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  #1  
Old 12-24-2018, 10:50 PM
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Default 2011 1911 double stack .40/10mm ongoing build with pics

For years I've wanted a monolithic 1911 with the full dust cover I had a decent year financially and decided I needed a winter stay busy project. My goal is a CA compliant 2011 double stack in .40 S&W I chose this caliber because most of my autoloading pistols are .40 and I like the idea of fitting a .40 and a 10mm barrel and swapping barrels and springs to have both calibers. The compatibility between 10mm and .40 would make this extremely easy (at least in theory)

The goal is to get as close to this as possible, inspired by the pistol Vincent Volaju carries in the "cowboy bebop" film.





The grip/trigger/mag release were a great deal thanks to a a calgunner getting rid of a NIB set for a great price, the frame was a limited 10 Heavyweight 1911 80% - Carbon Steel, Eric was was nice enough to hook me up with a 1" dust cover piece I planned to weld onto the frame.

The 10mm barrel and slide were a budget priced matched set which required some fitting of the hood, as of right now the lockup is ridiculously tight, might require even more filing of the hood but, I feel its better to be safe and leave extra materials. The .40 barrel I have not attempted to fit yet, as I'm saving that as towards the end for highest accuracy and tightest fit the 10mm I see as more important to be reliable and if that means loosening some tolerances at the cost of accuracy so be it.

mock up of extended slide piece/frame grip slide and barrel obviously uncut rails and needs bead blasting and a cerekote to match.

[IMG][/IMG]



The frame rails were cut using matrix jig, and the slide was driven over the rails back and forth with a soft blow rubber mallet and a steel sledge and a block of wood 400 grit was used for final lapping, there is a light play I am not happy with but I am not concerned it will affect accuracy or fit.

a makeshift jig was made from a flat piece of bar stock I had and the frame and dust cover were beveledat the meeting point and slowly fill-welded and then ground flush with a dremel and sanding drum.




AL foil protects from welding spatter



starting to look like a real 1911



I realize I am probably going to have to cut approximately 1/8" off the dust cover where the slide stop naturally stops this is going to be probably the last thing I do before bead blast/cerekote



like an idiot I ordered a BUSHING style spring cap when I should have ordered a REVERSE cap. considering how long I waited for the parts I decided to make one on my lathe at least till a factory made stainless/heat treated quality part arrives and hold off on ordering anything till I realize 100% what I need. (reverse cap, barrel link kit guide rod buffers etc etc) I will update the project as I go along.

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Old 12-25-2018, 7:14 AM
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I love it!!!!
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Old 12-25-2018, 8:07 AM
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Trying to understand the use of the word

Monolithic....
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Old 12-25-2018, 3:13 PM
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Quote:
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Trying to understand the use of the word

Monolithic....
Something that looks like it was carved from a single piece of granite. A seamless slab of rock.

firing pin retainer filed and stoned to fit, a lot of material was removed


I was not happy with the extractor seemed VERY loose and would not reliably grip a 10mm cartridge, I bent it inward using a vise, center punch and drill bit cranking it down a little and test fitting. It holds a 10mm very snugly, possibly too tight but it can be adjusted back.







Much more blending, hopefully this will completely dissapear after the beadblast and cerekote





Unfortunately my pin jig did not fit the wider frame I purchased so I opted to clamp the frame to the jig's side and drill 4 holes from the exterior THROUGH THE JIG TWICE, it seems in spec I'll find out when its time to play with the trigger group, I used a basic hand held drill.


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Old 12-26-2018, 9:57 AM
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Blending the beaver tail using a electrical tape, started with a coarse dremel sanding drum, to a light grit sanding drum, finished with 100 grit sandpaper.



before sandpaper


The extractor appears far to aggressive, I am experiencing feeding issues, I'm going to remove it and check feeding and then possibly adjust spring less and stone to accept brass. I am noticing it actually cuts the rim of the brass just enough create a burr. I Believe I probably need to cut the feet back as well to give more "running room" from mag to feed ramp.

