![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
Firearms Accessories: Holsters, Safes, Lights & more If it locks up, carries, fits on to or cleans up your firearms, discuss it here. |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
My friend bought 2 of them, one firelined, he thinks they are among the best built and oneo fthe best for the money.
Their website shows a burnt down house with the safe standing and the contents inside after it was opened. I'd say they beat most of the common gun safe names like cannon, winchester, broowning, etc. Last time I spoke with them they used hardened 3/16th steel for the sides, back, top & bottom vs. 1/4 inch but they mentioned it is hardened, I've been considerring ordering one for years if I could just figure how to get it moved inside - they only drop ship. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Same here about wanting one - I can use one for other stuff also such as legal papers etc.
But the part about how to get it in place after shipping is my issue. Quote:
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
If you have no stairs or just a few stairs, then a pallet jack, 3/4" plywood, and some scrap 2x4, 4x4, 4x6, 4x8...depending on the stairs size works. Moved many things over 1000lbs this way. It also works for getting items off pallets themselves....
Brian |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Revivng an old thread... I still feel sturdy safes offer the top end in (functionally tough) residential security containers for well under $2k. A real safe would have 1/2 to 3/4 inch steel plate I suppose, but my snap-on tool box right next to the safe has nearly twice the content value and the box was about twice as much as the safe too.
Terry said he used to know a guy who did training with the fire dept up there and he got to try out a few of his safes in condemned bldg training fires until he fine tuned the optimal setup that he sells now. I think the fire protection potential is as important as theft prevention. a 5' high 3627 model: ![]() |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
I like the ceramic wool fireproofing over the sheetrock (it costs more, but seeing the comparisons won me over) and the lock mechanism is different than comparable safe which can be easily drilled and punched... mine is standard granite finish, I didn't need or want the fancy-shmancy artwork glossy high maintenance paint job. Totally function over form. By the way, the wife thinks it's totally ugly...but then again, I didn't ask for her opinion... I drove down and had an appointment on a Saturday morning to pick it up. The owner, darn if I can't think of his name right now, gave me the tour of the shop.... they have some big metal working machines... and helped me load it up. He even showed me how to drill and punch the other types of locks... and one he had recently done... |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
These are the real thing. Compare everything and talk to Terry the owner. Go there and he'll show you what he does and why. You don't need 47 chrome bolts on a shiny safe that a kid with a fire axe can knock the top off or bash thru the side. Fire board stops fire-insulation insulates. Fire isn't going thru your steel wall(if it is steel and not sheet metal!), heat is what goes thru. Google for insulation blankets and materials-they use ceramic fiber cloth and glass insulation like Sturdy not fireboard. There are other good gun safes out there but these give you what you need at great value. Your wife wont let you put this iron monster in the living room but it will keep your guns safe especially if bolted down in the garage. Just my opinion after a lot of shopping.
|
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |