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Centerfire Rifles - Manually Operated Lever action, bolt action or other non gas operated centerfire rifles.

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  #1  
Old 06-09-2021, 12:19 PM
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Default Best bedding compound?

I've decided to try my hand at bedding a stock for the first time, and after watching several youtube how-to demonstrations it's pretty obvious that there's no general consensus on which brand is best.

AcraGlass

Devcon

Marine Tex

There are others I'm sure, but the above three seem to be the most popular. I'm leaning towards Marine Tex, but it was a coin toss type decision. Go, or no?

Also.... would the 2oz kit be enough for one rifle? I'm doing a Rem SA 700 BDL with a HS stock with aluminum bedding block, but I plan on grinding away maybe 1/8" or more of the aluminum as well as relieving the stock to allow for a thicker bed job.

Advice is appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 06-09-2021, 12:56 PM
Usmc0844spare Usmc0844spare is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertrider View Post
I've decided to try my hand at bedding a stock for the first time, and after watching several youtube how-to demonstrations it's pretty obvious that there's no general consensus on which brand is best.

AcraGlass

Devcon

Marine Tex

There are others I'm sure, but the above three seem to be the most popular. I'm leaning towards Marine Tex, but it was a coin toss type decision. Go, or no?

Also.... would the 2oz kit be enough for one rifle? I'm doing a Rem SA 700 BDL with a HS stock with aluminum bedding block, but I plan on grinding away maybe 1/8" or more of the aluminum as well as relieving the stock to allow for a thicker bed job.

Advice is appreciated.
Don't forget JB Weld. Probably cheaper than most of the others you listed for same result.

Neutral shoe polish also works just fine for a release agent.

Not sure you need to relieve anything, I've got some pretty thin spots that are lasting just fine. Unless you are talking paper thin, there is not a significant difference between thick and thin as long as the epoxy has a decent surface to mechanically latch onto.

Just be careful about mechanical locks where the bedding gets into some nook or cranny. Plumber's putty works fine, comes off easily with mineral spirits, even the neutered stuff available here in CA. Modeling clay not so much.

Mask off areas of the stock you don't want to get epoxy stuck to. Feel free to overdo this part as I guarantee that one spot you didn't think would be a problem will be THE spot that a lot more excess epoxy squeezes out of and dribbles down the stock when you leave the project to go watch gun jesus for a couple hours.
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Old 06-09-2021, 2:06 PM
polygunner polygunner is online now
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I use marine tex grey, modeling clay, and Ram composite products mold release 225.
Works great on the M-14's I've bedded. They're a bit different than your typical bolt action.

I found JB weld to be too runny.

PG
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  #4  
Old 06-09-2021, 2:15 PM
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i use Devcon.

Take your time. I use blue painters tape.
Mold release is just.as.important as the bedding compound.
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  #5  
Old 06-09-2021, 3:38 PM
LynnJr LynnJr is offline
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I use whatever I can find usually JB Weld or Marine Tex and any color kiwi shoe wax.
I tape it all off and use model clay because that is what I have and it was cheap.
I don't have any of the fancy T type handles so I just used all thread and some rubber fishing tubing.
You also won't be able to remove much of that aluminum bedding block at home unless you have a mill. A common die grinder or Dremel Tool will just scratch the surface but that's okay.
I use vinegar and plenty of paper towels to remove the excess epoxy and it works very well.

You asked for advice as well so do this and tell us what you find out.
On an empty chamber close the bolt handle on a very skinny piece of newspaper and using finger pressure will it slide out without tearing.
Repeat after dry firing will it slide out?
The HS Precision stocks tend to rub on the bolt handle and that will hurt your accuracy more than the bedding but I bed them anyways.
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Last edited by LynnJr; 06-09-2021 at 5:20 PM..
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  #6  
Old 06-09-2021, 4:22 PM
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Ive used devcon and jb weld many times. Prep and a good release agent will be the keys to a good job.
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  #7  
Old 06-09-2021, 7:23 PM
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Lynn,

What side of the bolt handle do you see the problem? Or are you 'wrapping the paper around the handle so front, bottom, rear all have newspaper? I dont have an HS, but curious and want to check some stocks...
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Old 06-09-2021, 7:35 PM
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I've used Acra Glass and Devcon, Devcon has a better consistency and is less messy as it usually stays where I put it and is not as "sticky".
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  #9  
Old 06-09-2021, 8:46 PM
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I've had great results using PC 7. It is available at Ace Hardware, is thick, cures slowly, doesn't shrink, and is pretty inexpensive to buy.

https://www.amazon.com/PC-Products-1...12616373&psc=1

Regular old car wax ( I use carnuba) works great as a release agent, too.
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  #10  
Old 06-10-2021, 7:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Usmc0844spare View Post
Don't forget JB Weld. Probably cheaper than most of the others you listed for same result.