Lockup is still extremely tight running a test 14 lb (NOT RECOMMENDED FOR A 10MM)

Ejector needs a 3/32 bit to cut for a roll-pin I'm not happy with how my ejector currently fits, probably going to purchase a new one and start fresh they are only $25. I might leave the one I have through first test round for R&D purposes.
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Old 12-26-2018, 10:10 PM
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pins seem ok, they were countersunk with a slightly larger bit I ran the sear bit through the frame for a bit fit was TIGHT without any sear parts.



ambi safety was cut/filed/stoned on both sides as it had interference with the frame. Something is wrong it is NOT self retaining on the Left handed side, falls out even with slide attached I think I may have purchased the wrong size/shape. add another item to the list of stuff to buy.




Need to cut a big chunk of material out of the barrel feet on the 10mm and probably the .40 barrel, I noticed the minor cutter is exactly the same as a 5mm end mill, I'm wondering if I can use a metric end-mill and my baby mill to machine the barrel without buying a slide pin fitting kit. I already made a barrel holding fixture that pins the barrel into the lugs in battery for the fun of it.




LOT of material probably needs to be blended down after the final barrel fit




getting closer.... keeping me busy during the slow season for my work.

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Old 12-27-2018, 12:54 AM
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I was thinking of this exact same setup on the same Vincent Volaju SV pistol. I have the other two noteworthy cowboy bebop guns already, but this is something I’d love to have sometime.
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Old 12-27-2018, 11:48 AM
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I've been looking for Spike's jericho 941 for a while now, the price on those things seems to be rising every year; for a surplus military issue gun I'm kinda surprised how valuable they are. I'd love to get one thats seen a few year duty with holster wear and scuffs everything.
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Old 12-27-2018, 12:08 PM
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Looks like a cool project. Keep us posted. Can’t wait to see how it turns out.
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Old 12-27-2018, 12:39 PM
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The Ceracoat job will tighten up the 400 grit lapped fit between frame and slide.
Beware that you might need to re-fit the barrel after the frame and slide are finished.
How much link swing travel do you have beyond 90 degrees? It looks like the slide needs to be let back another 0.020” or more for the safety notch in the front to better fit the thumb safety.
Get that right before you blend the back or trim the dust over to finish length!
The extractor foot that sets the engagement might need to be trimmed to get a proper grip before you set the tension to 24 ounces with the little brass pull-put gauge. Don’t over-trim though. You only want about 0.005” or so of extra engagement or you create problems with the extractor coming over the rim and you have to deepen the extractor clearance.
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Last edited by ar15barrels; 12-27-2018 at 12:46 PM..
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Old 12-28-2018, 9:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
The Ceracoat job will tighten up the 400 grit lapped fit between frame and slide.
Beware that you might need to re-fit the barrel after the frame and slide are finished.
How much link swing travel do you have beyond 90 degrees? It looks like the slide needs to be let back another 0.020 or more for the safety notch in the front to better fit the thumb safety.
Get that right before you blend the back or trim the dust over to finish length!
The extractor foot that sets the engagement might need to be trimmed to get a proper grip before you set the tension to 24 ounces with the little brass pull-put gauge. Dont over-trim though. You only want about 0.005 or so of extra engagement or you create problems with the extractor coming over the rim and you have to deepen the extractor clearance.
Thank you for the input I am a bit concerned the cerakote is gonna tighten things up a bit I'm going to avoid the underside of slide completely to mitigate changing the surfaces.

Thats a good question, I've been racking my brain trying to figure that one out, how to measure that link angle during full battery. At the moment I am only goofing around with the 10mm barrel and I've got to change the feet engagement quite a bit as far as I can tell the slide stop is not even resting against the true current rounded spot only the beginning of the feet cut, its at least .125" forward than it should be. As I said earlier I have a barrel holding jig but I might set up a baby mill and shave .001-002" at a time on a small mill and stone/polish.

