Will I lose Zero if I remove my Scopes from the gun?

[Infidel]

Sorry I'm new to the whole scoped rifle game, and I've always used irons or left the scope on the gun once it was zeroed. So the reason I ask is because my safe isn't very deep(designed for traditional hunting rifles and shotguns) and my AR's don't really fit against the standoffs with the scope installed even with the extended standoffs its just too tall with a pistol grip and a scope. So that is why I pose the question if I was to remove my zeroed in scope from the AR's top rail for storage and then re-attach when I go to the range will I still be Zeroed?

[bruce_ventura]

Depends on your definition of "zero." Most rails and scope mounts are cut pretty quickly. The edges are not as stright, nor the tolerances as tight as they could be. Small variations in screw tension can change scope boresight alignment a little bit. You will be OK if you use a torque wrench to tighten the rail mount screws to the same tension each time.

I have to do the same thing to get my rifle to fit into the gun case built into my truck.

Bruce

[Infidel]

Depends on your definition of "zero." Most rails and scope mounts are cut pretty quickly. The edges are not as stright, nor the tolerances as tight as they could be. Small variations in screw tension can change scope boresight alignment a little bit. You will be OK if you use a torque wrench to tighten the rail mount screws to the same tension each time.

I have to do the same thing to get my rifle to fit into the gun case built into my truck.

Bruce

When you use the torque wrench how much if any loss of zero do you experience?!?!?

[Stockton]

Alot will depend on the quality base and rings you have. I wouldn't trust low end ring to return your zero. NF,Badger,ARMS are a few that will return zero. Also follow the correct procedure each time when remounting is an important part to the return.

[Infidel]

Alot will depend on the quality base and rings you have. I wouldn't trust low end ring to return your zero. NF,Badger,ARMS are a few that will return zero. Also follow the correct procedure each time when remounting is an important part to the return.

What else beside torque specs in the remounting procedure should I pay attention to...Sorry if I am over complicating the situation I just want to make sure I do everything the right way.

Thanks

[Stockton]

if your base is 1913/Picatiny type 1piece just remember to apply pressure forward on scope once rings are securely in the slot then start to tighten evenly at both ends until proper torque is achieved. Tighten each one in small increments and not just one side at a time.

You should never remove your scope from the rings themselves as you will surely lose everything.

[CSACANNONEER]

I know several compitition shooters who remove their optics every time they transport them. Of course, they re-zero each time. It's not a big deal to re-zero if you know what you're doing. I can zero a scope at any distance with one shot. I normally make a minor adjustment or two and take a secons shot to confirm that I'm good. This only works if you're target shooting. Hunting or real world tactical types of shooting do not allow for a sighter shot.

[maxicon]

This is why QR mounts have a good reputation for RTZ - the lever release tends to apply the same clamping force repeatably without needing a torque wrench. The other keys are using the same slot each time and keeping the rail and mount clean, and pushing the mount all the way forward as was mentioned.

RTZ is a somewhat misused term. Like any mechanical component spec, it should have a tolerance associated with it, such as "will return within X MOA when remounted in the same position".

That brings up the question of how close a RTZ is important.

Statistically speaking, you can't really measure better RTZ than your rifle is capable of shooting unless you shoot large groups. If you've got a 1 MOA rifle/ammo combo (XM193 won't do this in any rifle) and a mount that will return to within 1/2 MOA, it's an essentially undetectable shift with less than 10-20 rounds, so there's no real difference between a 1/2 MOA RTZ mount and a 1/4 MOA RTZ mount on that rifle. A 1/8 MOA rifle and loads would allow you to measure those differences, in theory, assuming no wind. An extremely sturdy bench and gun clamp and a gridded target would do the trick as well without the wind issues.

I'm only aware of a few manufacturers that actually spec the RTZ on mounts.

[Infidel]

Ok thanks guys...I feel a lot more comfortable with this now.

BTW...I am using the Clamp style mounts from RRA

As long as I can hit a Man center mass at around 50-100yds after re-attaching my scope without a re-zero I think it will be ok. My question was more for a SHTF situation than anything, just because a few shots to dial everything in won't be possible since I need the rifle now!

As far as Hunting or target shooting I don't mind having to take 5-10 shots to dial it back in perfect before I get to business.

[MrNiceGuy]

I have a Larue SPR with a Millet TRS (yes I know I have to upgrade to NF or USO).
But the point is, I've taken it off many times and put it back on, always holds zero.