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Firearms Accessories: Holsters, Safes, Lights & more If it locks up, carries, fits on to or cleans up your firearms, discuss it here.

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  #1  
Old 12-01-2008, 12:08 AM
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Default Basic safe information for beginners

Quote:
No safe is burglar proof, but a safe will buy time -- time is what the average burglar doesn't have. He wants to break in, steal something of value, and get out as quickly as possible.

-- Holt Bodinson
Start here: Gun Safe Buyers' Guide.

That page, at the bottom, has the direct links to twenty five (25) manufacturers' web sites, where anyone can explore the models available. Information at those links can help you answer questions like "How does X compare to Y?"

For further questions along those lines, it would be really helpful if you would provide the brand name and model number, and even better to provide a link to the manufacturer's web page for that exact safe.

The next link is on the above page, but Brown Safe Manufacturing has a page (among many others on the web) that explains the safe ratings for burglary and fire resistance. Lots of other info at Brown Safe, so browse a bit.

Some important terms in safe theft-resistance:

* Net Working Time - This is the UL term for testing time which is spent trying to break into a safe using tools such as diamond grinding wheels, high-speed drills with pressure applying devices, or common hand tools such as hammers, chisels, saws, and carbide-tip drills. If a safe has been rated with a 30-minute net working time, (TL30), the rating certifies that the safe successfully withstood a full 30 minutes of attack time with a range of tools.

* Theft resistant - This rating means the safe provides a combination lock and minimal theft protection.

* Residential Security Container rating (RSC) - This UL rating is based on testing conducted for a net working time of five minutes, on all sides, with a range of tools.

It costs the manufacturers money to have Underwriters' Labs certify their products. It is a manufacturer's business decision whether to spend that money for that purpose, and the lack of a UL rating is not necessarily a negative indicator.

------ Brief FAQ ------

Should I anchor my safe?
Generally, YES. If someone can move it in, someone else can move it out.

You need to worry about whether your landlord will complain about holes in the wall/floor, whether there are utilities under your concrete floor, whether the concrete is thick enough, whether the concrete is a tensioned slab, whether your safe already has anchoring holes.
Can I put my safe in my garage?
Generally, YES. If temperatures fluctuate inside the safe, you may need desiccant or something like a Golden Rod to keep moisture away from your guns.

There are also issues of visibility and access to your tools which may be used to open your safe!
Can I put my safe upstairs?
MAYBE.

Depends on how big it is - whether it will go up stairs or in a freight elevator, whether it will fit through halls and doorways.

Depends on how heavy it will be, loaded.

Depends on the kind of construction of the building.
Why can't I find Safe X on DOJ's Roster of Firearm Safety Devices Certified for Sale?
If it's a safe-sized box, it does not have to be on that Roster. DOJ says safes can be acceptable unlisted:
Quote:
Regulatory Gun Safe Standards

DOJ regulatory standards require a gun safe to meet either:

All of the following requirements:

1. Shall be able to fully contain firearms and provide for their secure storage;
2. Shall have a locking system consisting of at minimum a mechanical or electronic combination lock. The mechanical or electronic combination lock utilized by the safe shall have at least 10,000 possible combinations consisting of a minimum three numbers, letters, or symbols. The lock shall be protected by a case-hardened (Rc 60+) drill-resistant steel plate, or drill-resistant material of equivalent strength;
3. Boltwork shall consist of a minimum of three steel locking bolts of at least ½ inch thickness that intrude from the door of the safe into the body of the safe or from the body of the safe into the door of the safe, which are operated by a separate handle and secured by the lock;
4. Shall be capable of repeated use. The exterior walls shall be constructed of a minimum 12-gauge thick steel for a single-walled safe, or the sum of the steel walls shall add up to at least .100 inches for safes with two walls. Doors shall be constructed of a minimum of two layers of 12-gauge steel, or one layer of 7-gauge steel compound construction;
5. Door hinges shall be protected to prevent the removal of the door. Protective features include, but are not limited to: hinges not exposed to the outside, interlocking door designs, dead bars, jeweler’s lugs and active or inactive locking bolts.

or

All of the following requirements:

1. Is listed as an Underwriters Laboratories Residential Security Container;
2. Is able to fully contain firearms;
3. Provides for the secure storage of firearms.
How big a safe should I get?
Folk wisdom is "twice as big as you think you'll need". That doesn't always make economic sense, of course, but the number of guns - and other valuable things which fit in safes - tends to grow rather quickly.
Should I get a manual dial or an electronic keypad lock?
If you get a good one, it seems to be a tossup.