Oh I know, everything slide to frame cosmetic fit is going to be the last of the last on this thing, I'm going to put 50 reliable rounds through it, work out all the bugs before that, I don't want to have to blend the muzzle or even the hammer area twice.
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Old 12-29-2018, 9:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repoman1984 View Post
I've been racking my brain trying to figure that one out, how to measure that link angle during full battery. At the moment I am only goofing around with the 10mm barrel and I've got to change the feet engagement quite a bit as far as I can tell the slide stop is not even resting against the true current rounded spot only the beginning of the feet cut, its at least .125" forward than it should be. As I said earlier I have a barrel holding jig but I might set up a baby mill and shave .001-002" at a time on a small mill and stone/polish.
I use a Weigand fitting jig to cut the barrel feet like this:



This allows you to indicate the centerline of the pin hole for the lug pin and then know how far back your cut is where the barrel will seat against the slide stop pin.
Weigand's instructions give you this dimension.

That distance is actually cut at 1.5 degrees and is what gets that lovely CLICK when the barrel locks up.
I use a 5mm carbide endmill to cut that angle and the final radius ends up about 0.002" tight, but that's quite close enough to the 0.200" slide stop pin diameter.

Even without the Weigand jig, you can setup the barrel in the mill, indicate to the center of the link pin hole in the feet, then move straight down by your link length and measure back with a 0.200" gauge pin in the spindle until it touches the stop surface.
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Last edited by ar15barrels; 12-29-2018 at 9:50 PM..
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Old 12-30-2018, 10:46 AM
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I love that jig design, considering I'm going to be shaving .002" a time I think I can whip up a crude jig out of some 1018 mild steel that uses a stud through the link pin hole as a reference point and a simple clamping setup with some basic trigonometry to get that sweet 1.5 degree slope final lockup. Then stone, and probably a dremel with a cotton buffer wheel and some polish paste, I'm thinking.
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Old 12-30-2018, 9:42 PM
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Using a trig calculator a span of 6" @ 1.5 degrees would mean the height different should be exactly .160" if I'm doing my math right.

the jig mock up, the barrel sits on a bit turned to slightly below .154 Dia and a thickness of .164" bringing the feet aligned with the base flat and level, the end is turned down to .136" dia so it can be tapped for 6-32 thread and a giant nut can hold barrel against the jig with great repeatability for the "cutting-checking-cutting-checking cutting-checking" process. obviously I'll be using some C clamps during the actual cuts.


needs to be threaded and welded to the jig base.





spacer, .152 boss, threaded portion (not yet)

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Old 01-17-2019, 8:17 PM
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work has been running me ragged lately 70 hours a week. Barly any time to mess around in the shop. Artists depiction below.




threaded 6-32 for a big 6-32 nut to squeeze the barrel onto the "jig-sinebar", I might use a lug cutter, debating this one back and forth....



Fitting the ambi saftey




using the very best equipment imaginable to file the edge, a 60 year old vise I welded together after it broke and a dirty rag.







I think I effed-up the firing pin retainer the hammer will not lock back when drawing the slide to the rear only true single action, I'm not certain but I think I should have left more "meat" on the lower portion to force the hammer down.

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Old 01-17-2019, 9:28 PM
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Originally Posted by repoman1984 View Post
I think I effed-up the firing pin retainer the hammer will not lock back when drawing the slide to the rear only true single action,
I'm not certain but I think I should have left more "meat" on the lower portion to force the hammer down.
With the slide back so that the hammer is cocked as far as the SLIDE will take the hammer, if you pull back on the hammer with your thumb and pointer finger, does the hammer then go to full cock?

If so either your sear and hammer hole spacing is off or your sear is too long or your rails on the frame were cut too high.

