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  #1  
Old 11-21-2019, 11:38 PM
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Default GSG 1911-22; Added the CW accessory kit, having some issues. (mostly fixed)

Hey all. I've reached out to CW on this, just wanted to see if anyone else had run into this in the past.

I bought a GSG 1911-22 on sale at Turners back in May and I've had 700 rds through it since then.

I decided to get the CW Accessories 'Performance Accelerator Package" seen here: https://www.cwaccessories.com/produc...rmance-package to tighten up the gun a bit.

Upon firing a single round, the slide fails to return all the way forward into battery, preventing the next round from firing. I have to manually nudge the slide forward to get the gun into battery to fire.

 If I pull the trigger having not done that, the hammer stops just short of the firing pin (I don't remember what the rimfire equivalent of that part is called, forgive me).

I examined the pistol at home and it seems as if the bushing may be the issue. With the stock barrel bushing, the slide returns to battery consistently. With the new CW bushing, the slide seems to hang up on the very last bit of travel. Pushing the slide forward manually results in an audible ‘click’ of the slide going into battery and a visible forward travel of somewhere between 1/16 and 1/32 of an inch. 


Anyone else have this issue? As said I've reached out to CW for a solution. Maybe I got a bad part? The guide rod seems to function perfectly with the stock bushing in there.

Last edited by B2D; 01-16-2020 at 10:49 PM..
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  #2  
Old 11-22-2019, 12:24 AM
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With the new bushing, you're not using the barrel screw anymore, right?

Have you tried the factory recoil spring?
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  #3  
Old 11-22-2019, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ysr_racer View Post
With the new bushing, you're not using the barrel screw anymore, right?

Have you tried the factory recoil spring?
Correct, I am not using the barrel screw with the allen head.

I haven't tried the factory recoil spring, as the one that came with the CW kit is supposed to be stronger, and I'd think that would actually help with getting the slide back in battery, rather than prohibit it.
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Old 11-22-2019, 6:10 AM
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Take the spring out, and work the slide up and back by hand. Does it go into battery freely?
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Old 11-22-2019, 6:40 AM
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Also make sure you're not dragging your left thumb on the slide, if you're right handed. The recoil spring is so soft that any resistance will cause in not to go into battery.

Shoot the gun right handed, and don't limp wrist it.
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  #6  
Old 11-22-2019, 4:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ysr_racer View Post
Take the spring out, and work the slide up and back by hand. Does it go into battery freely?
No, actually. It's still getting hung up on that very last bit of travel. Rails are clean and lubed.

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Originally Posted by ysr_racer View Post
Also make sure you're not dragging your left thumb on the slide, if you're right handed. The recoil spring is so soft that any resistance will cause in not to go into battery.

Shoot the gun right handed, and don't limp wrist it.
Yup - not dragging the slide, and not limp wristing, and I'm R handed.
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  #7  
Old 11-22-2019, 6:53 AM
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I had the exact same problem, but you aren't going to like my solution. The tolerances are too tight with the CWS accessories. Not their fault, they make their products consistently. However the GSG is pot metal lottery. Take a look at the extractor carefully and watch as it goes into battery. When I had the CWS accessories in place, the extractor would catch on the groove and cause the slide to not go into battery until you give it a gentle nudge.

I didn't want to file the groove so it was my excuse to buy the CWS barrel. The new barrel mated perfectly with the groove.

But like I said, you won't like my solution. Buying a $150 barrel for a $300 gun is probably not ideal. I enjoy shooting the modified GSG so I guess it was worth it.

Next time you the chance - look at the barrel placement when you are using the original bushing and the barrel screw versus, no barrel screw and the CWS bushing. The CWS bushing is great because it is consistent unlike the when you use the barrel screw when it varies by how much you torque it down. But the CWS bushing places the barrel just a hair bit higher. That is enough to offset the location of the extractor relative to the extractor groove.

side note: youtube etc will say, use fine grit sandpaper to remove overspray from the slide rails. I did that. But still did not solve the slide not going into battery.

