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Nice, I was debating on picking that up as well. I was going in for the Dan as well, but saw the barrel issue. After, debating I decided I'll solder it back again. Wouldn't be the first time.
Get yourself a muzzle break. I got one of these on my R1: https://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Air_V...ID_855_OD/4753
This on my R7: https://www.archerairguns.com/Univer...rsalmuzbrk.htm
It will also cover where the front post grooves are. -
Wooooow!! I would have bought that Dan if the post had a ad had a pic. If anything I would have taken the wood and put on a different Dan. Great pick up indeed.
Yes that intermount is fine. It's the earlier models that had the screws going directly into the joint you don't want to use. Either way the screws only need to be snug. I find so many mount and ring screws tightened beyond belief. If you don't like the idea of using them for a traditional scope set up. Try a scout set up, which is using a pistol scope and the set up is further out on the barrel.
To remove the valve to do your own solder you need to order The Tool from baker airgun: https://www.bakerairguns.com/product...amin-sheridan/
Since the rifle is holding you won't need another reseal Kit. I believe Tim charges per clean time during a solder job. If you send him a cleaned and valve free rifle it will cost $25. If not I believe he still charges.Comment
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Oh, you can make your own tool to remove that bolt lug from the bolt. Go to your local hardware store and to the drawer aisle and get that these 3 pieces. The screw has a hex head meant for an Allen. Which will go over the bolt lug and you will be able to loosen. I got a nut and wing nut to give the tool a handle.
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