The fix is to shorten the sear until the hammer will pick up the sear while the slide is holding the hammer as far back as the slide CAN hold the hammer.
You have it right when you can move the slide back with the hammer already cocked and the slide moves the hammer an extra 0.020" (at the highest point of the cocked hammer) in order for the slide to pass the hammer.
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Last edited by ar15barrels; 01-17-2019 at 9:31 PM..
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Old 01-18-2019, 9:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
With the slide back so that the hammer is cocked as far as the SLIDE will take the hammer, if you pull back on the hammer with your thumb and pointer finger, does the hammer then go to full cock?

If so either your sear and hammer hole spacing is off or your sear is too long or your rails on the frame were cut too high.

The fix is to shorten the sear until the hammer will pick up the sear while the slide is holding the hammer as far back as the slide CAN hold the hammer.
You have it right when you can move the slide back with the hammer already cocked and the slide moves the hammer an extra 0.020" (at the highest point of the cocked hammer) in order for the slide to pass the hammer.

Yes, the hammer can be cocked/half cocked manually with a thumb, it certainly is not in contact with the slide after its cocked, I need to get some shims to measure it exactly but its definitely clearing by over .020" in fully cocked position. I did get an "economy brand" sear/disconnecter set, I was looking for EGW which I've heard nothing but great things about (Mosin Virus even used the set IIRC) but, nobody had them in stock. I'm going to try filing the sear back a bit, the width of the sear itself was a bit on the fat side, wouldn't "drop in" more like a "push" into the frame, I kissed both sides with a stone till it was a drop in fit. Thank you for the advice.
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Old 01-18-2019, 9:54 AM
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Originally Posted by repoman1984 View Post
Yes, the hammer can be cocked/half cocked manually with a thumb, it certainly is not in contact with the slide after its cocked, I need to get some shims to measure it exactly but its definitely clearing by over .020" in fully cocked position. I did get an "economy brand" sear/disconnecter set, I was looking for EGW which I've heard nothing but great things about (Mosin Virus even used the set IIRC) but, nobody had them in stock. I'm going to try filing the sear back a bit, the width of the sear itself was a bit on the fat side, wouldn't "drop in" more like a "push" into the frame, I kissed both sides with a stone till it was a drop in fit. Thank you for the advice.
Make sure you keep the sear nose square so it bears across the whole hammer.
There are stoning jigs for this job.
Its around 5 to 10:1 on how much the hammer will come up vs how much material you remove so only take off 0.002 at a time.
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Old 02-06-2019, 9:43 PM
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sear was filed slowly and carefully till it locked properly and dragged against the slide slightly, new safety required some fitting but properly engages and clears.


new ejector drilled/ pinned filed and stoned



MUCH cleaner fit, some of the hammer retainer material was removed. waiting to adjust length and angle of ejector nose till the slide is fit properly.



current progress. waiting on lug cutting tool in the mail

left to do:
cut lugs
tune extractor
final tune ejector
TEST FIRE

final blend front/rear
bead blast
cerekote or blue....?
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Old 02-07-2019, 2:35 PM
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Blocky sharp unrefined extractor.


polished front, chamfered bottom of the extractor for the big wide open "pick up" and a lot of just general polishing with a rubber grit dremel tool.




FIRING PIN REMOVED FOR TESTING.


gripping nicely, "snapping" around case head very well. Gonna be waiting on my lug cutter tool....

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Old 02-15-2019, 12:11 AM
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Old 02-15-2019, 12:12 AM
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Old 02-15-2019, 12:14 AM
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Old 02-15-2019, 3:56 AM
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Looking great, OP! Monolith is next on my list as well. Shame we can’t get Monolith Baer’s in CA!
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Old 02-15-2019, 8:48 AM
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oh crap!
those feet are butchered.
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Old 02-15-2019, 9:39 AM
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oh crap!
those feet are butchered.