See Electronic Keypad VS Dial Combinations from Valuesafes.

Which does lead to "what is a good one?" Sargent & Greenleaf and Kaba/La Gard are the best-known reputable lock manufacturers. So-called "commercial" grade electronic locks are designed for more use, so tend to be more reliable.

It also appears that there are some models that keep the control electronics outside the safe, leaving the lock vulnerable to simple outside manipulation. Since S&G and La Gard locks are commonly available, there's no good reason to settle for less.

EMP (Electro-Magnetic Pulse) damage is certainly possible, and if it were to occur might disable the lock. Given the actual frequency of EMP events so far, few locks are designed to resist it.

If that really worries you, you can spend $1,000+ on an X-09.

Just as no thickness of safe wall or door is guaranteed to keep out criminals, no lock is perfect either.
California Law and safes
Once you have selected and installed a safe, or acquired a 'lock box', it is sometimes possible to satisfy California's firearms safety device requirement by submitting a 'safe affidavit' when purchasing a firearm.

See also the wiki section on locks and safes.
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Last edited by Librarian; 09-23-2011 at 8:27 PM..
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  #2  
Old 12-01-2008, 12:09 AM
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Some technical information...

What does 'gauge' mean for steel?
See the chart here: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ga...eet-d_915.html
How are burglary safes tested?
Here's the Underwriter's Laboratory description: http://www.ul.com/global/eng/pages/c...tymyths/safes/

For a rather dramatically-enhanced version, see Meilink TL30 Safe Burglary Test at UL on Youtube

That page also will bring up links to other safe-test videos.
What is the actual construction of a TL-15 or TL-30 Burglary resistant safe?
AMSEC has put that on their web site:

Construction Requirements
  • U.L. listed Group II, 1 or 1R combination lock.
  • 750 lbs. minimum or comes with instructions for anchoring in a larger safe, concrete blocks or on the premises where used.
  • Body walls of material equivalent to at least 1" open hearth steel with a minimum tensile strength of 50,000 P.S.I.
  • Walls fastened in a manner equivalent to continuous ¼" penetration weld of open hearth steel with minimum tensile strength of 50,000 P.S.I.
  • One hole ¼" or less, to accommodate electrical conductors arranged to have no direct view of the door or locking mechanism.
============

12/31/2011

Member cranemech found this excellent safe/lock Q&A site:

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Locksmithing-3110/
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"The object of life is not to be on the side of the majority, but to escape finding oneself in the ranks of the insane."

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Ann Althouse: “Begin with the hypothesis that what they did is what they wanted to do. If they postured that they wanted to do something else, regard that as a con. Work from there. The world will make much more sense.”

Not a lawyer, just Some Guy On The Interwebs.




Last edited by Librarian; 12-31-2011 at 2:17 PM..
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  #3  
Old 09-08-2011, 11:19 PM
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Feel free to add info to make this a better FAQ.
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ARCHIVED Calguns Foundation Wiki here: http://web.archive.org/web/201908310...itle=Main_Page

Frozen in 2015, it is falling out of date and I can no longer edit the content. But much of it is still good!
"The object of life is not to be on the side of the majority, but to escape finding oneself in the ranks of the insane."

- Marcus Aurelius
Ann Althouse: “Begin with the hypothesis that what they did is what they wanted to do. If they postured that they wanted to do something else, regard that as a con. Work from there. The world will make much more sense.”

Not a lawyer, just Some Guy On The Interwebs.



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Old 09-09-2011, 11:24 AM
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Excellent, I was just looking for one!
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  #5  
Old 09-23-2011, 2:01 PM
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I filled out the bottom half of the affidavit (for DOJ lockbox) and produced the receipt from the online company it was purchased from. I made sure it was on the list. All went smoothly. thanks
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Old 12-31-2011, 2:28 PM
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Just found what seems to be a useful link:

There is also an entire blog about gun safes - http://gunsafesblogger.com/ - associated with a commercial site. (They're big fans of 'buy American' - a good plan, I think, if you can afford it.)

