Over under for $1500

[ysr_racer]

Personally for a break open type gun I shoot a Weatherby Orion in .410 for upland game and a Beretta 686 or Perazzi TMX for everything else

That's three, he asked about one

[ScottB]

Thanks guys for the suggestions. I might be asking too much for an all in one type gun, so I'm gonna try out as many as I can and see where that takes me.

I prefer the right tool for the job, but if you really just want one gun for everything (hunting and clay games), get a 12 gauge autoloader with a 26" barrel. Just be aware it is a compromise for many applications. Make sure it fits. Benellis fit me, Berettas do not. You should be able to find an SBE II or Extrema in your price range. Look at Remington and Winchester as well. It is difficult to significantly alter the fit of a synthetic stock, but they are lighter and lower maintenance, but I think the all black ones are just fugly.

These are most adapted to waterfowl hunting and least adapted to upland hunting, except maybe pheasants. Stay away from anything that could be described as a "shotty" or is optimized for home defense.

And yes, ysr_racer, I have dropped/fallen with 2 of my O/Us while hunting. Sometimes you just have to get a stock refinished or some other repair. If you hunt chukar, it happens. Run with the big dogs or stay on the porch. Anyone who doesn't understand the difference between a field gun and nice target gun probably should not waste their money on fine shotguns.

[ScottB]

Well, actually there are some issues with 101s. I own two of the Japanese 101s, one in 12ga and one in .410. Some complain that the Olin Kodensha 101s kick a lot for their gauge and load. I have not noticed that, but it's a consistent theme when 101s are being discusssed. The early 101s were all fixed choke barrels and many (including my 12 Skeet) do not have enough barrel wall thickness to retrofit choke tubes, even thinwalls. With the factory having been closed for decades, some parts are scarce and some are not available without buying a parts gun. Probably not a wise choice for someone who asks advice on the interwebs about what's good for $1500. I like my 101s, but I don't think they are right for OP. The first gen Belgian 101s were extremely heavy and did not sell well because of that major flaw. Weight (properly distributed) is generally good in a clays gun, and bad in a hunting gun. OP wants to do both. The later Belgian 101s were lightened a bit and are nicer guns, but there is no compelling reason to chose one of those over a Beretta or Citori, unless OP falls into an unusually good deal on the 101.

I agree with a lot of what you said, but the recoil thing is something came up seemingly whenever someone pulled out a 101 at my old club. We would get out on the line like a bunch of old farts staring under a car hood and try to figure it out. Typically, either the gun just did not fit the shooter or, more commonly they had a poor mount. Personally I never had an issue.

As for thin wall tubes and fixed chokes, my favorite upland gun is one I have had since I was 15 (long time!) Its a Model 600 Ithaca 20 gauge full/mod. with chrome lined barrels. 1) Briley said they could fit chokes 2) I honestly have never felt the need for more open chokes.

Sadly the lead ban has forced me to use another shotgun for quail and chukar, unless getting the Brileys will allow me to shoot steel with it, but for this season, I am using a Citori 12 gauge, at about a pound and half more weight.

[bigbearbear]

If you really just want one gun for everything (hunting and clay games), get a 12 gauge autoloader with a 26" barrel.

I would go with this. You tend to get "more gun" for the money in an auto-loader than an O/U shotgun. With a budget of $1,500 you can get a very nice auto-loader (e.g., Benelli M2) vs a very low end gun if you go for a O/U.

A good auto also makes a formidable home defense firearm too.

[Thefeeder]

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For 1500 you have a wide pick of new and used guns...I'm particular to Brownings....just make sure that the gun you pick has interchangeable chokes

A field gun will work better as an all around gun then a sport/clays gun


Side note
It seems that a lot hunters like to throw their guns in the mud the few times that they went hunting.

Personally I would take internet advise with a grain of salt.

[ysr_racer]

I shoot clays with a Browning 525. I hunt with a Beretta A300. I'd be pissed if my Browning got wet or muddy.

If my Beretta gets muddy, I just hose it off when I get home.

[Ducky's Dad]

As for thin wall tubes and fixed chokes, my favorite upland gun is one I have had since I was 15 (long time!) Its a Model 600 Ithaca 20 gauge full/mod. with chrome lined barrels. 1) Briley said they could fit chokes 2) I honestly have never felt the need for more open chokes.

Sadly the lead ban has forced me to use another shotgun for quail and chukar, unless getting the Brileys will allow me to shoot steel with it, but for this season, I am using a Citori 12 gauge, at about a pound and half more weight.

The lead ban is screwing things up royally for hunters, and even more for guys who want one all around gun for hunting and clays. That makes screw chokes almost mandatory for OP, and that is one of the downfalls of the O-K 101s for OP's stated needs. My old Citori 12 is so old that it had fixed chokes, and I had Bob Day fit it with Colonial thinwalls, steel approved. That gun has done everything from doves and quail to ducks and snow geese, and the occasional round of clays. I like fixed chokes, generally M/F or IM/F (except for waterfowl) and have not changed the choke combo in any of my guns for years, but that may change if I ever again hunt anything other than ducks in CA.

[FLIGHT762]

Two chokes and the 3rd shot is always a Hail Mary anyway.

Nonsense, I bag a lot of Ducks and Geese with my third shot.

[Chubs T]

Today a tried a new Browning CX and I have to say I was impressed on how well it handled recoil. The owner said he got it from Able's ammo on sale. They have a 30" CX on sale right now for $1,549. Could be a nice all-around O/U for the same price of an A400 semi-auto.

[ScottB]

Nonsense, I bag a lot of Ducks and Geese with my third shot.

YMMV. For me, its a waste. A bon voyage salute to a departing flight. Seems to be so for most of the people I hunt with as well. I use a Benelli for waterfowl because I have one, but honestly, I wonder two chokes and a fast reload of two rounds might be more valuable that that third shot.

[FLIGHT762]

Well, I've been hunting Ducks & Geese since 1965. I've only missed one season since then. I've had a lot of practice.

You just need to know when the third shot can connect rather than using it for that Hail Mary / golden BB shot. I connected with a third shot two weeks ago.

[Ducky's Dad]

The third shot is really handy for triples!

[JagerDog]

Corvettes don't impress in Newport. And they only have two seats, no clearance and no cargo capacity, so to further belabor the metaphor, you'll need at least one more club to play the whole game.

But the passenger seat lasts forever.

I beg to differ on cargo space though. 23 cu ft in my C6 coupe. The clearance isn't too bad either. Scrapes alot less less than the wife's Roush Mustang.

RE: shotguns...depends on the quarry. Pheasant and targets I like O/U, S/S. Quail and waterfowl, I like autos. They aren't out of battery when stuffing another shell or two. The 3rd shot is seldom for the original target, but rather when a new target present itself. A not uncommon occurance on quail. O/U sucks in pit blinds. The difference of one style getting muddy vs. another is largely mental.

I'm still considering adding my buddy's Citori Lightning to my stable for $1K. A quite fair deal, but not a steal. $1000-$1500 can get get a quality used O/U B-gun.

If you reload (I do) a breech loader is almost a requirement for volume shooting.