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DIY M&P magazine mods **56k read a book**

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  • #31
    9mmepiphany
    Calguns Addict
    • Jul 2008
    • 8075

    Originally posted by hossb7
    Does it harden at all? Or does it stay the consistency of play-doh? If it doesn't harden then it would probably fall out from handling.
    It hardens with exposure to air...it has the consistency of the rubber coating out pliers.

    I've used it to contour the grip on my M&P. I built up the area for the web of my hand, built up the backstrap from Med to not quite LG and added a palm swell on the right side
    ...because the journey is the worthier part...The Shepherd's Tale

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    • #32
      hossb7
      Veteran Member
      • Jul 2006
      • 3285

      Originally posted by 9mmepiphany
      It hardens with exposure to air...it has the consistency of the rubber coating out pliers.

      I've used it to contour the grip on my M&P. I built up the area for the web of my hand, built up the backstrap from Med to not quite LG and added a palm swell on the right side
      Oh cool deal. Yeah, I've never heard of that stuff but I can see it working pretty well if you cut the baseplate first then apply/shape that stuff.

      I only used JB weld because of it's strength.

      Also, using a dremel is fun.
      We in Bangor, Maine now baby.

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      • #33
        Whiterabbit
        Calguns Addict
        • Oct 2010
        • 7586

        Originally posted by 9mmepiphany
        Thanks...just curious, is there a reason you'd fill the recesses before cutting, rather than after?
        because if you cut then fill, you have to file TWICE. if you fill first, you clean the molding and finish the desired shape in one shot. Much better to fill first.

        As for the alternative material, strength or hardness are not what is most desirable, it is adhesion. If it doesn't stick to the baseplate, then nothing else matters. And that includes adhesion under recoil.

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        • #34
          hossb7
          Veteran Member
          • Jul 2006
          • 3285

          Originally posted by Whiterabbit
          because if you cut then fill, you have to file TWICE. if you fill first, you clean the molding and finish the desired shape in one shot. Much better to fill first.

          As for the alternative material, strength or hardness are not what is most desirable, it is adhesion. If it doesn't stick to the baseplate, then nothing else matters. And that includes adhesion under recoil.
          Good points.

          I chose to file the base to be flush, then cut, then file again, but the first filing step could have been combined with the last.

          edit: after thinking about the process again, you're probably going to have to file twice regardless. after filing to make the weld flush with the bottom of the baseplate it was much easier to mark the magazine in terms of where to cut.

          Also, excellent note about adhesion. Adhesion during recoil is important, tho I don't know how much energy the base of the magazine gets during recoil. I'd be more worried about adhesion during reloads (both with regards to handling the magazines and dropping them on the ground).
          Last edited by hossb7; 02-24-2014, 12:16 PM.
          We in Bangor, Maine now baby.

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