Neutral shoe polish also works just fine for a release agent.

Not sure you need to relieve anything, I've got some pretty thin spots that are lasting just fine. Unless you are talking paper thin, there is not a significant difference between thick and thin as long as the epoxy has a decent surface to mechanically latch onto.

Just be careful about mechanical locks where the bedding gets into some nook or cranny. Plumber's putty works fine, comes off easily with mineral spirits, even the neutered stuff available here in CA. Modeling clay not so much.

Mask off areas of the stock you don't want to get epoxy stuck to. Feel free to overdo this part as I guarantee that one spot you didn't think would be a problem will be THE spot that a lot more excess epoxy squeezes out of and dribbles down the stock when you leave the project to go watch gun jesus for a couple hours.
I definitely plan on putting time and attention into prep. Release agent and taping all areas that will be affected by "squeeze out".


Quote:
Originally Posted by LynnJr View Post
I use whatever I can find usually JB Weld or Marine Tex and any color kiwi shoe wax.
I tape it all off and use model clay because that is what I have and it was cheap.
I don't have any of the fancy T type handles so I just used all thread and some rubber fishing tubing.
You also won't be able to remove much of that aluminum bedding block at home unless you have a mill. A common die grinder or Dremel Tool will just scratch the surface but that's okay.
I use vinegar and plenty of paper towels to remove the excess epoxy and it works very well.

You asked for advice as well so do this and tell us what you find out.
On an empty chamber close the bolt handle on a very skinny piece of newspaper and using finger pressure will it slide out without tearing.
Repeat after dry firing will it slide out?
The HS Precision stocks tend to rub on the bolt handle and that will hurt your accuracy more than the bedding but I bed them anyways.
I don't have a mill, but I've used my angled air grinder with tungsten carbide ball cutters for porting cylinder heads. I'll go slow and take my time.

I'll check the bolt handle clearance against the stock. Thanks for the heads up.


Quote:
Originally Posted by maxx03 View Post
I've used Acra Glass and Devcon, Devcon has a better consistency and is less messy as it usually stays where I put it and is not as "sticky".
Since three posters replied that they use Devcon I'll give it a shot. Your input about Devcon "staying put" and not being overly "sticky" sounds like it'll be more manageable to work with.

Thanks for all the info and advice!
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  #11  
Old 06-10-2021, 7:35 PM
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+1 for PC7 just because I have lots of it.

Beeswax (have lots, also) and made real thin by hitting it with a hair dryer after fingertip application.

PC7 can take a while to cure so it's plenty easy to clean up over squeeze before it cures.
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  #12  
Old 06-10-2021, 8:25 PM
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Ive used Marinetex and Devcon, prefer the devcon. Use Kiwi neutral shoe polish as a release.
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  #13  
Old 06-10-2021, 8:50 PM
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Winchester model 70, pillar bedded with PC 7:

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  #14  
Old 06-10-2021, 9:04 PM
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RELEASE AGENT

I've never used anything other than Johnsons Paste Furniture Wax. Same can since 1971. Wife quit looking for it after a couple years.

Filling holes is a BIG USELESS WASTE OF TIME. And a Pain in the POOPER to dig all that putty, goop, Play-Doh, or clay out of the holes afterward.

Refer to this thread from last year. For the fastest, easiest, most efficient way to prep for bedding. That I've found over the last 40+ yrs and dozens of bedding jobs. https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/...highlight=foil

Using this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Aluminium...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

Which is also the same roll a friend gave me back in the early 1980s.
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  #15  
Old 06-10-2021, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yacko View Post
What side of the bolt handle do you see the problem?
Or are you 'wrapping the paper around the handle so front, bottom, rear all have newspaper?
I dont have an HS, but curious and want to check some stocks...
Front back or bottom.
None of those should touch.
The bolt handle should stop against the reciever, NOT the stock.

It would be pretty hard for the outside surface to touch any part of the stock!
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Old 06-11-2021, 6:43 AM
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Yacko
The strips need to be very thin and they tend to hit about midway down the bolt handle mortise. First thing to look for on any H-S stocked rifle that throws a flier.

OP
I use a die grinder with carbide burrs at 30,000 rpm as well and aluminum just seems like a pain to remove material from. It clogs those $30 bits up very quickly so keep some steel handy to clean the burr.
When you put a max heavy varmint or #17 barrel into one of those stocks and free float the barrel you run into the barrel block again way down the forend. The fill material and the stock both sand easily it's the block itself that takes a little time.
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Old 06-11-2021, 6:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LynnJr View Post
I use a die grinder with carbide burrs at 30,000 rpm as well and aluminum just seems like a pain to remove material from.
It clogs those $30 bits up very quickly so keep some steel handy to clean the burr.
Try a rotary file instead of a burr.
The rotary files I have will remove a scary amount of aluminum faster than you would imagine without clogging.
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  #18  
Old 06-11-2021, 7:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
Try a rotary file instead of a burr.
The rotary files I have will remove a scary amount of aluminum faster than you would imagine without clogging.
Note taken, thanks for the advice!
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Old 06-18-2021, 8:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertrider View Post
I've decided to try my hand at bedding a stock for the first time, and after watching several youtube how-to demonstrations it's pretty obvious that there's no general consensus on which brand is best.