Quote:
About

Here you’ll find free information about gun safes and home safes including videos, reviews, How-To articles, and useful tips. Stay informed about new products and promotional offers on safes and other security products. The Gun-Safe-Guru is experienced with all types of safes and has a vast database of information to draw from – feel free to ask a question any time!
It IS a commercial site.


And, member cranemech found this excellent safe/lock Q&A site:

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Locksmithing-3110/


Although it has little to do with safes, this .pdf doc has a nice discussion of locks: http://www.blackhat.com/presentation...t_ollam-WP.pdf


Gun Hoo has reviews and comparisons; they say they are
Quote:
The Comprehensive Consumer Resource for Safes for the Home and Office

Update 6/26/13

Another article, this time from Gun World - their Buyer's Guide (2011)
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ARCHIVED Calguns Foundation Wiki here: http://web.archive.org/web/201908310...itle=Main_Page

Frozen in 2015, it is falling out of date and I can no longer edit the content. But much of it is still good!
"The object of life is not to be on the side of the majority, but to escape finding oneself in the ranks of the insane."

- Marcus Aurelius
Ann Althouse: “Begin with the hypothesis that what they did is what they wanted to do. If they postured that they wanted to do something else, regard that as a con. Work from there. The world will make much more sense.”

Not a lawyer, just Some Guy On The Interwebs.




Last edited by Librarian; 07-18-2015 at 12:58 PM.. Reason: update link
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Old 06-05-2012, 4:02 PM
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kinda explains things a lil better. good info
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Old 06-05-2012, 4:08 PM
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Two issues I continue to wonder about:

* Best moisture barrier to install if safe is bolt to concrete slab. Many have moisture problems.

* How do you seal the penetrations in the safe (bolt holes, power hole, etc) to address moisture (maintain moisture barrier) and fire concerns (heat expanding sealer?).
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AAShooter View Post
Two issues I continue to wonder about:

* Best moisture barrier to install if safe is bolt to concrete slab. Many have moisture problems.

* How do you seal the penetrations in the safe (bolt holes, power hole, etc) to address moisture (maintain moisture barrier) and fire concerns (heat expanding sealer?).
AS far as a moisture barrier is concerned, you could put silicone caulk around the washers on the bolts into the floor, I doubt a membrane would help, but TBH, I have never considered this an issue before right now.

You question about sealing holes against fire penetration, a simple commercial fire caulk will do the trick. DO NOT USE product designated residential fire block, they are not the same. Great Stuff Fireblock (expanding foam) is flammable... worthless. Get the 3m stuff it's the right way to go.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burbur View Post
AS far as a moisture barrier is concerned, you could put silicone caulk around the washers on the bolts into the floor, I doubt a membrane would help, but TBH, I have never considered this an issue before right now.

You question about sealing holes against fire penetration, a simple commercial fire caulk will do the trick. DO NOT USE product designated residential fire block, they are not the same. Great Stuff Fireblock (expanding foam) is flammable... worthless. Get the 3m stuff it's the right way to go.
Thanks for the comments. As far as moisture barrier, some have suggested cutting a piece of sheet aluminum to put under the safe, some suggest tar paper, some suggest using a vapor barrier used for laminate flooring, some suggest coating the bottom of the safe with a silicone caulk, some suggest sealing the garage floor, some suggest mounting it so it is slightly elevated so air can circulated . . . lots of suggestions/ideas . . .
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Old 02-02-2013, 11:56 PM
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Default Very informative gun safe video *WATCH*


Great info for anyone, especially us gun owners.
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:27 AM
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Long and fundamental
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United Air Epic Fail Video ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u99Q7pNAjvg
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:07 AM
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question here I am soon to be first time gun owner on 02/09/2013 and who do I submit the safe affidavit too, would I need to submit directly by mail or fax to CA DOJ or to the FFL. I will be buying a safe in the next couple of days before I pick up the firearm.

