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Centerfire Rifles - Semiautomatic or Gas Operated Centerfire rifles, carbines and other gas operated rifles. |
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#1
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How to convert semi to bolt action cheap?
Anyone experience with this? Is it easy to DIY the gas block.
I am planning to build one, but not to many sell custom gas block or even cheap. |
#2
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I've seen some rifles with their gas block installed upside down and without a gas tube. Some people say that is not legal and you need a custom barrel without a gas port hole, or it needs to be welded shut to make it truly non-semi-automatic. It will be interesting to see where this thread goes.
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#3
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Literally punch out the roll pin on the gas block and remove the gas tube. Be aware that you’re gonna be spitting powder and stuff rearwards though. So making a pin that plugs the port will be mandatory. Can’t imagine it taking more than a couple minutes. Maybe cut off a super short section of the gas tube and fill it with jb weld and crimp it closed so it can’t shoot the jb weld towards you or weld it shut for real, then you haven’t perminantly modified the gas block and can just put the blocked tube in when you want it to be bolt action.
-Gabe
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Originally Posted by dieselpower... "I own several firearms, none of them are "toys". I hear a "bump" in the middle of the night...I am not reaching for my Xbox controller..." Originally Posted by CoopsDad... "Taking a Mosin to a smith for a new barrel is like taking a cat to the vet- easier and cheaper to just get another. " |
#4
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It is not cheap, but maybe check out the Kali-Key.
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#6
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What a bunch of nonsense. Not criticizing you, Larry, but just saying this kind of stuff is ridiculous and completely not supported by any textual basis. If you take out the gas tube, it's not semi-automatic. The regulation is clear on that. “Semiautomatic” means a firearm functionally able to fire a single cartridge, eject the empty case, and reload the chamber each time the trigger is pulled and released. Further, certain necessary mechanical parts that will allow a firearm to function in a semiautomatic nature must be present for a weapon to be deemed semiautomatic. A weapon clearly designed to be semiautomatic but lacking a firing pin, bolt carrier, gas tube, or some other crucial part of the firearm is not semiautomatic for purposes of Penal Code sections 30515, 30600, 30605(a), and 30900.
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In case it wasn't obvious, nothing I write here should be interpreted as legal advice. |
#7
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. . . The thread will probably still go in a weird direction. |
#9
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#10
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Rotate the gas block or scoot it forward enough to block the hole. |
#11
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There are a lot of people that will tell you it wont work right because the gas system is gone, saying it wont chamber right and that it wont eject correctly. So far for me almost 2000 rds in and no issues whatsoever. My only complaint is the charging handle is on the right side instead of the left so if you pull too fast your index finger knuckle becomes a case deflector. My bolt is drilled on both side so at some point I will take it apart and mill a slot into it for the left side. |
#12
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I need to try put that sparrow grip. I using the exile hammerhead. Not pleasant at the web, and sturdy but heavy.
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#13
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Yes they do but its out of stock at the moment.
AR10/308 Kali-Key Bolt Action Charging Handle
__________________
In a state where corruption abounds, laws must be very numerous. Publius Cornelius Scipio Tyranny is defined as that which is legal for the government but illegal for the citizenry. ― Thomas Jefferson Our Constitution was made only for a moral and religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the government of any other. John Adams |
#14
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if you don't want to mess with a pinned gas block, just cut the gas tube then curl / crush the little bit of tube you leave behind.
done deal. no gas/powder to the face, and don't need anything more than pliers and hacksaw / dremel with cut-off wheel. or get creative and cut the gas tube, bend it up so it pokes through the top of the handguard, and mount a whistle or duck call to it. or get really creative and bend that tube in a way so you can rest a hot dog on it and cook up a snack while shooting.
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#15
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Not really, it is codified in the Cal Code Regs, not the PC. And don't forget CCR 5460, which applied CCR 5471 to the PC, was withdrawn.
So it's not in the PC. |
#16
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Ahh very good point there. I forgot that
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#17
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#20
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OP, just build with an undrilled barrel. No GB, no gas tube, keeps costs and risks down.
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#21
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What am I missing here? |
#22
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An otherwise-functional AW missing a part, under the law of one unpublished case, could still be an AW. Here's the case: Chaker Last edited by God Bless America; 09-18-2018 at 7:15 PM.. |
#23
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Once you removed the gas tube, you are missing a crucial part. |
#24
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But moving it forward or tapping in a set screw would not mean removal, correct?