I used a brownells cutter and locked the barrel into battery using my own action locking bar and measured the angle against both sides of the slide before cutting with a gallon of lithium grease. The last photo is out of order that was before I cut the feet when the slide would not come to full rest where it should. Currently the lockup is fairly tight but the barrel is resting in full battery measured against the slide and visual inspection dead center of a primer down the FP hole.
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Old 02-15-2019, 3:16 PM
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I used a brownells cutter and locked the barrel into battery using my own action locking bar and measured the angle against both sides of the slide before cutting with a gallon of lithium grease. The last photo is out of order that was before I cut the feet when the slide would not come to full rest where it should. Currently the lockup is fairly tight but the barrel is resting in full battery measured against the slide and visual inspection dead center of a primer down the FP hole.
Maybe you just need to deburr them and stone then to clean them up then.

They should look like this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by repoman1984 View Post
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Old 02-19-2019, 12:10 AM
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To clear up confusion prior posts the shot of the slide stop were before the cutting of the feet, the cut photo was before polishing and still covered in a salad of metal chips and lithium grease.

Ejector was cut about 3/16" back enough to eject an unfired 10mm catridge and then rounded and polished.

Saftey being fitted nice clean SNAP safe/fire



Wilson extended slide release does not like 2011 frames but its really nice on a big fat frame, Mosin Virus bent his, I trimmed a tad off the frame.



Polishing the 10 mm barrel (economy brand) really could use some tuning, rubber dremel bits are a blessing for some soft blending.




The .40 barrel is ALMOST drop in with a #3 link. almost seems 1/32" to far back of where the 10mm sits, looks great in my opinion. I have still yet to blend as this needs to be the LAST thing so the dust cover hangs a but but, I'm loving the Bull .40 barrel which is a match grade that is going to be my primary setup the 10mm... IDK just 10mm is effing awesome?

The real trick is going to get the SAME EXACT travel of feet between the 10/40 barrels so the rear blend looks good but 40 is gonna be my fave ofcourse I'm a .40 fanboy own a bunch of glocks in 40 40 40 40....

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Old 02-19-2019, 12:42 AM
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The villain "Vincent Valaju" sports an SV infinty 6.0 shooting it out with the main protagonist "Spike Speigel " in the Film "knocking on heaven's door"



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Old 02-19-2019, 1:23 AM
mtenenhaus mtenenhaus is online now
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looks awesome
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Old 02-22-2019, 9:53 PM
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Default Having issues nosediving on the feed ramps

The 10mm isn't so bad (certainly not perfect) but the .40 is having trouble heading up the ramp. I'm looking at the clearance of the mags to the slide and it looks to be at least .125" of room I can raise the mags without issue, The mag catch appears to have potential to have a glob of weld filed and fit to raise the mag much higher. the mags are contacting the front of the frame (as seen in the scuff marks on the mags) the current plan is to grind down the front of the magwell to raise the mags as high as possible and modify the mag catch.

Scuffs where contact is being made stopping mag travel




scuffs on frame to be sanded down above the mag catch, mag catch to be raised up.
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Old 02-23-2019, 10:52 AM
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I cannot see most of your pics they come our in bands or color like looking through colored cellophane, maybe just me but make smaller?

Thanks for showing great progect.
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Old 02-28-2019, 6:49 PM
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Default Feeding issues feeding issues feeding issues.

10mm was OK but .40 was jamming a lot specifically nosediving into the feedramp and bullet was being crammed into the case, also having issues self adjust angle to go into chamber even when feeding up.

step#1 was to weld mag match .100-.150" higher to hold the factory oem mags higher.

BEFORE


AFTER



after more issues feedramp/throats polished like crazy


After some hesitation in chambering I cleaned the gun and greased everything and its slamming 1-10 home in 10mm and 1-10 .40 no problem even with the anemic 14 lb test spring (NOT MEANT FOR .40 or 10mm)
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Old 02-28-2019, 6:54 PM
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The feet were cut slightly on the .40 barrel (till rear pieces aligned) and then I hit an issue using a standard #3 link the slide was being held back maybe .05" of an inch I switched to a #5 link and it seems to rest perfectly ready for blending.

