We don't know the speed of the mover. Looks like typical walking pace, however. The formulas, as I found out, are an estimation at best. It takes shooting them and developing a sense for where to hold.
Another fly in the ointment...say you're at 600 yards, shooting a mover and the wind is blowing 9 to 3 o'clock. Do you adjust for wind? How much? Do you hold off differently each time as the target moves back and forth? I've had great results by adjusting for the average wind, and holding the same lead for all shots (both right and left moving). Some hold off for everything. It just takes shooting 'em a bit.
Some people really prefer the ambush method and can kick a** using it. For multiple moving targets, the tracking method is easiest for me. Again, each person has to try the different methods and see what works best for them. I've had pretty good results using both.
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Moving Targets
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Ok.. seriously.. here's what I worked out for up to 1000 yds. This chart will give you the amount of lead you need in MILS.
0ooh.. i should convert it to MOA to dial it in.. that would be kinda nice. If you're interested, just multiply the values by 3.6 and round to the nearest factor of .25.
Along the top is the target speed in feet per second. Time is the amount of time the bullet (M118 175gr but it'll be close enough for 168 match loads or whatever) will require to reach a target. If you use Excel, here's the formula I used.. you can plug it in and change/ add the speeds at the top or distances along the side.
Formula used at C2 though it'll work in any of the cells:
=(($B2*C$1*12)-6)/($A2*0.036)
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You are correct - it's generally used on singluar targets.Leave a comment:
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No.. he figures he's too manly for a gun. He's going pop out from behind a bush and stab the target with a knife instead.Leave a comment:
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They apply.. but in the opposite direction. Since you're the one moving, you shoot BEFORE you get to the target and just let it "drift in." Just remember that all objects on the vehicle are already moving at the speed of the vehicle. Sorta the same logic as why you wouldn't hit the back of the train if you jumped up while inside of it.Leave a comment:
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same principles, but much harder if your the one moving on a bouncy road. unstable shooting flatform.Last edited by PistolPete75; 11-01-2007, 10:38 PM.Leave a comment:
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so, do these methods apply during a drive by if the truck is moving and the people errr.... coyote is standing still?Leave a comment:
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Pete
Shoot off your ruck so you have movement of the rifle. Ambush style is ok for a shot or two but if have multiple shots in a given time its best to lead and follow through and you'll need to be able to move your rifle smoothly to do so.Leave a comment:
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A rabbit running left to right at about 15 paces I put the PISTOL on his snout. A coyote running the same but already out at 100 yards I'd put about a foot lead into him (in front of him) (say about the edge of the barrel).
About the only way I can explain it withou the use of diagrams and flowcharts!!!!Leave a comment:
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thats what I meant by kentuck windage. Its a cross between lead distance and the speed of the critter AND whether its running straight left or right away from you or running STRAIGHT away from you. Distance to target increases the lead significantly...
But can I quantify it? Nope. Just years of practice on Duck, Pheasent, Dove..and even a couple of deer, lots of coyotes, rabbits....etc.
But then again....I've used a scope for the 4 legged critters and a SG for the flyers; all just take/took some practice.Leave a comment:
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Ahhh Ok, had me thinking strange and nefarious things there for a bitWish i could help more but I've always done the "kentucy windage" for years and cant begin to 'splain to people....thats about the extent of leading that I know of.
So count this as a tag for me to get educated tooLeave a comment:
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