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Gunsmithing & How To Pro, Amateur & WECSOG and Tutorials, Guides & OLL Build Instructions |
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#1
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Mylar tape to protect from scratches?
Hey guys,
I seemed to recall a gunsmith telling me he uses Mylar tape to protect a gun barrel from scratches when it is cinched down in a shop vise. Is there a specific tape I need? Is the foil tape used for HVAC insulation good enough? I have a brand new AR upper whose muzzle device I'm trying to take off. I've dipped it in boiling water for 20 minutes, clamped it in Delrin vise jaws and it spun in the vise. I then torched it with a propane torch until it smoked, and it still spun in the vise. If I get it any hotter, I'm afraid of melting my Delrin vise jaws. I'm thinking of using my aluminum vise jaws but I don't want to scratch my new barrel. I have a barrel reaction rod coming in the mail, but I kind of want to do it this weekend. Thanks in advance! .
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The wife will be pissed, but Jesus always forgives. |
#2
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If the muzzle device is on that tight. Do not use a reaction rod to try and loosen.
Make sure that muzzle device is not pinned on. Is that barrel less than 16 inches ? Is it a factory installed muzzle device ?
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Been gone too long. It's been 15 to 20 years since i had to shelf my guns. Those early years sucked. I really miss the good old Pomona Gun Shows. I'm Back. |
#3
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The barrel is 18 inches, and yes, it’s factory installed. I can’t see a reason why they’d pin and weld it. Is it possible my Delrin vise jaws are just too slippery?
.
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The wife will be pissed, but Jesus always forgives. |
#5
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Thanks. I guess that is a moment. I'll get some Mylar tape from Home Depot (my new favorite store now) and use the aluminum vise jaws.
.
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The wife will be pissed, but Jesus always forgives. |
#6
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Mechforce - Professional Grade Heavy Duty Barrel Vise, Barrel Surface Protection Design https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HU4GNSG..._sF1kDbGJYF1F1
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#7
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Quote:
But, I'm too cheap and besides, I'd like to do the job today. Maybe I'll locate some sort of leather to protect the barrel... .
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The wife will be pissed, but Jesus always forgives. |
#8
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Quote:
Wrap a single non-overlapping layer around the barrel and use the aluminum blocks. Make the vise as tight as you can. Then get it tighter.
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Randall Rausch AR work: www.ar15barrels.com Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns. Most work performed while-you-wait, evening and saturday appointments available. |
#9
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I would heat it up again. Hot. But outside. Not in the vise.
__________________
Been gone too long. It's been 15 to 20 years since i had to shelf my guns. Those early years sucked. I really miss the good old Pomona Gun Shows. I'm Back. |
#10
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I gave up for now. I tightened aluminum barrel clamps with a 2' lead pipe extension on the vise handle and again heated it up until the CLP on the barrel was smoking. The barrel still spun. It's still too hot to touch to see if Randall's paper suggestion protected the barrel. I'll find out after lunch.
I wonder if the barrel where I clamped has a taper that I can't see, such that the clamped part is actually a very narrow portion. I'll mike it after lunch. If that is not the case, I'm sending the upper back to Larue to have the brake removed. I'm too much of a klutz to try to clamp a smoking hot barrel in a vise, so am afraid to try your suggestion, baih777 .
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The wife will be pissed, but Jesus always forgives. |
#11
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It’s been well worth the purchase for me, haven’t had an issue since buying. Good luck!
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#12
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I guess the entire barrel tapers from the barrel nut to the muzzle end, so when I try to cinch it down at any spot, only the parts of the vise jaw closest to the nut is biting. Looks like either I have to invest in a dedicated barrel vise like AIHO1966 posted above, or I'll have to have a real gunsmith do this for me. .
__________________
The wife will be pissed, but Jesus always forgives. |
#13
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Beanz, if you're in the bay area and really want to use a reaction rod this weekend, you can borrow mine just send me a PM. However yours sounds more difficult than your typical case...
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#14
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Quote:
When you really have to apply some torque, I use a high-quality piece of stationary as the rag-fiber isn't as "slippery" as cheaper white notebook paper. The aluminum jaws very likely will leave some marks, especially if the barrel is parked. I have good luck removing aluminum smears from park using a fine brass-bristle brush. Once the aluminum is gone, I use household ammonia to remove the brass residue from the park, leaving no evidence of work having been done. |
#15
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Quote:
Quote:
As my mother used to say, quit while you're ahead. So I did .
__________________
The wife will be pissed, but Jesus always forgives. |
#16
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#17
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Can you post a few pics.
__________________
Been gone too long. It's been 15 to 20 years since i had to shelf my guns. Those early years sucked. I really miss the good old Pomona Gun Shows. I'm Back. |
#18
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I wish I had taken pics
I was so wrapped up with getting it done (and end up didn't) .
__________________
The wife will be pissed, but Jesus always forgives. |
#19
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I've used this for installing/removing AR 15 brakes and barrels.
https://www.primaryarms.com/wheeler-...l-clamp-672286 |
#22
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Quote:
Often when I had a machining problem, I'd ask Don for advice. Eventually I learned that whatever challenges I encountered were the same challenges he encountered--except he knew how to control those challenges before they became challenges. One day he imparted the wisdom of using a piece of paper in the vise jaws. It wasn't long until I had a problem of a piece walking out of my milling machine vise. I remembered what Don said, so I tore off a couple pieces, put them on the vise jaws, and my work stuck to the vise like it was welded in place. Now it's SOP for me to have paper readily available at the mill. I use those scratch pads that the realtors drop off at the front door. Sometimes I even use the paper in the lathe chuck. |
#23
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If you need to do this often, there may be a problem with the vise your using or your machining practices or the machine itself. |
#24
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What size/ type wrench are you using on the brake?
Do you have enough leverage to break the brake free? A smaller wrench is possibly going to transfer the torque to the upper A larger - longer wrench smacked with a hammer can get enough torque to release the tension from crush washer or whatever was used to attach the brake
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Rule 1- ALL GUNS ARE ALWAYS LOADED Rule 2 -NEVER LET THE MUZZLE COVER ANYTHING YOU ARE NOT PREPARED TO DESTROY (including your hands and legs) Rule 3 -KEEP YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER UNTIL YOUR SIGHTS ARE ON THE TARGET Rule 4 -BE SURE OF YOUR TARGET AND WHAT IS BEYOND IT (thanks to Jeff Cooper) |
#26
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Um... thanks.
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#28
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Tape get slippery. Leather is squishy. Aluminum does not give enough. Lead is too soft. Plastic is slippery. What else? ....
Just use fitted hardwood blocks, like maple and some rosin powder. Really. If you are using a vice with smooth steel jaws, on a square object, by all means rosin up a business card and slip it in there. Last edited by Scota4570; 08-28-2019 at 3:38 PM.. |
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