Gun Stock Full Refinishing....Which wood pore stock filler?

[mtenenhaus]

Hi, wondering which wood stock pore filler people prefer for a nice ultimate finish?
appreciate your help.

['ol shooter]

Hmm, thought we already did this one, maybe I'm just having a "Senior Moment"? Two popular methods are slurry sanding to fill the pores with wood dust, and the other is using de-waxed shellac. Google them and lots of information will appear.

[mtenenhaus]

Ol shooter...first of all, thank you
you're 100% correct and i really appreciate the help. you're always very generous with your help and information

We went to Home Depot and they said they didn't have a product called dewaxed shellac?

The stock is already well sanded to a nice degree and there is concern that further sanding the surface to create a slurry might reduce the overall height too much.

[kendog4570]

Whisker the stock and you'll have sanding dust to fill with. Get it good and wet with tepid water and let it dry. Then freeze the standing fibers with thinned tru oil or the like. Put on all it will take and let dry. Then successive light sanding in of finish will create a slurry. Let it get tacky and dont wipe it all off. 220, 320, 400, 600 wet or dry to sand in with.



https://www.brownells.com/guntech/st....htm?lid=17772

[Crusader Matt]

I found this video helpful for stock pore filling to produce a nice (oil) finish. This produced a high gloss finish on my Rem 870 (lots of fillings and coats) and a nice sealed finish on my M1 Garand (a couple fillings and coats).

6:25-13:40 is the part:

[mtenenhaus]

thank you all...will review the info just now

['ol shooter]

Zinsser Seal Coat shellac is the de-waxed version, and it actually takes very little sanding to produce enough slurry to seal the pores. Larry Potterfield of Midway has a good video on it on You Tube. Good luck, hope your project turns out well, don't forget to post pics when you want.

[mtenenhaus]

will do, we're fixing a big crack right now.

[SharedShots]

Originally Posted by kendog4570

Whisker the stock and you'll have sanding dust to fill with. Get it good and wet with tepid water and let it dry. Then freeze the standing fibers with thinned tru oil or the like. Put on all it will take and let dry. Then successive light sanding in of finish will create a slurry. Let it get tacky and dont wipe it all off. 220, 320, 400, 600 wet or dry to sand in with.



https://www.brownells.com/guntech/st....htm?lid=17772

Truoil.

Back before it gave everyone who touched it cancer (as we are now warned), nothing beat heel of the palm rubbed Truoil (don't think you can get it anymore in CA IIRC). Even today, not much can beat it. 15 coats 800 grit wet sanded in-between.about took care of a set of 1911 panels.

So what if it took weeks.

[kendog4570]

Pilkingtons is good stuff too. Get Tru Oil on Amazon.
Eff the greenies.

['ol shooter]

I bought a big bottle of Tru-Oil off Amazon a few years back, I don't know if you can still obtain it there. I bought a couple gallons of real Mineral Spirits there too, and you definitely cannot get it there any longer.

[mtenenhaus]

thanks...i ordered the shellac from amazon and i already have the oil.

may i ask another question. We had to repair a large crack, basically the stock was broken in half....the repair involved two crossing lag screws from different directions and epoxy. it looks pretty good and it's a strong repair but you can still see the crack line despite sanding etc. here's a photo. i tried rubbing in wood putty but of course the epoxy is to flat to the surface so the putty doesn't do anything. Any thoughts on how to minimize the show? (there's some water on the stock) thank you
[IMG][/IMG]

[kendog4570]

Anschutz??

[mtenenhaus]

yes...my friend's old single shot anschutz, we think it's from the 70s or maybe early 80s...i'm not sure what model exactly as i've only seen the wood stock. I have an unused recoil pad from my trapshooting days that might fit it with a little work...at least that's the plan. I had some bluing chemicals that he's using to re-blue the screws and plates.

would like to get rid of the discolored areas of the wood....light sanding hasn't done the job......

and i'd like to see if we can mask or camouflage the crack repair site.

then we have to figure out how to bring out the dark color of the grip without obscuring the texture

['ol shooter]

Hide glue will fill the crack and it can be stained, unlike synthetic glues. You can get it at a woodworking store and Amazon sells it too. It usually comes as dried crystals you reconstitute. I found a pre mixed liquid by Titebond on Amazon, should fix you up.
hide glue.JPG
The stains in the grip can sometimes be lightened up by soaking the area with a towel wetted with real Mineral Spirits or using Diatomaceous Earth to soak up oil. It is also sold as Whiting.

[mtenenhaus]

thank you so very much.....i will order this just now.
i'm very appreciative of everyone's efforts on our behalf

have a safe and wonderful holiday

[bigbossman]

Originally Posted by kendog4570

Anschutz??

Looks like a 64MS stock.

[mtenenhaus]

i honestly don't know the model but i do know it's an older single shot .22lr
hope to find out more next time my friend is in town.

any ideas on how to restore the color on the stippled grip surface....not a fan of plastic dip for this area....too plasticky

i would imagine that a black dye or stain would probably end up looking too dark...maybe a dark walnut perhaps?

[Scota4570]

OP asked about filling the grain. If you don't want to use the sanding slurry method then a paste wood filler is a way. Get a color that is darker than the wood. Here is an example:
http://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/do...od-filler.html
I am not vouching for this particular one.

Beware the silica in these paste fillers dulls checkering tools.

[kcstott]

I know a high end commissioned rifle builder. He has used Daly's products for a few decades. Primarily Ship N Shore sealer and Teak oil finish.
The ship and shore seal is used to fill the grain in a sanding slurry, then Teak oil finish usually dyed with alkanet root to bring out the red in the woods he uses.
100% filled stock is a lot of work

[mtenenhaus]

kc.....we've got some teak oil from the deck....might try a little test area, really curious

[kcstott]

Originally Posted by mtenenhaus

kc.....we've got some teak oil from the deck....might try a little test area, really curious

Teak oil is not great at filling pores. It will work but the dry time will be longer. Not as long as linseed though.
Rule #1 is let the wood soak up as much finish as it can in a 30 minute soak.
Rule #2 is never let the wood sit to dry with finish on the surface.
And this is all wet sanded in too.

[mtenenhaus]

thank you, that helps

[kcstott]

Originally Posted by mtenenhaus

thank you, that helps

I was looking for Duane Webie's instructions on how he gets his finish on his $30k rifles.
Basically it's sand the stock till you get a 400 grit finish on it raising the grain with water or alcohol as you go. Then start wet sanding in the sealer. He even goes so far as to sand across the grain to fill the pores as fast as possible. After about half a dozen coats with 400 to 600 grit and dry time in between, the stock is ready for teak oil, same thing 600 grit wet sand let the oil soak in until it can't take any more then wipe off the excess, thinner coats with nothing left on the surface cure faster usually over night depending on temp and humidity. Keep going until you get a to a 1200 grit finish. At that point you can stop or you can then begin polishing the finish after it's cured for about a week. Polish with Rotten stone then with a light wax. Buff with unwoven cotton makeup pads. You can also use 4F pumice before the rotten stone. This technique is for Guild quality stocks or London Best in the UK.
The wood should look as smooth as glass with no visible build up and the pores should be 100% filled, polish until the level of shine desired is reached. A mirror shine is achievable.
It's the same technique for lower grade finish too. You just stop sooner.
A guild quality finish should take about three months including dry times. This is one to two applications and sanding per day if the finish allows.
And more basic finish will take only slightly less time. Polishing in the end is the real work. Keep in mind my time line is working on the stock every day.

[mtenenhaus]

kc, you're awesome...thanks for taking the time to pen this