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  #81  
Old 03-30-2011, 3:30 PM
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Hot summer days are around the corner. Now is the time to do this if you haven't already.
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  #82  
Old 03-31-2011, 8:11 PM
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great thread!! thanks again lancer
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  #83  
Old 04-01-2011, 11:27 AM
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So you will do mine for $40? lol
  #84  
Old 04-01-2011, 4:45 PM
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So you will do mine for $40? lol
If you are talking to me... I'm only available on the weekends so it would be overimte rate of $120 an hour 4 hour minimum...
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  #85  
Old 04-01-2011, 5:51 PM
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Thanks Lancear15! I'm going to do mine right now.
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  #86  
Old 04-01-2011, 7:08 PM
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Thanks Lancear15! I'm going to do mine right now.
Sweet, good luck!
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  #87  
Old 04-02-2011, 10:52 AM
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Sweet, good luck!
The exchanger didn't look dirty but when I took a brush and garden hose to it an unexpected amount of sediment ran off.
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  #88  
Old 04-04-2011, 6:09 PM
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The exchanger didn't look dirty but when I took a brush and garden hose to it an unexpected amount of sediment ran off.
So much build up came out when I cleaned mine I'm surprised it was still working. Glad it worked out for you.
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  #89  
Old 04-13-2011, 5:44 PM
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Very dirty as you can see, a combination of dog hair, vegetation debris, and dirt.

6. vacuum up the large debris inside and out, move the vacuum hose up and down on the heat exchanger so you don't bend the fins. Also be careful not to cut yourself on the sharp fins.

Grainger actually sells a "Phin comb" for about $7.00, that would be a great tool to buy if your AC phins dont look.straight anymore.
  #90  
Old 04-23-2011, 2:45 PM
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Grainger actually sells a "Phin comb" for about $7.00, that would be a great tool to buy if your AC phins dont look.straight anymore.
Good to know, thanks.
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  #91  
Old 04-25-2011, 1:02 PM
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Mine needed a new run cap this season, interesting note, Home Depot for some unfathomable reason no longer carries common capacitors, had to go over to Grainger to get one. It might be advisable to order a couple in advance just to have around.
  #92  
Old 05-08-2011, 12:02 PM
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Good writeup Lance, we just finished the refrigeration module at Wyotech last month. Basically the more crap is on your condenser coil, the less able it is to get rid of the heat from your house. It's crazy how just cleaning it can make a world of difference! Remember to change those duct filters regularly!
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  #93  
Old 05-08-2011, 3:10 PM
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hey powderedtoast man, tell ted g paul says hello
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  #94  
Old 05-16-2011, 8:13 AM
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I completed my cleaning tasks a couple weeks ago; the main problem was the screw placement on the housing; the screws were "buried" up under the lip of the lower housing and not easily removed but I did get them out; I replaced only half the screws to secure the lower housing. Cleaning was easy, and after 20 years of abuse this sure helped in keeping the unit running another 20 years. Thanks for the "how-to" with pix.
  #95  
Old 05-20-2011, 9:14 AM
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Great writeup, but just so everybody knows, the cleaning most professionals will do will include the use of an acidic coil cleaner that's sprayed onto the coil fins and foams when it reacts with aluminum and dirt. It will actually push the dirt out from between the fins and gets the coil probably 50% cleaner than just vacuuming and spraying with plain water will do. Also, they should be checking to make sure the pan drains are clear and cleaning the evaporator coils as well.

Luckily for me, my next door neighbor is a 30+ year HVAC/Sheetmetal man. He has all the supplies and services mine every couple years for me. It's amazing what just 1 or 2 years of Sacramento dust will do to reduce the efficiency of the system. I can tell right away, since my programmable thermostat keeps track of usage for the last couple days. For similar days, I have seen as much as a 1 or 2 hours per day decrease in runtime after cleaning.
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  #96  
Old 05-20-2011, 11:18 AM
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it used to be acid based, but now its alkaline cleaner
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  #97  
Old 06-05-2011, 6:16 PM
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Quote:
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it used to be acid based, but now its alkaline cleaner
Can you give any details on who makes it, where to by it, and how to use it? Thanks.
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