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  #41  
Old 06-08-2021, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sofbak View Post
Congratulations! Well on your way to success via common sense, intellect, and individual capability.

As opposed to a "check book" approach as others here have expressed.

Range report please, once you have test-fired the fruits of your endeavor!
I loaded 20 more with the plastic shot cards. They were a bit more difficult to assemble but I found a brass punch and pushed them in with a flat plate under a die. Now I only have around 82gns of #12, I'm hoping they have a bit more pop but the pattern is everything.
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  #42  
Old 06-08-2021, 12:48 PM
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Two things

My experience was with a box of the shot capsules I picked up in the late 80s.

I was bummed no one had load data.

I weighted the loaded projective - shot and capsule- and it was crazy light.

I looked at load data for 110 grain -158 grain and used the lightest as my starting load.


I tested the first 6 and only 2 or 3 of the six broke and released the pellets.

I started upping the charge of 700x from there.

I never got a decent pattern and gave up on snake shot.


The early days of front sight in Pahrump, most of the instructors carried the 1st round with a snake shot.

If it did not work, they would run the slide and try ball Ammo.


It takes a conscious thought to shoot snake shot from a semi auto 22 as I would suggest holding the slide shut. Once you fired, then manually cycling the slide.


Or better yet - no step on snake - no shoot the snake.


For those who live in the rural setting, I have no issues killing buzz worms around the yard.

For those camping or hunting, I’m fine letting them eating mice and what ever else they eat.
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  #43  
Old 06-08-2021, 12:52 PM
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Oh - wads

I’m lazy

Why not drill a 1/4 hole in the primer pocket of an 38/357 case

Then you simply chuck up the 38/357 case in a drill or drill press

Spin the case against sandpaper to sharpen it up

Then use the spinning case to cut holes in the wad material of your choice?

Remove the case when full and push the freshly
Cut wads out of the case
Mouth from the 1/4” hole in the primer pocket?
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  #44  
Old 06-08-2021, 1:02 PM
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^^^Thats how I cut wads for .45colt shot shells. But the case rim proved to be a problem in the drill press-couldn't get a good grip and couldn't keep it concentric when spinnig to cut. So I used a .45acp case instead.

Maybe drill a suitable hole through the primer hole and use a screw through it with a jamb nut or two. Chuck the screw body in the drill.

Additionally, to get a good tight fitting wad, sharpen the inside diameter of your wad cutter case.
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  #45  
Old 06-08-2021, 1:15 PM
sofbak sofbak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donny1 View Post
I loaded 20 more with the plastic shot cards. They were a bit more difficult to assemble but I found a brass punch and pushed them in with a flat plate under a die. Now I only have around 82gns of #12, I'm hoping they have a bit more pop but the pattern is everything.
If your custom trimmed plastic wad works, I don't think you'll notice much if any difference from the reduction of load weight/shot quantity. I'm expecting an improvement in both penetration and pattern reduction. Please report back with results!

Next, you'll be looking into .38 special magnum shot shells. Get some .357 cases and go for it. I used S&W .460 mag cases for my .45 colt magnum shot shells..... Finding the right die to swage down the case neck to fit into the cylinder throats may be a challenge. Possibly a .32 cal sizing die, or ideally a 2-die .357 blank crimping set if you can find one.

Fun times ahead!

Last edited by sofbak; 06-08-2021 at 2:13 PM..
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  #46  
Old 06-08-2021, 3:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hermosabeach View Post
Oh - wads

I’m lazy

Why not drill a 1/4 hole in the primer pocket of an 38/357 case

Then you simply chuck up the 38/357 case in a drill or drill press

Spin the case against sandpaper to sharpen it up

Then use the spinning case to cut holes in the wad material of your choice?

Remove the case when full and push the freshly
Cut wads out of the case
Mouth from the 1/4” hole in the primer pocket?
Good workable idea. Make it even more KISS friendly, and lazy, by using a 9 para or 38 super case. And as "sofbak" suggested. ONLY sharpen the inside of mouth, I used my RCBS chamfer tool.
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  #47  
Old 06-10-2021, 1:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sofbak View Post
I'm expecting an improvement in both penetration and pattern reduction. Please report back with results!
Another decent day here as far as temperature and I had to chrono some .380 anyway. Here is the result, much better and recoil and noise are now on the level of standard 38spl, but .... still not going to run them across the chrono The first 2 cans are one shot each from 6' and the last can is from 10'. I'd say more than acceptable. I also shot 5 rounds on paper with the same POI at 5' and the overall spread was no more than 18" with most of the holes within 12", nothing left of the center. These thick plastic cars are PIA to get in straight and there is a little trimming with a razor knife on the over shot card but worth the effort, just glad I'm not loading hundreds!

Quote:
Get some .357 cases and go for it.
This is likely the only way to improve from here but I think what I have is fine, and I don't have any .357.
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File Type: jpg cans2.jpg (20.7 KB, 16 views)
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  #48  
Old 06-10-2021, 1:55 PM
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Impressive results.

You might try pre-forming your wads. Form them over a rod of the right diameter and take a hair dryer or heat gun on the base where the folds are for a few seconds.
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  #49  
Old 06-10-2021, 6:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sofbak View Post
Impressive results.