Last edited by ROAD_DOG; 02-04-2013 at 12:34 AM..
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Old 02-04-2013, 12:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROAD_DOG View Post
question here I am soon to be first time gun owner on 02/09/2013 and who do I submit the safe affidavit too, would it be directly to CA DOJ or to the FFL I will be buying a safe in the next couple of before I pick up the firearm.
FFL keeps it, as documentation the gun was delivered as the law requires.
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Ann Althouse: “Begin with the hypothesis that what they did is what they wanted to do. If they postured that they wanted to do something else, regard that as a con. Work from there. The world will make much more sense.”

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Old 02-04-2013, 12:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Librarian View Post
FFL keeps it, as documentation the gun was delivered as the law requires.
oh ok I see and would I need to have the lock box or safe with me when I pick up the firearm to transport back home.
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AAShooter View Post
Thanks for the comments. As far as moisture barrier, some have suggested cutting a piece of sheet aluminum to put under the safe, some suggest tar paper, some suggest using a vapor barrier used for laminate flooring, some suggest coating the bottom of the safe with a silicone caulk, some suggest sealing the garage floor, some suggest mounting it so it is slightly elevated so air can circulated . . . lots of suggestions/ideas . . .
Responding to an old post, here, but:

One issue to be aware of is galvantic corrosion. If you use metal as a barrier between the safe and the floor, make sure it's the same kind of metal as the safe. In other words, if you have a steel safe, don't use aluminum sheeting, or you will actually accelerate the corrosion process if any moisture ever gets in there. This is particularly an issue if you live near the ocean, as salts compound the problem. The key point is just to make sure the metals don't touch, however... if you wanted to use sheet aluminum but cover the sheeting with a plastic/rubber membrane, like shower pan liner, that would solve the metal-to-metal problem. This can be an issue (to a MUCH lesser extent) with steel to steel as well, if you use drastically different grades of sheet steel, so I'd go ahead use some sort of barrier there as well.

Personally, I'm thinking some ceramic floor tiles would do the job of elevating the safe a tad without any danger of burning, and they'd be plenty strong enough to hold the weight (as long as the safe is lowered onto them relatively carefully).
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Old 02-15-2013, 8:58 PM
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I've been looking into a vapor barrier solution before bolting my safe down. I've got some leftover Redgard from a bathroom remodel. Figure I'll apply a coating or two to the bottom of the safe and to the floor where it will be installed.

Any thoughts on Redgard?
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Old 02-15-2013, 10:35 PM
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I'm no expert on safes, I just have some experience with unexpected issues with dissimilar metals in wet conditions. Any sort of effective non-metal vapor barrier should be fine, I'd think. The one advantage to raising the safe off the ground, however, is keeping things bone dry in the hopefully unlikely event of unexpected water. One spilled beer (let alone an actual water leak) can introduce water between the floor and whatever is touching the floor. If its the safe touching the floor, whether or not the floor itself it waterproof won't stop liquid for wicking in, and once between the floor and the safe bottom, that moisture is going to be stuck for a LONG time. That's why I like the idea of getting the safe up off the ground at least 1/4" or so, and ideally allowing at least some airflow to dry anything that manages to get in along the floor (or at least it won't matter since its not the safe bottom).
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Old 03-19-2013, 1:42 PM
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1/4" gap under a safe is plenty of room to get a saw blade in there to cut the bolts. Just sayin. Something to think about.
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Old 03-19-2013, 3:50 PM
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Good point, although (a) that's sure not an easy cutting angle, and (b) must be one hell of a saw to reach the BACK bolts as well as the front ones.
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Old 04-07-2013, 6:49 AM
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Anyone have a good source on how to move one? I've got an 800 pound safe coming in about 4 weeks.
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Old 10-18-2013, 9:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpoonKiller View Post
Anyone have a good source on how to move one? I've got an 800 pound safe coming in about 4 weeks.
A sturdy dolly and a couple (few) good friends. I just had a 560 lb safe delivered awhile back. One trick that helps quite a bit is taking the door off before you move it. This reduces the weight significantly.
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Old 11-27-2013, 12:08 AM
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For you fellas worried about leaving a gap under the safe for fear of crooks using a sawzall and hacking your anchor bolts and stealing the safe, FEAR NOT!!! A trip to your local auto parts store and about $25 bucks will make them damn near impossible to saw!!! Get yourself 4 wheel hub bearings. The ones shaped like this, \_/ and its a ton of needle bearings covering the outside. Have fun cutting them, lol. Iv found its pretty damn hard to cut somethig that spins. A buddy of mine showed me this trick. And i tried to prove him wrong with a sawzall and attack the bearing covered anchor bolts that were secured to the garage floor. I failed miserably. cheap investment that will almost guarentee your safe stays put.
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Old 12-07-2013, 3:13 PM
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Hello, still kinda new here on the CG site but as a 3rd generation locksmith and safe tech, if anyone has any questions concerning the physical safe or locks, feel free to pm me. I have used, sold, installed and worked on a number of safes and vaults through the years. So if I don't have the answer right away I can certainly get the information to you and or point you in the right direction.
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Old 12-07-2013, 7:26 PM
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Wow, great info. Will try the hub bearing trick.
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Old 12-07-2014, 1:49 AM
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http://gunsafereviewsguy.com/articles/
Lots of useful info.
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Old 07-19-2016, 8:44 PM
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Don't know why I was looking, but ran across this a day or so ago: http://www.sargentandgreenleaf.com/EMP/