Last edited by creampuff; 11-22-2019 at 11:57 AM..
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  #8  
Old 11-22-2019, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creampuff View Post
I had the exact same problem, but you aren't going to like my solution. The tolerances are too tight with the CWS accessories. Not their fault, they make their products consistently. However the GSG is pot metal lottery. Take a look at the extractor carefully and watch as it goes into battery. When I had the CWS accessories in place, the extractor would catch on the groove and cause the slide to not go into battery until you give it a gentle nudge.

I didn't want to file the groove so it was my excuse to buy the CWS barrel. The new barrel mated perfectly with the groove.

But like I said, you won't like my solution. Buying a $150 barrel for a $300 gun is probably not ideal. I enjoy shooting the modified GSG so I guess it was worth it.

Next time you the chance - look at the barrel placement when you are using the original bushing and the barrel screw versus, no barrel screw and the CWS bushing. The CWS bushing is great because it is consistent unlike the when you use the barrel screw when it varies by how much you torque it down. But the CWS bushing places the barrel just a hair bit higher. That is enough to offset the location of the extractor relative to the extractor groove.

side note: youtube etc will say, use fine grit sandpaper to remove overspray from the slide rails. I did that. But still did not solve the slide not going into battery.


If the extractor alignment is the problem and you have verified this, you can tune the bottom of the extractor’s front edge with a file to put an angle on it that will allow the extractor to ride over that tiny point of contact. It’s not the ideal solution as it places a small amount of upward tension on the extractor, but if the interference is only 1 or 2 thousandths (which it likely is), this should fix it for you.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1911Luvr View Post
I beg to differ. The full length dust cover rail makes a world of difference in the "when I run out of bullets I'm going to beat you to death with the pistol" look that causes bad guys to run in fear, and lesser men to feel inadequate. It looks just plain beastly and the extra heft up front does help manage recoil a bit better. Plus, an angel told me that when God called JMB to heaven it was to build him a full rail 1911!
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Old 11-22-2019, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1911Luvr View Post
If the extractor alignment is the problem and you have verified this, you can tune the bottom of the extractor’s front edge with a file to put an angle on it that will allow the extractor to ride over that tiny point of contact. It’s not the ideal solution as it places a small amount of upward tension on the extractor, but if the interference is only 1 or 2 thousandths (which it likely is), this should fix it for you.


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yes, but I was looking for an excuse to buy a $150 barrel for a $270 gun
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Old 11-22-2019, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by creampuff View Post
yes, but I was looking for an excuse to buy a $150 barrel for a $270 gun


Well if that’s all you wanted, you’re good to go! But if you need an excuse to spend $500 on a $270 gun you should look at his full slide replacement kits! Now if you feel the need to spend even more, you should look at his custom packages. Here’s your excuse for that:



Note: this is not my gun.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1911Luvr View Post
I beg to differ. The full length dust cover rail makes a world of difference in the "when I run out of bullets I'm going to beat you to death with the pistol" look that causes bad guys to run in fear, and lesser men to feel inadequate. It looks just plain beastly and the extra heft up front does help manage recoil a bit better. Plus, an angel told me that when God called JMB to heaven it was to build him a full rail 1911!
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  #11  
Old 11-22-2019, 1:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1911Luvr View Post
Well if that’s all you wanted, you’re good to go! But if you need an excuse to spend $500 on a $270 gun you should look at his full slide replacement kits! Now if you feel the need to spend even more, you should look at his custom packages. Here’s your excuse for that:

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  #12  
Old 11-22-2019, 4:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creampuff View Post
I had the exact same problem, but you aren't going to like my solution. The tolerances are too tight with the CWS accessories. Not their fault, they make their products consistently. However the GSG is pot metal lottery. Take a look at the extractor carefully and watch as it goes into battery. When I had the CWS accessories in place, the extractor would catch on the groove and cause the slide to not go into battery until you give it a gentle nudge.

I didn't want to file the groove so it was my excuse to buy the CWS barrel. The new barrel mated perfectly with the groove.

But like I said, you won't like my solution. Buying a $150 barrel for a $300 gun is probably not ideal. I enjoy shooting the modified GSG so I guess it was worth it.