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#25
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July of this year.
Current regulatory definition for purposes of Penal Code? Uncertain. The Chaker case is based on bad facts, he was a d-bag and acted like one. A close reading of Chaker shows that he had an assembled AW, but just pulled the bolt in an effort to avoid AW possession. Under that case, somebody building a manually-operated rifle from scratch did not have an AW if it was never assembled as one. Somebody with an undrilled barrel is in a better position yet. Last edited by God Bless America; 09-18-2018 at 7:12 PM.. |
#26
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https://youtu.be/2qRYIAcW_7A |
#28
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You would not HAVE to remove the gas tube in those two cases, but you certainly CAN and SHOULD.
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#29
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-Gabe
__________________
Originally Posted by dieselpower... "I own several firearms, none of them are "toys". I hear a "bump" in the middle of the night...I am not reaching for my Xbox controller..." Originally Posted by CoopsDad... "Taking a Mosin to a smith for a new barrel is like taking a cat to the vet- easier and cheaper to just get another. " |
#30
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Last edited by God Bless America; 09-19-2018 at 7:40 AM.. |
#32
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If you don’t already have the upper, then the simplest route is to start with a mock dissipator. It has a low profile gas block and a separate FSB.
The gas block is secured by set screws, FSB is pinned. The work is done by moving the low profile gas block. Loosen the set screws in the gas block, slide it forward enough to remove the gas tube, slide gas block back and tilt to block the gas port, tighten set screws. Good source for mock dissipator is Palmetto State Armory. |
#33
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Most gas blocks have 2 setscrews. If you flip the block around so that the gas tube would be pointing forward and install the gas block's front setscrew at the rear, the gas block is now blocking the gas port in the barrel and the gas port in the gas block is over a part of the barrel with no gas port. No need to even cut up the gas tube. Just remove it and save it. |
#34
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These aren't cheap, but in my case, I built two stripped lowers with side cocking upper receivers that were converted to bolt action only by tapping the gas tube port behind the cloverleaf 3/8-16 with a 6" extension tap, and JB Weld epoxying a S.S. 3/8-16x 3/8" set screw into place from the rear so that the BCG would close with the gas key in place, and the bolt close with a headspace gauge installed. After curing, the epoxy adherence was tested with a hex key, until the wrench twisted without breaking the bond.
Also I had Hart Barrels custom build varmint contour barrels with NO Gas Port, two are 20" 1:9" twist .223 Wylde chambers, and a third is a 24" varmint contour barrel in .204 Ruger, that can be interchanged. The Colt M-4 California Model AR I had was modified to rimfire with a Alexander Arms complete .17 HMR upper (https://www.shopalexanderarms.com/17_HMR_Uppers.html) that included a rimfire magazine adapter, that permanently attaches to the lower. The Charging Handle was replaced with a Gunfighter Gear Side Charging Handle, for scope use (http://gfgear.com/charging-handles/a...g-side-charger. All three AR's are accurate and used for varmint hunting. The brass drops on my portable bench, is cool to the touch and not all smugged up, I use a brass catcher for the rimfire to avoid littering with spent cases. .223 Wylde Upper typical accuracy: Alexander Arms .17 HMR at 50 yards CCI TNT 16 grain Lead Free Sight in. .204 Ruger test loads, 10shots 100 yards. Last edited by Wrangler John; 09-19-2018 at 12:19 PM.. |
#35
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#36
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Quote:
-Gabe
__________________
Originally Posted by dieselpower... "I own several firearms, none of them are "toys". I hear a "bump" in the middle of the night...I am not reaching for my Xbox controller..." Originally Posted by CoopsDad... "Taking a Mosin to a smith for a new barrel is like taking a cat to the vet- easier and cheaper to just get another. " |
#37
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I know that you can't keep the pin, but you can just leave the pin out too and it will work fine with the set screws.
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Randall Rausch AR work: www.ar15barrels.com Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns. Most work performed while-you-wait, evening and saturday appointments available. |
#38
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Chuck a short piece of brass rod in a drill, sand/file to size, cut a notch, cut to length, and pin it into the block. No more gas.
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