Quote:
Sargent & Greenleaf Electronic Locks are
TESTED and PROVEN EMP-Resistant

Sargent & Greenleaf's high-security electronic locks are proven to withstand military-level EMP attacks, giving you full access to your valuables even after an EMP emergency.
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"The object of life is not to be on the side of the majority, but to escape finding oneself in the ranks of the insane."

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Ann Althouse: “Begin with the hypothesis that what they did is what they wanted to do. If they postured that they wanted to do something else, regard that as a con. Work from there. The world will make much more sense.”

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Old 07-25-2017, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Librarian View Post
Don't know why I was looking, but ran across this a day or so ago: http://www.sargentandgreenleaf.com/EMP/
Gun safes are changed over the years now. There are a lot of things to look into now. Moreover, the steel construction is quite tricky. Heavier the gun safe is lesser its portability and become more of a pain to move it around. But the good news is that the heavier it is likely that more steel is used in construction and hence you get a more tougher gun safe.
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Old 07-26-2017, 6:30 AM
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Is this a blog entry? As these info's are really unique and helpful and I also want to know more about California law and rules about gun safes, So can you provide me a source for it which is carrying detail entry in that matter?
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Old 10-14-2017, 12:04 PM
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KenSFO posted this link: http://gunsafereviewsguy.com/article...-fire-ratings/

Good info.

Same source as Tararam linked to in 2014.
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Old 10-14-2017, 2:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Librarian View Post
Don't know why I was looking, but ran across this a day or so ago: http://www.sargentandgreenleaf.com/EMP/
SecuRam makes an electronic lock with a mechanical redundant feature. It's called the "Xtreme" and is available in both the SafeLogic and ProLogic access features. They even have a model that can be opened by entering your code on your phone via Bluetooth.

I've installed a few of these since 2014 and have had no calls about problems. I have even installed two on TL-30X6 rated safes.

The mechanical function is an internal 3-wheel mechanism similar to LaGard or S&G, but it is hidden from the outside to the casual inspection. The keypad they use is Gorilla glass, like the iPhone and is very durable and reliable. It's not cheap, but if you want reliability and EMP protection, it's a good choice.

Here's are two links to YouTube videos about the lock. The first is more introductory and is about 2 minutes long. The second is a more in-depth look at the lock, set-up, programming, combination-changing, etc.:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWXHgrNs3Ss

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lK2GlyFbJKI


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https://www.advancedsafe.com/
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Old 10-14-2017, 2:53 PM
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Default Installation video for the SafeLogic Xtreme EMP-proof Lock

This one is made by the factory customer service department. I've found that SecuRam's instructional videos (both for consumers and safe technicians) are quite well done and that customer and professional safetech support are both top notch!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZOwQJJBtpE


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Old 10-14-2017, 3:18 PM
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Default Updated Xtreme installation instructions

This video was added to SecuRam's YouTube playlist because it shows the installation as a retrofit for another brand of E-lock. It also emphasizes, from the very beginning, the importance of properly installing the safe's relock check plate on the new Xtreme to prevent a lockout.