Next time you the chance - look at the barrel placement when you are using the original bushing and the barrel screw versus, no barrel screw and the CWS bushing. The CWS bushing is great because it is consistent unlike the when you use the barrel screw when it varies by how much you torque it down. But the CWS bushing places the barrel just a hair bit higher. That is enough to offset the location of the extractor relative to the extractor groove.

side note: youtube etc will say, use fine grit sandpaper to remove overspray from the slide rails. I did that. But still did not solve the slide not going into battery.
I'll look into that and get back to you. I love the 1911 form factor but as I've already put $50 grips and a $70 tuner kit and was planning on putting better sights on it, I'm starting to wonder if I should spent the money on a Buckmark.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1911Luvr View Post
If the extractor alignment is the problem and you have verified this, you can tune the bottom of the extractor’s front edge with a file to put an angle on it that will allow the extractor to ride over that tiny point of contact. It’s not the ideal solution as it places a small amount of upward tension on the extractor, but if the interference is only 1 or 2 thousandths (which it likely is), this should fix it for you.
I'll look into that as well. I think I can buy a replacement extractor as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1911Luvr View Post
Well if that’s all you wanted, you’re good to go! But if you need an excuse to spend $500 on a $270 gun you should look at his full slide replacement kits! Now if you feel the need to spend even more, you should look at his custom packages. Here’s your excuse for that:



Note: this is not my gun.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Wow... is that a thumb rest screwed into the slide? Interesting.
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  #13  
Old 11-22-2019, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1911Luvr View Post
Well if that’s all you wanted, you’re good to go! But if you need an excuse to spend $500 on a $270 gun you should look at his full slide replacement kits! Now if you feel the need to spend even more, you should look at his custom packages. Here’s your excuse for that:



Note: this is not my gun.


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Is this NICE pistol on Roster ?
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  #14  
Old 11-26-2019, 9:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creampuff View Post
I had the exact same problem, but you aren't going to like my solution. The tolerances are too tight with the CWS accessories. Not their fault, they make their products consistently. However the GSG is pot metal lottery. Take a look at the extractor carefully and watch as it goes into battery. When I had the CWS accessories in place, the extractor would catch on the groove and cause the slide to not go into battery until you give it a gentle nudge.

I didn't want to file the groove so it was my excuse to buy the CWS barrel. The new barrel mated perfectly with the groove.

But like I said, you won't like my solution. Buying a $150 barrel for a $300 gun is probably not ideal. I enjoy shooting the modified GSG so I guess it was worth it.
Did your GSG experience any improvement in accuracy and precision with those mods?
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  #15  
Old 11-26-2019, 10:59 AM
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Did your GSG experience any improvement in accuracy and precision with those mods?
I think so, though it was hard to tell having to 'fix' the pistol after almost every shot.

point of impact centered up but it's still shooting high. I expected that due to the tighter bushing fit.

I was gonna get the Dawson sight set for it first because they're adjusted for that, but I'd like to get this cycling issue fixed first.
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Old 11-27-2019, 10:59 AM
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Did your GSG experience any improvement in accuracy and precision with those mods?
Yes, now that I am done it does group almost as tightly as my Buckmark. It has the fun factor that the Buckmark doesn't have though.
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Old 11-22-2019, 4:48 PM
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On another note, CW got back to me this afternoon. He recommended more lube and trying the Variable Recoil Spring that came with the kit, instead of the power spring.

The stock spring doesn't solve the issue, but interestingly enough the VRS does seem to alleviate the issue, but not solve it.

Pulling the slide back and letting go or releasing it from slide lock (with dummy ammo) results in the slide not going fully into battery about 4 our of 5 times.

CW also recommended sanding the outside of the end of the barrel slightly as there can sometimes be a bump where the barrel cap is welded in. There's isn't one that I can see or feel. I would think that sanding would make it not as slick but I might try it.
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Old 11-26-2019, 2:53 PM
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If you take the barrel off, and the bushing off, are you able to slide the bushing over the barrel when they're not on the gun?

If you are, then it's something else that's hanging up because the barrel is at a different angle.
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Old 11-26-2019, 3:47 PM
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Have you tried changing the barrel link?

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Old 11-26-2019, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ysr_racer View Post
If you take the barrel off, and the bushing off, are you able to slide the bushing over the barrel when they're not on the gun?

If you are, then it's something else that's hanging up because the barrel is at a different angle.
Yes, and I agree. Something else is preventing going into battery consistently. I'm going to take a look at that extractor again. I don't know what else it could be.

