Springfield 1911 in a million pieces. Re-assembly tips

[Onlyincali]

Ok, I just disassembled my 1911. Every single piece of it. Supposedly the gun had trigger work. How do I tell if it was done right, or at all? What parts do I need to check for wear? Is there anything I should polish up while it's apart? Last...what do I use for oil/grease etc for reassembly of all these tiny parts? It appears there WAS graphite grease on it.

Thanks! You guys are always helpful!

[checkenbach]

Do yourself a favor and buy a copy of "The Colt .45 Automatic, A Shop Manual" (Vol. 1), by Jerry Kuhnhausen. Everything you need to know about 1911's and more.

[1 SIG fan]

[ojisan]

A couple of helpful links:

http://www.m1911.org/technic.htm

[M. D. Van Norman]

[Chief-7700]

This may help:

http://warlockfirearms.blogspot.com/2010/05/complete-disassembly-and-detail.html

[Onlyincali]

So there is no need for this thick graphite grease ANYWHERE on the pistol? Just oil on everything?

[Onlyincali]

Just read that entire warlock link above. It says DO NOT oil any internal parts. Only grease on rails. Really? No oil on sear, disconnector, extractor, or anything?

[Smoker03]

No oil on sear, disconnector or extractor

[TMC]

Just read that entire warlock link above. It says DO NOT oil any internal parts. Only grease on rails. Really? No oil on sear, disconnector, extractor, or anything?

One guys opinion, mine along with many others is to oil the internals. Oil does not "collect" dust it just sticks to it better than than dry parts BUT the fire control parts move and metal on metal is not good especially the hammer which is a high speed part. The hammer and sear and their pins need is a light coat on the sides where they rub the frame and a drop on the pins. Oil or grease on the rails is fine, the brand doesn't really mater. The barrel link needs some oil or grease and the barrel feet where they ride on the slide stop pin needs bit too.

The sear spring, plungers, and main spring don't need oil.

[guns_and_labs]

If you don't want to read Kuhnhausen, you can pick up the AGI DVD on assembly and disassembly.

The pre-internet guys that taught me believed in a very thin coat of oil on the internals, and grease on the rails. I now wash the parts with Prolix, and let them dry - Prolix provides a slight coating that protects and lubricates. I use a very light grease (Enos light slide glide), or a heavy oil (Wilson Ultima-lube) on the rails.

As for checking for wear, you'll know it when you see it - but you're probably thousands of rounds short for that to be an issue.

Checking for a trigger job is sometimes easy, sometimes tough. The telltale signs of a trigger job that you can spot are polishing on the correct surfaces (see Kuhnhausen above) and changes to the engagement angles and surfaces.

[Army]

Hammer and sear pins should be lubed prior to insertion. LIGHT (as in just barely, as in takes a magnifying glass to see it) lube on the outside of the trigger bow. Lithium grease, lightly, on the rails.All other parts can be oiled for protection (or use a silicone cloth), but be sure to wipe them clean before assembly (some oil penetrates the surface, that's all you need to slow or stop rust). Far too many people use far too much lube and oils on their firearms. A sheen is all you need, anything more simply drips or is shaken off during firing.Look at your guns, all the areas that show wear, or acts as a pivot point, is where it needs lube to fight friction.