Tweet
I used this kit to mount my X300 on my AR. I didn't like the height of the rail and I wanted to tighten it up a little and bring the light in closer to the handgaurd and I also moved the rail more forward on my midlength MOE handgaurd for more room for my hand to hold onto the handgaurd. So for those of you that want to do the same, here's how I did it.
There are two centering tabs on the rail and I removed the forward tab to allow you to move the rail forward. I wanted it a little more forward so I moved the "step" back where the plastic curves up by removing some material. If not sure what I'm talking about, install the rail on the handgaurd with the forward tab removed and slide it forward. You'll see where the step hits the handgaurd when you can't slide it anymore. With the rear tab intact and when the screw is installed, there's no way for the rail to twist so in essence you still have two centering points to keep it straight instead of three. I then removed 3/16" of material using a upright belt sander at the shop. You can use a dremel too and then finish it off with a file to make it smooth. Be careful removing material around the rear centering tab. You don't want to cut or break that off. Also BE CAREFUL not to remove too much material from the bottome of the rail to a point where there's no more plastic for the screw to hold the rail down when you tighten it. If you did then you might as well throw it away. Below is what mine looked like when done. Take your time.
There are two centering tabs on the rail and I removed the forward tab to allow you to move the rail forward. I wanted it a little more forward so I moved the "step" back where the plastic curves up by removing some material. If not sure what I'm talking about, install the rail on the handgaurd with the forward tab removed and slide it forward. You'll see where the step hits the handgaurd when you can't slide it anymore. With the rear tab intact and when the screw is installed, there's no way for the rail to twist so in essence you still have two centering points to keep it straight instead of three. I then removed 3/16" of material using a upright belt sander at the shop. You can use a dremel too and then finish it off with a file to make it smooth. Be careful removing material around the rear centering tab. You don't want to cut or break that off. Also BE CAREFUL not to remove too much material from the bottome of the rail to a point where there's no more plastic for the screw to hold the rail down when you tighten it. If you did then you might as well throw it away. Below is what mine looked like when done. Take your time.