You might try pre-forming your wads. Form them over a rod of the right diameter and take a hair dryer or heat gun on the base where the folds are for a few seconds.
There are no folds or pedals, just a .030 flat plastic round card I punched out of some material I had around, they fit really tight.
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  #50  
Old 06-10-2021, 6:54 PM
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^^^What did you use as a "punch" to cut them with?
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  #51  
Old 06-10-2021, 6:57 PM
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This reminds me to get back on my project of 45 Colt shotshells with .460 cases. I bought some #10 shot for the project then got distracted.

I have some with the Speer plastic capsules, but they're too fragile for me.
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  #52  
Old 06-10-2021, 7:43 PM
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[QUOTE=Donny1;25850540]Another decent day here as far as temperature and I had to chrono some .380 anyway. Here is the result, much better and recoil and noise are now on the level of standard 38spl, but .... still not going to run them across the chrono The first 2 cans are one shot each from 6' and the last can is from 10'. I'd say more than acceptable. I also shot 5 rounds on paper with the same POI at 5' and the overall spread was no more than 18" with most of the holes within 12", nothing left of the center. These thick plastic cars are PIA to get in straight and there is a little trimming with a razor knife on the over shot card but worth the effort, just glad I'm not loading hundreds! /QUOTE]

Those are good results! A snake at those ranges would be pretty well ventilated. As I mentioned before, my son shot a rattlesnake at 4 or 5 feet with a .22 LR crimped shotshell and the snake never really even twitched. A couple years later, he shot a prairie dog with a .38 shotshell and it was DRT.

I think those patterns beat the ones I load with the capsules, so I may have to copy your technique.
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  #53  
Old 06-11-2021, 6:51 AM
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Originally Posted by sofbak View Post
^^^What did you use as a "punch" to cut them with?
A 38spl case, chamfered inside and out. Squeeze in vice slowly with some kind of backer like 1/4" wood. They will be stuck inside, I pushed them on one side so they flip sideways and pull them out. Also they are so stiff with this material than inserting the card over the powder is done by putting them in sideways and turn and then with a punch that fits just inside the case push them down against the powder. With the over shot card there is no room to flip it sideways so I used the press with a punch to force them in slowly and then trim the excess, crimp and cover with glue (clear nail polish).

Wow, that got lengthy but I hope that covered it.
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  #54  
Old 06-11-2021, 7:14 AM
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Quote:
I think those patterns beat the ones I load with the capsules, so I may have to copy your technique.
I haven't given up completely on the capsules. I was thinking of inverting them with just a paper over shot card but they don't go down against the powder because the case is tapered inside. Not sure what effect that would have. The current technique has the over powder card pressed firmly against the powder.

Not going to revisit that at the moment as I am processing .223 brass right now, ugh, need to build a shed, a fence, another fence, and 10 other things I've been putting off. The upcoming week of over 100 deg temps will not help with those things but will likely keep me inside so who knows.

Waiting for lumber prices to crash
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  #55  
Old 06-11-2021, 8:40 AM
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Default Snake loads

I looks like you got a lot of good info, I have loaded shot shells for pistols for years, just an FYI, if you look on castboolits forums, they have a section devoted to shotshells for pistols, lots of good info.

Marshhawk
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  #56  
Old 06-11-2021, 9:07 AM
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Originally Posted by marshhawk View Post
I looks like you got a lot of good info, I have loaded shot shells for pistols for years, just an FYI, if you look on castboolits forums, they have a section devoted to shotshells for pistols, lots of good info.

Marshhawk
I read through a lot of the threads there, seems I am right on track with most of the comments. Nice to know I came to the same conclusions on my own One definite conclusion is the smaller shot, #12 is the most effective, at least in my application with a 38 snubbie.

Overall the biggest difference came by using thick, stiff cards that I had to really force in the case. Increased velocity to what feels like a standard 38spl. Although I didn't go back to the bigger shot (yet) after I started using the hard plastic cards I feel like I have success and need to stop! lol, it works and I just need effective, not perfection.
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  #57  
Old 06-11-2021, 11:01 AM
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I posted my "recipe" here in this thread, Post #22:
http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...2&postcount=22

Here are some pics showing the pattern from a factory 357/38 spcl Speer Shotshell vs my home made 38 spcl. shotshell.
Shot from a Ruger SP101 357 mag. 2-1/4 " barrel
Ruger SP101 - 8 ft. - CCI Shotshell.jpg

Ruger SP101 - 8 ft. - Shotshell reloads.jpg
I chose a distance of 8 feet for my test because my intent with these is to shoot rattlesnakes and wanted to know how tight the pattern was.

CCI Shotshell uses #9 shot.
My home made uses #7-1/2 shot

#7-1/2 shot gave a tighter group.....(due to heavier shot?)
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  #58  
Old 06-11-2021, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Rizzo View Post
I chose a distance of 8 feet for my test because my intent with these is to shoot rattlesnakes and wanted to know how tight the pattern was.

CCI Shotshell uses #9 shot.
My home made uses #7-1/2 shot

#7-1/2 shot gave a tighter group.....(due to heavier shot?)
Yes, I got much better pattern with #12. And yes, without the shot cups the pattern is better as well. They seem to disrupt the spread.
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  #59  
Old 06-12-2021, 4:37 AM
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The faster you push these, the larger the pattern due to rifling in the barrel. Just another way to fine tune the loads.
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