I'm good with tinkering with guitars, and this isn't my first pistol but it is my first .22 and my first gun I've tinkered with. I'm learning the logic here.

Quote:
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Have you tried changing the barrel link?

These don't really have a barrel link in the same way that a typical 1911 does. It's more of a solid lug that's attached to the barrel under the chamber. There are three holes in it... center one holds the slide release and the back one is labeled as a 'fixing pin'. The front one is suppose to be optional after using a tighter bushing, as the tighter bushing is doing the job that the front screw was doing, which was holding the barrel in place.

(pic is for reference, not my pistol).
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Old 11-27-2019, 5:58 AM
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I know there's no barrel link, that's why I put the smiley face
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Old 11-27-2019, 10:51 AM
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I know there's no barrel link, that's why I put the smiley face
doh!! I missed the significance of that part.
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Old 11-27-2019, 11:55 AM
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You can't polish a turd but you can make them pretty shiny. I'd prefer to sink any spare gun $ into my center fire 1911's.

As is, it's accurate enough and cheap to use. Who could ask for more?
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Old 11-27-2019, 12:16 PM
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Fun to shoot and as accurate as the shooter
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Old 11-27-2019, 5:59 PM
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Nothing against custom guns but I sure wouldn’t use a a GSG 1911/22 as the base.
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Old 11-28-2019, 3:06 PM
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Here's my thought - I'd never tinkered with guns before so I thought this mught be a cheap way to generally learn how to mod up a gun. But if it's an overall unsatisfying experience, and I can't get it to run the way I want within a reasonably small cost, I'll just sell it and buy a Buckmark and then later on see if i can find an old Colt Ace or Walther/Colt for the 1911-22 thing.

I love the form factor on the thing, I just want it to shoot more accurately than it currently does.
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Old 11-29-2019, 3:02 AM
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Don't listen to these jerkoffs, it's a fine gun. It's not a $3000 Wilson, but it didn't cost $3000.

It's a fun little gun, especially for the money.
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Old 12-02-2019, 8:30 PM
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OP sorry about your problems. But this thread is a good case history and a reminder of what upgrading a weapon (pistol, rifle, bow) can become. On the bright side, you will come out with a better understanding of the GSG than the original designer. Thanks for sharing (painful projects sometimes don't make it to forums). Hope it works out well in the end.
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Old 12-04-2019, 4:52 AM
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OP sorry about your problems. But this thread is a good case history and a reminder of what upgrading a weapon (pistol, rifle, bow) can become. On the bright side, you will come out with a better understanding of the GSG than the original designer. Thanks for sharing (painful projects sometimes don't make it to forums). Hope it works out well in the end.
I agree, it'll make for a good experience-builder project.

I still might get a buckmark anyway because I like those.

I'll be taking it to the range tomorrow. I made a small check-sheet of what combinations of parts will allow the gun to work and what doesn't. It'll be interesting to see what I find.
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Old 12-05-2019, 12:26 PM
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Please keep us updated as I made the mistake of purchasing the Tandemkross accurizing kit that is NOT COMPATIBLE with the CA version. The CA version has the barrel with the non removable end. The Tandemkross version replaces the end of the barrel with a new belled out end which tightens up the tolerances on a non CA barrel. I checked with American Tactical and they can’t send the standard threaded barrel to CA. Although my GSG is not the most reliable plinker it really is a lot of fun especially with the Dawson Precision sights I installed.
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Old 12-05-2019, 1:19 PM
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^^^^^Good shooting
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Old 12-05-2019, 11:10 PM
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Please keep us updated as I made the mistake of purchasing the Tandemkross accurizing kit that is NOT COMPATIBLE with the CA version. The CA version has the barrel with the non removable end. The Tandemkross version replaces the end of the barrel with a new belled out end which tightens up the tolerances on a non CA barrel. I checked with American Tactical and they can’t send the standard threaded barrel to CA. Although my GSG is not the most reliable plinker it really is a lot of fun especially with the Dawson Precision sights I installed.
ZR tactical will put an alignment cone on a CA barrel if you purchase their accurizing kit and send them the barrel with the receipt.