At the moment I need to double check lug engagement for both barrels and if they pass I need to take them to the test range with the proper weight spring installed and test fire. If all goes well I'm in the final stretch need to blend the rear, blend the front and polish some internals and then bead-blast and cerekote or blue or something...?
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Old 02-28-2019, 8:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repoman1984 View Post
10mm was OK but .40 was jamming a lot specifically nosediving into the feedramp and bullet was being crammed into the case, also having issues self adjust angle to go into chamber even when feeding up.

after more issues feedramp/throats polished like crazy


After some hesitation in chambering I cleaned the gun and greased everything and its slamming 1-10 home in 10mm and 1-10 .40 no problem even with the anemic 14 lb test spring (NOT MEANT FOR .40 or 10mm)
I see the problem...
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Old 02-28-2019, 8:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repoman1984 View Post
The feet were cut slightly on the .40 barrel (till rear pieces aligned) and then I hit an issue using a standard #3 link the slide was being held back maybe .05" of an inch I switched to a #5 link and it seems to rest perfectly ready for blending.

At the moment I need to double check lug engagement for both barrels and if they pass I need to take them to the test range with the proper weight spring installed and test fire. If all goes well I'm in the final stretch need to blend the rear, blend the front and polish some internals and then bead-blast and cerekote or blue or something...?
You over-cut the barrel if you had to re-link it during fitting.
The link length became insufficient as you weakened the barrel feet and caused the link to swing further than it's supposed to.

You are not supposed to cut the barrel to adjust where the slide stops.
The feet usually come pre-cut where they are supposed to be.
You only cut the feet to get lockup on the slide stop pin.
You should not advance the slide rearward.
The frame and slide should be cut to match AFTER the barrel lockup is right.
Switch caliber guns get complete top ends built to allow the different extractor, spring tension and fitting work for each barrel to all match the frame.
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Old 02-28-2019, 8:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
You over-cut the barrel if you had to re-link it during fitting.
The link length became insufficient as you weakened the barrel feet and caused the link to swing further than it's supposed to.

You are not supposed to cut the barrel to adjust where the slide stops.
The feet usually come pre-cut where they are supposed to be.
You only cut the feet to get lockup on the slide stop pin.
You should not advance the slide rearward.
The frame and slide should be cut to match AFTER the barrel lockup is right.
Switch caliber guns get complete top ends built to allow the different extractor, spring tension and fitting work for each barrel to all match the frame.
I thought the feet were always cut if they were to be cut with the slide locked in full battery, angled in perfect batter, held with a bar and the slide is run forward against a tool till the slide aligns with the frame. literally .020-.030" were removed.


EDIT

both barrels were check for locking before feet were cut and were pressed in full battery while being cut.


It's my understanding the feet drive the barrel up into battery, the link is only there to retract it out of battery and if the link is too short it will not give the feet enough room to force the barrel up and into proper full engaged lock.
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Last edited by repoman1984; 02-28-2019 at 8:29 PM..
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Old 02-28-2019, 8:38 PM
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Great thread. All detail appreciated. How the heck did Mr. Browning possibly accomplish what he did back in the day?
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Old 02-28-2019, 9:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabikefreak View Post
Great thread. All detail appreciated. How the heck did Mr. Browning possibly accomplish what he did back in the day?
Thank you, I appreciate all the commentary from the posts and help moving this project along.

I just measured the verticle lock

the 10mm appears to be vertically engaging .053"
the 40 appears to be verttically engaging .056"

just for fun I used my "homemade locking bar" and it appears the pansy 14lb spring is giving each barrel an additional .001" vertical travel up so it would suggest the slope of the feet is ok, I also dykemed the slide stop pin and checked rubbing points and its pressing nice and hard into the feet in full battery forward with rotational tension. The math/marking/tension strongly suggests the feet are pressing the vertical lock nicely into the slide.



cut stoned/polished feet



my math/measurements each barrel appears to be engaging at least .053" into the lugs which is within spec.


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Old 03-01-2019, 6:02 AM
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Can I put in an order for one of these when you're done?
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