Unbelievable as it might seem, I've been called out to open safes that were locked-up by locksmiths because they either failed to properly secure the relock check plate and/or they neglected to test the lock and boltwork functions at least 3 times before closing the safe door after an installation or during service.

As I've said, the videos and support from SecuRam are quite good and always being improved.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYRMLjRF9AI


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Old 11-28-2017, 1:09 PM
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I found this website with a ton of good information on different types of safes and rankings for each category: https://www.expertsafereviews.com/

Not much on Gun Safes yet, but their handgun safe and accessory information is dead on.
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Old 11-18-2018, 9:14 AM
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Default Article on Underwriter's Labs Fire ratings for safes

UL 72 and related: https://gunsafereviewsguy.com/articl...-fire-ratings/
Quote:
Gun safe manufacturers who use gypsum drywall as fireproofing don’t bother paying for UL 72 testing because it’s expensive, and their products have no chance of passing.

UL 72 listings are the industry and insurance company standard levels of protection in a fire. For safes that can’t pass UL 72, no universal standard for fire ratings testing exists in the fire safe or gun safe industry.
ETA - just noticed it's a dupe from 2017, but I'll leave it since it's timely with the recent fires.
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Last edited by Librarian; 11-18-2018 at 9:21 AM..
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  #36  
Old 11-18-2018, 11:32 AM
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A review page, comparing some RSCs and some real safes: https://topratedgunsafes.com/best-gun-safes/
Quote:
Depending on your needs and where you live, you should keep certain things in mind before buying a Gun Safe.

1. The available space to put up a gun safe

Gun safes can take up a lot of space. You need to choose a gun safe according to the space available and the guns you’ll be putting in them. As mentioned above, these gun safes can weigh up to 1,000 lbs. You need to make sure your floor can support it.

2. Things You’ll Be Storing In Them

Since this safe will probably be the safest storage place in your house, you might end up storing more than just guns in them. Many people end up storing their electronic devices, jewelry, and important papers in these gun safes.

3. Chances of robbery in your area

You might want to check the robbery rate in your locality before you get a gun safe. If the robbery rates are high in your area, you shouldn’t shy away from buying the best gun safe you can afford. This might end up saving you more money than you invest in this thing.

4. Fire

A fire has got to be one of the biggest reasons people get a safe for their guns and other valuables. This hazard happens too often, so gun safe manufacturers have made fireproof safes. You need to consider this fireproof feature too.

5. Possibility of Floods and Water Damage

While you’re buying a gun safe, you need to let your imagination run wild with everything that could possibly go wrong. It is a known fact firearms can’t handle water. You need a safe which could keep your guns away from water damage.

6. Accessibility

There might be cases where there isn’t a place for you to setup a gun safe at a low key place in your house. You might end up installing it somewhere in your living room or at a place where it can be seen. You need to go for a heavier safe in this case since seeing a safe in your home might tip off potential robbers.
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"The object of life is not to be on the side of the majority, but to escape finding oneself in the ranks of the insane."

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Ann Althouse: “Begin with the hypothesis that what they did is what they wanted to do. If they postured that they wanted to do something else, regard that as a con. Work from there. The world will make much more sense.”

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  #37  
Old 09-28-2019, 8:08 AM
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A site explaining burglary ratings, and some of the non-Underwriter's Labs fire ratings -

https://www.maximumsecurity.com/safe...-Guide-d92.htm
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ARCHIVED Calguns Foundation Wiki here: http://web.archive.org/web/201908310...itle=Main_Page

Frozen in 2015, it is falling out of date and I can no longer edit the content. But much of it is still good!
"The object of life is not to be on the side of the majority, but to escape finding oneself in the ranks of the insane."

- Marcus Aurelius
Ann Althouse: “Begin with the hypothesis that what they did is what they wanted to do. If they postured that they wanted to do something else, regard that as a con. Work from there. The world will make much more sense.”

