttsx
Loads: 43gr, 44gr, 45gr, 46gr, 47gr
OAL: 2.735"

1. 2798, 2800, 2763, 2766,
SD: 17.79 2.3 MOA

2. 2842, 2833, 2825, 2798
SD: 16.43 1.2 MOA

3. 2891, 2901, 2889, 2886
SD: 12.81 1.88 MOA

4. 2936, 2934, 2940, 2958
SD: 9.48 1.12 MOA

5. 2987, 3001, 2984, 3003
SD: 7.29 2.14 MOA

Thoughts?

[croue]

[Divernhunter]

Where did you get your data?? The 130gr TTSX using IMR4064 should be 65.4grs.
Follow the 4 basic rules of reloading Barnes bullets and you should get good groups and terminal performance.

[JackEllis]

I load .30-06 for most 4-legged game and look for groups at around an inch. Loads 2 and 4 for the .308 are good enough for hunting with that caliber.

If you try 65.4 grains for the .300 WSM I'll bet your groups get a bit better.

I did not find a whole lot of difference seating monolithic bullets as deep as Divernhunter does but then again I'm not a great bench shooter so it could have been me.

[Jusgunn3]

Thanks Croue, I would still like some tighter groups in the WSM. I will mess around a little more.

[Jusgunn3]

Where did you get your data?? The 130gr TTSX using IMR4064 should be 65.4grs.
Follow the 4 basic rules of reloading Barnes bullets and you should get good groups and terminal performance.

I got some data from a buddy and made my own loads to try. I was shooting the 130gr out of the .308. The 168gr out of the 300wsm.

I load .30-06 for most 4-legged game and look for groups at around an inch. Loads 2 and 4 for the .308 are good enough for hunting with that caliber.

If you try 65.4 grains for the .300 WSM I'll bet your groups get a bit better.

I did not find a whole lot of difference seating monolithic bullets as deep as Divernhunter does but then again I'm not a great bench shooter so it could have been me.

Jack, I think the .308 did ok but kinda disappointed in the WSM. I will try your load suggestion when I get them loaded back up for another try. Thanks.

[Divernhunter]

^^^ Sorry I missed that the 130gr bullet was in a 308W.

Go online and use Barnes data for Barnes bullets. It is different than other bullets.
Seat them DEEP. Barnes loves bullet jump.

What are you using to clean the rifles? Also after cleaning do not shoot regular jacketed bullets before shooting Barnes.

[Jusgunn3]

[scotty99]

[LynnJr]

Are you getting any pressure with the 300 wsm?
I ask because my load is 66 grains of H4350 and a 187 grain BIB bullet.
My freebore is very long on my reamer so that could be the difference.

[JackEllis]

I'm not familiar with the cleaner you're using but in my experience, you need to get all of the copper out of the barrel. Sweets has ammonia but it is very effective. You may need to alternate between a regular solvent for lead and carbon, and a copper solvent. You need to do this no matter what kind of projectiles have been down the barrel.

This is worth a read. One of the customers in the article might have been me.

[Divernhunter]

I use Wipe-Out and then Sweets 7.62 or Barnes CR-10 and follow that with Butches Bore Shine.
Your m-pro7 would replace the Butches Bore Shine.
You may have to do the Wipe-out and Sweets 7.62 a couple of times if you keep getting signs of fouling.
Most of the time I only use patches and plenty of them. Your rod is a good one. I use Dewey myself.

The Wipe-Out is nice as you shoot it into the barrel and then let it sit to do its work and boy does it work.

I have always been able to get the TTSX bullets to group but I also use some LRX bullets in my 6.5X300W and will probably work up some loads with them in other cartridges.

Use the max load on the Barnes website or book and select 2-3 powders that show the highest FPS. The Barnes data is a bit conservative and I have never seen any pressure problems using the max loads in a number of cartridges. Generally the fastest loads have given the best accuracy. They also give the best terminal performance

[lewdogg21]

Where did you get your data?? The 130gr TTSX using IMR4064 should be 65.4grs.
Follow the 4 basic rules of reloading Barnes bullets and you should get good groups and terminal performance.

