Best bedding compound?

[desertrider]

Try a rotary file instead of a burr.
The rotary files I have will remove a scary amount of aluminum faster than you would imagine without clogging.

Note taken, thanks for the advice!

[ar15barrels]

I use a die grinder with carbide burrs at 30,000 rpm as well and aluminum just seems like a pain to remove material from.
It clogs those $30 bits up very quickly so keep some steel handy to clean the burr.

Try a rotary file instead of a burr.
The rotary files I have will remove a scary amount of aluminum faster than you would imagine without clogging.

[LynnJr]

Yacko
The strips need to be very thin and they tend to hit about midway down the bolt handle mortise. First thing to look for on any H-S stocked rifle that throws a flier.

OP
I use a die grinder with carbide burrs at 30,000 rpm as well and aluminum just seems like a pain to remove material from. It clogs those $30 bits up very quickly so keep some steel handy to clean the burr.
When you put a max heavy varmint or #17 barrel into one of those stocks and free float the barrel you run into the barrel block again way down the forend. The fill material and the stock both sand easily it's the block itself that takes a little time.

[ar15barrels]

What side of the bolt handle do you see the problem?
Or are you 'wrapping the paper around the handle so front, bottom, rear all have newspaper?
I dont have an HS, but curious and want to check some stocks...

Front back or bottom.
None of those should touch.
The bolt handle should stop against the reciever, NOT the stock.

It would be pretty hard for the outside surface to touch any part of the stock!

[pacrat]

RELEASE AGENT

I've never used anything other than Johnsons Paste Furniture Wax. Same can since 1971. Wife quit looking for it after a couple years.

Filling holes is a BIG USELESS WASTE OF TIME. And a Pain in the POOPER to dig all that putty, goop, Play-Doh, or clay out of the holes afterward.

Refer to this thread from last year. For the fastest, easiest, most efficient way to prep for bedding. That I've found over the last 40+ yrs and dozens of bedding jobs. https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/...highlight=foil

Using this:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Aluminium-Foil-Adhesive-Sealing-Tape-Heating-Duct-Silver-Repairs-High-Temperature-Resistant/473679424?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101018763&&adid=22222222227422375294&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=512126346600&wl4=pla-1213062686050&wl5=9031049&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=192163045&wl11=online&wl12=473679424&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8IaGBhCHARIsAGIRRYqSHWgY43RloxaIw3h2OzQS4RHfL3XAkYLhrGkzB0RjlclNEcuSufMaAqxyEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Which is also the same roll a friend gave me back in the early 1980s.

[bigbossman]

Winchester model 70, pillar bedded with PC 7:

[G-forceJunkie]

Ive used Marinetex and Devcon, prefer the devcon. Use Kiwi neutral shoe polish as a release.

[Epaphroditus]

+1 for PC7 just because I have lots of it.

Beeswax (have lots, also) and made real thin by hitting it with a hair dryer after fingertip application.

PC7 can take a while to cure so it's plenty easy to clean up over squeeze before it cures.

[desertrider]

Don't forget JB Weld. Probably cheaper than most of the others you listed for same result.

Neutral shoe polish also works just fine for a release agent.

Not sure you need to relieve anything, I've got some pretty thin spots that are lasting just fine. Unless you are talking paper thin, there is not a significant difference between thick and thin as long as the epoxy has a decent surface to mechanically latch onto.

Just be careful about mechanical locks where the bedding gets into some nook or cranny. Plumber's putty works fine, comes off easily with mineral spirits, even the neutered stuff available here in CA. Modeling clay not so much.

Mask off areas of the stock you don't want to get epoxy stuck to. Feel free to overdo this part as I guarantee that one spot you didn't think would be a problem will be THE spot that a lot more excess epoxy squeezes out of and dribbles down the stock when you leave the project to go watch gun jesus for a couple hours.

I definitely plan on putting time and attention into prep. Release agent and taping all areas that will be affected by "squeeze out".

I use whatever I can find usually JB Weld or Marine Tex and any color kiwi shoe wax.
I tape it all off and use model clay because that is what I have and it was cheap.
I don't have any of the fancy T type handles so I just used all thread and some rubber fishing tubing.
You also won't be able to remove much of that aluminum bedding block at home unless you have a mill. A common die grinder or Dremel Tool will just scratch the surface but that's okay.
I use vinegar and plenty of paper towels to remove the excess epoxy and it works very well.

You asked for advice as well so do this and tell us what you find out.
On an empty chamber close the bolt handle on a very skinny piece of newspaper and using finger pressure will it slide out without tearing.
Repeat after dry firing will it slide out?
The HS Precision stocks tend to rub on the bolt handle and that will hurt your accuracy more than the bedding but I bed them anyways.

I don't have a mill, but I've used my angled air grinder with tungsten carbide ball cutters for porting cylinder heads. I'll go slow and take my time.

I'll check the bolt handle clearance against the stock. Thanks for the heads up.

I've used Acra Glass and Devcon, Devcon has a better consistency and is less messy as it usually stays where I put it and is not as "sticky".

Since three posters replied that they use Devcon I'll give it a shot. Your input about Devcon "staying put" and not being overly "sticky" sounds like it'll be more manageable to work with.

Thanks for all the info and advice!

[bigbossman]

I've had great results using PC 7. It is available at Ace Hardware, is thick, cures slowly, doesn't shrink, and is pretty inexpensive to buy.

https://www.amazon.com/PC-Products-167779-Two-Part-Multipurpose/dp/B000BOHJJ0/ref=asc_df_B000BOHJJ0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193125398339&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7737048437020016904&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029590&hvtargid=pla-307612616373&psc=1

Regular old car wax ( I use carnuba) works great as a release agent, too.

[maxx03]

I've used Acra Glass and Devcon, Devcon has a better consistency and is less messy as it usually stays where I put it and is not as "sticky".

[yacko]

Lynn,

What side of the bolt handle do you see the problem? Or are you 'wrapping the paper around the handle so front, bottom, rear all have newspaper? I dont have an HS, but curious and want to check some stocks...

[MongooseV8]

Ive used devcon and jb weld many times. Prep and a good release agent will be the keys to a good job.

[LynnJr]

I use whatever I can find usually JB Weld or Marine Tex and any color kiwi shoe wax.
I tape it all off and use model clay because that is what I have and it was cheap.
I don't have any of the fancy T type handles so I just used all thread and some rubber fishing tubing.
You also won't be able to remove much of that aluminum bedding block at home unless you have a mill. A common die grinder or Dremel Tool will just scratch the surface but that's okay.
I use vinegar and plenty of paper towels to remove the excess epoxy and it works very well.

You asked for advice as well so do this and tell us what you find out.
On an empty chamber close the bolt handle on a very skinny piece of newspaper and using finger pressure will it slide out without tearing.
Repeat after dry firing will it slide out?
The HS Precision stocks tend to rub on the bolt handle and that will hurt your accuracy more than the bedding but I bed them anyways.

[baih777]

i use Devcon.

Take your time. I use blue painters tape.
Mold release is just.as.important as the bedding compound.