AcraGlass

Devcon

Marine Tex

There are others I'm sure, but the above three seem to be the most popular. I'm leaning towards Marine Tex, but it was a coin toss type decision. Go, or no?

Also.... would the 2oz kit be enough for one rifle? I'm doing a Rem SA 700 BDL with a HS stock with aluminum bedding block, but I plan on grinding away maybe 1/8" or more of the aluminum as well as relieving the stock to allow for a thicker bed job.

Advice is appreciated.
If you've never done this before use whats easiest to work with. Don't skimp on release agent. After you apply what you think is enough, do it again. Clean the huge globs right away, the little stuff isnt that difficult to remove and can wait until its done.

I think you should decide what type of bedding job you want first. Free floated, pillar, or pressure bedding. Regardless of the type of bedding you want, the recoil lug needs to be bedded so there is full contact on the rear and side of lugs with a gap on the bottom and front of the lug. Bedding pillars into a stock does not make your gun pillar bedded unless the action is only touching the pillars. The correct way to pillar bed the action to the stock is to use bedding material to make pillars.

I personally like AcraGlas but thats just me. I know exactly how long I have to work with it, how much it will shrink, and how to use it for various techniques.

I would recommend the acraglass kit for your first time so that you have enough material to work with. It sucks your first time when you apply the bedding material unevenly and you end up with voids and air bubbles.

I know your stock has a bedding block in it, but consider getting a stock without one for bedding. It is best to apply the bedding material straight to the stock because the bedding block can still move within the stock, this is especially true if the only place the bedding compound is touching is the bedding block.

Good luck, hopefully it'll work out well for you.
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Old 06-18-2021, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fish45 View Post
If you've never done this before use whats easiest to work with. Don't skimp on release agent. After you apply what you think is enough, do it again. Clean the huge globs right away, the little stuff isnt that difficult to remove and can wait until its done.

I think you should decide what type of bedding job you want first. Free floated, pillar, or pressure bedding. Regardless of the type of bedding you want, the recoil lug needs to be bedded so there is full contact on the rear and side of lugs with a gap on the bottom and front of the lug. Bedding pillars into a stock does not make your gun pillar bedded unless the action is only touching the pillars. The correct way to pillar bed the action to the stock is to use bedding material to make pillars
.
The sides? I never heard of the sides.... only the rear, and everything else has a gap.
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Old 06-18-2021, 5:11 PM
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ALSO;

I have used and did not care for "ACRA-GLASS" original. Very runny and sloppy.

The Acra-Glass GEL is a very good product.
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Old 06-18-2021, 7:28 PM
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Johnson's Paste Wax is a great release agent. No need to apply thick, complete coverage is the trick. Let the wax dry. On the barrel some clear Gorilla tape works wonders, it's thicker than other clear tapes but thinner than duct tape.

Bedding agent? They all seem to have worked well some just need different attention.

Some of the sloppiest looking bedding projects when I first started actually shot as good any the pretty ones. Don't fuss over it too much.
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  #23  
Old 06-18-2021, 7:40 PM
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Release agent ... I used spray silicone stuff I normally use on vehicle door seals to prevent freezing during winter.

Easy to get full coverage but also easy to get everywhere and not so easy to clean up.
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Old 06-19-2021, 6:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yacko View Post
The sides? I never heard of the sides.... only the rear, and everything else has a gap.
Guessing you get most of your info from the internet then... There are actions that require full contact on the bottom of the recoil lug. If you don't want it on the sides then tape it off, its just a difference of technique.
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Old 06-19-2021, 2:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacrat View Post
ALSO;

I have used and did not care for "ACRA-GLASS" original. Very runny and sloppy.

The Acra-Glass GEL is a very good product.
+1

The original AcraGlas was designed for repairing cracked stocks and is very runny so it will flow into cracks. It's not really usable for bedding unless you add a filler.

AcraGlas GEL is designed for bedding. It's the consistency of warm peanut butter before it sets. It has a long work time, can be dyed black or brown and is easy to work with. It's the way to go.


A can of Johnsons Paste Wax will last you a lifetime. Kiwi Neutral shoe polish works well also and is cheaper.

Last edited by natman; 06-19-2021 at 2:22 PM..
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  #26  
Old 06-19-2021, 9:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yacko View Post
The sides? I never heard of the sides.... only the rear, and everything else has a gap.
I agree.
The sides, front and bottom get gapped using extra thick electrical tape.
The rear gets full contact.
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