What are they doug? Just wondering in case it's something I'm not aware of.

This is worth a read. One of the customers in the article might have been me.

Thanks Jack. I've got a 35 Remington that I'm going to try one real good cleaning on it again and after that I'm back at ground zero as to why it's not shooting anything like it used too.

[JackEllis]

Thanks Jack. I've got a 35 Remington that I'm going to try one real good cleaning on it again

Right now I use monolithics only in my '.06 but one day I used a copper solvent on another rifle that shoots jacketed bullets just to see what would happen. It took several iterations of Hoppes followed by Sweets before the patches were no longer dirty or blue.

Scrub the .35 Remington and then let us know the results.

[Divernhunter]

Rules:1) pick a bullet lighter than you would use with a lead core bullet. Barnes act like a lead core bullet 30% heavier. So a 150gr Barnes will act like a 195gr lead core bullet in terminal performance. Use TTSX or LRX as they start opening sooner than TSX and the tips will not fold over like the TSX sometimes do when hitting bone at certain angles
2) Push them as fast as possible for best terminal performance. This goes back to rule1 by using a lighter bullet you can push it faster. They also tend to group better the faster you push thing. I do not know why but they do.
3)Barnes(and Swift ) bullets NEED bullet jump for best accuracy. This also helps you not get pressure spikes like the old X-Bullet. My Weatherby rifles have1/4" jump and still shoot cloverleaf groups. General rule of thumb is to seat them so the top relief groove is just showing. I do have a couple of rifles that do best when the top groove is covered up by the case neck. Never have been able to get too much jump. I have greatly improved groups by seating them deeper than when I did the 1st test loads.
4) Before shooting Barnes bullets--especially in a firearm that has shot regular jacketed bullets- you must really super clean the barrel. Once cleaned you can shoot a lot of Barnes without cleaning. I have a 257W that I shot over 100rounds before deciding to clean and a 7-08 with 250 rounds. IF you shoot some regular bullets after some Barnes then you need to super clean it again before using Barnes for best results.

Here is how I clean a barrel. It sounds long and drawn out but goes rather quickly especially if you do them in groups.
Let us get this out of the way first thing. NO #9 will not to the job! I use to use it so I know. I have been taken to task about it with friends and have proved my point every time. So do not even try posting that it works. I have taken several rifles that friends swore were spotless unsing #9 and then shown them all that was missed.
Ok that is out of the way. Here is what I do. 1) I use the original foaming bore cleaner called Wipe-Out. Then let the firearm set. Use a rod guide in the bolt to prevent the foam getting into the action. 2) Use patches and if real bad repeat. 3) I use Sweets 7.62 or Barnes CR-10 and let it set no more than 10 min. then patches. If a lot of blue/crud then repeat #1 and 2. Not usually needed. 3) follow with Butches Bore Shine/Tetra-Gun/one of the Montana/Shooter Choice or shooters choice and Kroil oil 50/50 products or a host of other solvents. 4) If not shooting soon oil the bore. I use Tetra Gun or Lucas oil usually.
Now for you #9 fans IF you just cannot live without it use it after #3 and before#4

PS__I do not clean my firearms every time I shoot them and it is NOT NEEDED. More firearms have been ruined from improper cleaning than not cleaning. If shoot corrosive ammo the do clean every time but we are talking about Barnes bullet and non-corrosive primers here.

Speaking of improper cleaning IF you use the 3 piece alum cleaning rods Please 1) do not clean your firearm or 2) toss it(or save for emergency use of a stuck case) and buy a good 10 Coated one piece rod or 2) one piece Carbon Fiber rod or 3) one piece SS rod----you get the idea.

I think that pretty much covers it.
This should be a darn sticky as may times as I have been asked to post it