Marlin 795 MEGATHREAD Part Deuce

[Chaos47]

Interesting, keeping with my previous guesses I am going to say it is either:

"It could just be a different variation made for outside the USA.
It could be a variation made for a certain Distributor."

No matter what it should be a fine gun! Enjoy!

[psygho]

Well If a may believe the serial number sequences,and the numer of digit it contains normaly, im getting the 00 and thats tell me its an 2000 or 2010 Rifle. Wel a bit old and odd...

Because, when i find the bolt handles, one shop may refer like this:

At last, an aftermarket charging handle option for the M60, M70, M795 and other semi-auto Marlin rimfire models.
All the main parts are CNC'd. Several different designs and colors to choose from.
Improved grip area and appearance with easy drop-in Installation.
Fits Marlin bolts with .375 wide charging handle shank MANUFACTURED AFTER January 2007.
(Will still fit in the earlier models, however there will be about a .025" excessive clearance front to rear that would need to
be shimmed, or otherwise accomodated).

That tells me that there are some changing in the specs. Could it be that Remmington made these rifles since 2007 ???
Or the "normal charge-ing handle" was introduced, at 2007, and maybe prior 2007, they had the ones who i have ??

Just speculating...

[Chaos47]

That would make sense wouldn't it but no unfortunately that is not how it works Remington started making them in 2011.

It is possible that in 2007 they changed from the hook to the peg style handle like you suggest though. (I am not sure)

I do not know why Marlin changed the shank and corresponding bolt groove. I have ordered 2 of those handles one pre and one post 2007. Both for rifles made in 2011 (one style of handle was only available in the pre size)

Both handles had to be sanded down to fit my bolts. The pre one taking considerably more work but totally do able.

[psygho]

Wl i get the papers on nex tue. and get the rifle on next Thu.
Wil post som pics fri, or sat.

Kind regards..

[Rimfire123]

Hi, I found the following in 795 manual, does it mean you never have to clean the bore?
BTW, I mostly use walmart's cheap Federal ammo.
please advice.

Cleaning the bore
Since modern ammunition burns very
cleanly, with normal use it is not necessary
to clean the bore of your rifle. However, if it
gets wet, or if any foreign material gets
into the action or barrel, cleaning as
described below is recommended.


thanks

[DasBoost]

Originally Posted by Rimfire123

Hi, I found the following in 795 manual, does it mean you never have to clean the bore?
BTW, I mostly use walmart's cheap Federal ammo.
please advice.

Cleaning the bore
Since modern ammunition burns very
cleanly, with normal use it is not necessary
to clean the bore of your rifle. However, if it
gets wet, or if any foreign material gets
into the action or barrel, cleaning as
described below is recommended.


thanks

Honestly, I'd run a boresnake/patch through it for the peace of mind. That's just me though. As for my 795, she has been sitting locked up since I first shot it with the new sights (OEM Marlin adjustable sights) and really didn't have to change them. Work has really killed my chances at getting to the range; graveyard shifts and sleeping during normal business hours doesn't mix.

[Chaos47]

I agree, I boresnake mine.

[DasBoost]

Originally Posted by Chaos47

I agree, I boresnake mine.

Boresnake and just inspect the chamber for any buildup or anything and then just clean and lube the bolt. I was surprised that Marlin wrote that with .22 being as dirty and fouling as it is; granted, I've gone through about 150 rounds in an outing and had no issues, but I can't imagine just being able to just lube it and run it over and over like an AR or Mini and expect stellar results.

[Chaos47]

I do a field strip (fully dissembled except action in one peice) cleaning after every outing. Including 2 or 3 boresnake passes. But I am just anal like that when it comes to firearms. I'm sure it would be fine without it after every other trip.

I shoot upwards of 500 rounds an outing and have never had an issue. I do not over lube them and I think that is the key!

[CharlesV]

I dont know what ammo Marlin is talking about since i find plenty of crud after every session, no matter what the ammo. Im going to ignore the manual and stick to traditional cleanings because i can see it needs it.

[ogarcia_02]

I just got a 40" soft case for my Marlin, I have about an inch or two left. I'm thinking of getting a boyd thumbhole stock but I'm not sure if it will fit in the case. Does anyone know how much longer the boyd stock is?