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  #38  
Old 09-16-2021, 2:09 PM
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Default Tips for moving your safe in place

First, depending on the size and weight, making this a DIY project could be a dangerous disaster. Leverage is your friend however it can become you worst nightmare if a really heavy object tilts a little too far and somebody becomes a pancake. Seriously consider getting a couple of quotes from a reputable company and let them take the responsibility of damages and injury.

With that said I did move my 48x26x72 1800 lb safe in place with the help of my daughter, methodical planning, and an indispensable tool called Roll-A-Lifts. Moved it from the garage, around through my front door, through the kitchen, and in to a room. Took about 4 hours from start to finish including cutting and laying down plywood to protect the wood and tile floors, making a ramp, etc.

Before moving anything I bought several cardboard moving boxes and taped them together to use as a model of my safe. Then I used the model to check clearances, making corners, etc.. When I tried the model on the "plan A" route (the short route) through my house I discovered I couldn’t make the last turn due to the dimensions of the safe so this step saved me a lot of wasted time and effort.
After planning a new route I used the boxes to put under the plywood so I didn’t scratch the wood floors with the plywood. I used 1.5" wooden dowels to roll the safe in it's final place as the Roll-A-Lifts would not allow me to get it against the interior walls.

As for moisture barriers I used a rubber mat of sorts under my safe. They are usually referred to as livestock mats or stall mats and are generally made from recycled rubber and range from 1/4" thick to maybe 5/8" thick.
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  #39  
Old 09-19-2021, 10:17 AM
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All good advice here, especially the template. I just had Boswell install a 42" x 24" x 72" 1400# safe at my place. It's an extremely meticulous process. They used a low profile pallet jack and it took about 90 minutes to get from the sidewalk to a relatively simple location in my garage. Best $400 I've spent in a while. They use hockey pucks for moisture, but my safe has "feet" built in so didn't need them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Madhatter6288 View Post
First, depending on the size and weight, making this a DIY project could be a dangerous disaster. Leverage is your friend however it can become you worst nightmare if a really heavy object tilts a little too far and somebody becomes a pancake. Seriously consider getting a couple of quotes from a reputable company and let them take the responsibility of damages and injury.

With that said I did move my 48x26x72 1800 lb safe in place with the help of my daughter, methodical planning, and an indispensable tool called Roll-A-Lifts. Moved it from the garage, around through my front door, through the kitchen, and in to a room. Took about 4 hours from start to finish including cutting and laying down plywood to protect the wood and tile floors, making a ramp, etc.

Before moving anything I bought several cardboard moving boxes and taped them together to use as a model of my safe. Then I used the model to check clearances, making corners, etc.. When I tried the model on the "plan A" route (the short route) through my house I discovered I couldn’t make the last turn due to the dimensions of the safe so this step saved me a lot of wasted time and effort.
After planning a new route I used the boxes to put under the plywood so I didn’t scratch the wood floors with the plywood. I used 1.5" wooden dowels to roll the safe in it's final place as the Roll-A-Lifts would not allow me to get it against the interior walls.

As for moisture barriers I used a rubber mat of sorts under my safe. They are usually referred to as livestock mats or stall mats and are generally made from recycled rubber and range from 1/4" thick to maybe 5/8" thick.
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Old 09-21-2021, 3:29 PM
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Having a great safe is great, but providing a reliable, layered defense system is essential.

1. Make it difficult to get to the safe.

If the safe is in the house or garage, fortify the doors/locks to resist entry. Many doors can be opened by jamming a screw driver between the door and jam and prying until the latch releases. A less-sophisticated entry can be made simply by kicking the door. The door jambs are often made with cheap pine. The lock may hold, but the jamb will splinter and come apart. This is helped along by using short screws to hold the locking plate in the jamb. Using 4" screws which can reach the stud behind the jamb significantly reinforces that point. Longer screws to hold the hinges work on the other side. Metal reinforcement plates are available to further reinforce.

2. Get an alarm system on the house...and use it.

3. As a minimum, get a portable camera and siren like the Ring series battery-powered stick up. Motion detector turns on spotlight and siren while the camera videos the the action and transmits to you. Nobody's gonna hang around with a siren and camera running.
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