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Centerfire Rifles - Manually Operated Lever action, bolt action or other non gas operated centerfire rifles. |
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#1
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Tikka/X Ray chassis set up
Thinking of going a cheaper route than over $10,000.00 for an AI to break into long range shooting.
Looking at the Tikka rifles on an X Ray chassis. Unless I'm missing it they don't make it in .338 Lapua which I was kind of set on. I was thinking I could buy the T3x varmint in .223, throw it on an X Ray chassis with a quality optic, and then after having some cheap fun and practicing I could swap out the receiver for a better caliber suited for 1-1,600m. Seems like a huge savings over AI with a still plenty good set up, on the same chassis and optic I would become accustomed to. Any recommendations on the next closest round to .338 as far as BC and stopping power? Would 300WM be plenty for my application(eventual 1 mile shot)? I cant seem to find a chart comparing various ammunition ballistics. Prefer a round that might still be acceptable for deer and elk, but more concerned with long range target shooting performance. Any complaints or dislikes about the Tikka/Xray I'd like to hear before I start going down this road as well. Thanks. |
#2
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I hunt so I'm no expert on long-range target shooting but as others will likely tell you, it makes no sense to use a long-range target rifle for hunting because they're too heavy to carry in the field. For deer and elk you need a .270, .30-06, 6.5 Creedmoor, or a .300 win magnum (I use a .30-06).
Check out the ballistics calculator at gundata.org, which allows you to compare bullets and loads. All you need is bullet weight, ballistic coefficient and muzzle velocity, all of which are available from bullet and ammo manufacturer web sites. that might help you decide on a caliber for long-range shooting. If you do this right, you can pick up a very respectable hunting rifle and decent 3-9 power scope for about $1k, then get something more suitable for long range, and still stay well under $10k for everything. |
#4
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If you were looking at spending $10,000
You should look at a Barrett in 338 lapua. A lot cheaper.
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Been gone too long. It's been 15 to 20 years since i had to shelf my guns. Those early years sucked. I really miss the good old Pomona Gun Shows. I'm Back. |
#5
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Ruger Precision Rifle is under $1500 for a .338 Lapua. Savage Stealth Evolution in .338 is about $1600 and comes in a fairly nice chassis.
BTW, you don't need a .338 Lapua to make a mile. People are shooting 6.5 CM's a mile. If you had your heart set on a Tikka, just get a TAC-A1 .300 Winchester Magnum. The rifle is $1600-1700 and it comes in a nice chassis. If you want overkill, get an ordinary T3X in .300 Winmag and get it rebarreled in .300 PRC. You would have to find a chassis that fits it, because it uses an extra long magazine. That cartridge has plenty of punch for 1 mile shots, and more. https://www.shootingillustrated.com/...rnady-300-prc/. |
#6
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Thanks for the replies. Thinking I may not be able to do this plan regardless of what I chose.
The better question is- Is there a chassis I can fit both a .223 and .338 into or will I need separate ones for each because of the long/short action? |
#9
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Also a 338 Lapua isnt a great choice to start shooting long range. Its going go be an expensive learning curve. You can get something a lot cheaper in 6.5 Creed and get some trigger time. After you learn the basics sell it and then move on to something bigger if you really need. The reality is most shooters never grow past what a 6.5 can do.
Rifles to look at would also include a 700 5R in 6.5 |
#10
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Whoooaaaahhhh. Slow down cowboy.
Don't dump $10,000 into a rifle right away. You can shoot a mile with a 6.5 Creedmoor. 300 Win Mag is an EXCELLENT cartridge. If you want a long range target rifle, 300 Win Mag is great, so is the 7mm Rem. Mag. I'd personally start with a Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor. You can get a Burris or Vortex PST scope for about $800 on opticsplanet this weekend. Then, just get out there and work on your marksmanship skills. |
#11
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Quote:
There are no chassis that take both short actions and long actions because short actions and long actions have different screw spacings. Your chassis has to match your action if they are separate parts.
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Randall Rausch AR work: www.ar15barrels.com Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns. Most work performed while-you-wait, evening and saturday appointments available. |
#12
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Yeah, I compete with my DTI regularly. I have 338 LM, 300 Win Mag, 6.5 Creedmoor and 308.
DTI doesn't make a .223 but Short Action Customs does make a 223 conversion kit. Cool thing is you only need one good scope. Oh, and I think Barrett has a rifle similar to the DTI. Last edited by Sir Toast; 11-25-2018 at 8:22 PM.. |
#15
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There are no 338 Lapua chambered Tikka T3's.
The action is not big/strong enough.
__________________
Randall Rausch AR work: www.ar15barrels.com Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns. Most work performed while-you-wait, evening and saturday appointments available. |
#16
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OP, I am in a similar position. I wan't to get into the long range game. I wan't too try out a chassis vs the normal stocks that I've always shot. So I just Black Friday DROS'd a Tikka T3x CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor. I plan to drop it into an X-Ray chassis for long range paper punching, and back into the lighter stock for hunting. I chose 6.5 Creedmoor, for long range/low recoil. .338 or .300 Win. Mag. will beat you up over a long day at the range; 223 will run out of steam. I hunt with a 30.06 pump action carbine or a 300WSM bolt gun depending on the situation. I can't spend all day at the range with either. I'm hoping the 6.5 Creed, will cover all three roles. I can reload for all of the above, but held off buying a 6.5 Creed until I started seeing it at Walmart and Big 5, for obvious reasons.
Last edited by Nick Adams; 11-26-2018 at 6:04 AM.. Reason: LAUSD |
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