And yes, good shooting, far better than what I'm getting at 10 yards.
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  #33  
Old 12-07-2019, 10:06 PM
Musubi1000 Musubi1000 is offline
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Thanks B2D
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  #34  
Old 12-11-2019, 2:01 PM
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bluzman bluzman is offline
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I bought my GSG 1911-22 in March 2017. It ran great straight out of the gate after I cleaned and lubed it. Like the OP, I decided to install an upgrade kit from CWA. The pistol immediately began to have the problem you've described. I sent the following message to CWA.
I recently purchased the "Shooters Special 4" kit in my GSG 1911-22 (CA version). Prior to the installation, the stock pistol had been field stripped, cleaned, lubed. Then 100 rds of approx. equal amounts of 40 gr Remington, Federal and Aguila .22LR (all with muzzle velocities more than 1,200 feet per second) loaded into 3 different magazines were fired with no failures of any kind occurring.

The pistol was stripped and cleaned after that and then the kit components were installed. As part of the installation, the Frame Hole Plug kit was installed first. All observable metal shavings produced by tapping the hole in the slide were removed. A small amount of Blue Loctite was used on the plug screw but care was taken to insure none was present on the inside of the slide before reassembly. The guide rod was assembled by first sliding on the blue shock buffer, then the supplied metal washer and finally the new recoil spring. The new bushing and spring retainer replaced the stock parts.

Another range test using the same ammo/mags produced a failure of the slide to go fully into battery on every shot after the first round. A slight tap always put the slide in battery. Suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
I don't still have the email reply but IIRC it suggested continuing to shoot the pistol until the new parts were broken in. My solution was to reinstall the original barrel bushing at which point everything performed normally. Since then, the only other mod I made was to remove the mag safety.

As an aside, I'll should note that I saw similar behavior (a tap required to achieve full battery) on a .22WMR pistol I own. In that case, I found that the top of the lips on two of the three mags I had (all OEM) were binding ever so slightly on underside of the slide. A little work with a stone to remove a couple of thousandths cured the problem.
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  #35  
Old 12-12-2019, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluzman View Post
I bought my GSG 1911-22 in March 2017. It ran great straight out of the gate after I cleaned and lubed it. Like the OP, I decided to install an upgrade kit from CWA. The pistol immediately began to have the problem you've described...

I don't still have the email reply but IIRC it suggested continuing to shoot the pistol until the new parts were broken in. My solution was to reinstall the original barrel bushing at which point everything performed normally. Since then, the only other mod I made was to remove the mag safety.

As an aside, I'll should note that I saw similar behavior (a tap required to achieve full battery) on a .22WMR pistol I own. In that case, I found that the top of the lips on two of the three mags I had (all OEM) were binding ever so slightly on underside of the slide. A little work with a stone to remove a couple of thousandths cured the problem.
Well I'm glad I'm not alone in that issue.

I'm waiting on some Dawson sights for the pistol. After that I'll get the finish overspray off the rails, and shoot it again with the stock bushing but with the CW guide rod. We'll see how it goes.

One other thing I might do after that is change the thumb safety as the current one digs into my thumb when firing.
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  #36  
Old 12-15-2019, 5:22 PM
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I'm back in the good old U.S. of A. if you want to see mine with Dawson sights and an EGW bushing.
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  #37  
Old 12-15-2019, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ysr_racer View Post
I'm back in the good old U.S. of A. if you want to see mine with Dawson sights and an EGW bushing.
Will contact you soon. My Dawson sights come in the mail tomorrow.
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  #38  
Old 12-24-2019, 8:29 AM
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Did you ever figure out why it wasn't going into battery?
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  #39  
Old 12-24-2019, 8:51 AM
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Anyone remove the end piece on a CA roster GSG? Don't want to wreck my barrel, but curious if it would unscrew.......
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  #40  
Old 12-24-2019, 8:52 AM
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Originally Posted by newbutold View Post
Anyone remove the end piece on a CA roster GSG? Don't want to wreck my barrel, but curious if it would unscrew.......

It will not. It’s not threaded.


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I beg to differ. The full length dust cover rail makes a world of difference in the "when I run out of bullets I'm going to beat you to death with the pistol" look that causes bad guys to run in fear, and lesser men to feel inadequate. It looks just plain beastly and the extra heft up front does help manage recoil a bit better. Plus, an angel told me that when God called JMB to heaven it was to build him a full rail 1911!
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