[psygho]

Update of mine "mysterious marlin 795"
Ik picked up mine little beauty today.. Got an chance to see the other serial number of the other marlin 795.. These began wit 8x or 9x sequence. Both had an total of 8 numbers, mine to.

First disassemble the whole gun, not very much work if you are familiar with m16, m4, m1 garand, and some ar15's clean everything,Gun was greased or anti seisured, or just verry old oil. Could not tell what is was. It was not cosmoline Annyway carefully put some fp-10 oil in it..



So that said. Wen to the range tonight.
Had 100 schots: 2 FTE or FTL (could not see what is ecactly was) and 1 stove pipe. Total of "3 problems" Not bad for something new, it has to break in, and was all in het first 35 schots. (maybe i went an little to positive with the oil )

Strange thing, when i pushed the mag relaease the mag droped out! And when in lock after final shot, i can reloud it old fashion way! Pull te bolt backwards, and let it fly! Both "the close bolt lever" and the old fasioned way works! NICE!

During dissasembly you could defenitly tel that the gun was new. Absolute no marks!

Maybee i have an early made marlin 795. All numbers are stamped in the barrel. So its def. not an old 60 or something else..

I find it hard to beleve that the shop has one laying around. It lays dows with the rest of stock, so no or verry little chance of an "forgotten gun" here... Maybee as remarked, and "special make"for an certain distributor ? Dont now,,,

Its an nice, and very lightweight rifle, but FUN!...
Other guns I own: Mosin nagant m59 carabine (7.62x54R) , a ruger gp100 4" (357magnum) an CZ shadow sp01 (9mil)
Wil hopefully post pics tomorrow...

[Grey1one]

congrats

[Chaos47]

Congrats! Glad it all worked out!

[melnic]

In Dude's tuning video he mentions to spray "Bright Clean" on the bolt after wet sanding it. Where can I find "bright clean" or is there a substitute for it (Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes, Auto parts store)?

Is Carb Cleaner ok for the bolt?

[Chaos47]

Hmm haven't watched the videos in a long time. I don't know exactly what "Bright Clean" is. I have used a product called Nevr-Dull on parts after I polish them. It can be found at Walmart in a little cylindrical can near the automotive area. Not sure if it does exactly the same thing as to what DUDE is talking about.



Not sure if you could use Carb Cleaner, I don't know how it will react to the metals for sure. If I remember correct the receiver is aluminum. It would suck if the Carb Cleaner etched it. Probably better to use CLP Brake Free or something like that. If you need to degrease then mineral spirits or simple green.

[rkt88edmo]

Simple green eats aluminum. Dish soap works great. Carb cleaner wont attack metals, just certain paints and finishes

[CharlesV]

There is something else, too. I went to buy "parts dip" at Autozone to soak a carburetor only to be told CA doesnt approve this anymore. They had a choice of Simple Green or Purple Power ($6.99 gal). I didnt want either but took Purple Power and dipped the carb as i would with the usual chemicals. I have to say i was amazed at the cleaning power. Instead of taking 6-12 hours, it took 48 hours in the tub but the carb was cleaner than brand new with no harmful effect whatsoever on any metal, plastic or rubber part. No discoloration. And its biodegradable. And its cheap. I would definitely not be afraid to dip an entire receiver or any gun part with this stuff in the future.

Nevr-Dull is excellent for polishing smooth parts that are already basically clean. It works wonders on chromed surfaces, clearing out light rust, discolorations and oil, and making the surfaces very smooth, similar to wax. I personally wouldnt use it on rough or porous surfaces because the wadding will tangle and get stuck on the surface, like rubbing a cashmere sweater against rough sandpaper.

Does Simple Green really eat aluminum? Hmm. Two weeks ago I was in a friends auto repair shop. He had purchased 20 gallons of Simple Green and dipped an entire automatic transmission and said the cleaning and rebuild went great and we were all laughing. Isnt a transmission more or less entirely aluminum?

[machupichu]

Am I missing something? The swivel stud mount kit doesn't seem to work since its recessed in the stock. Are there any workarounds or other swivel that will work?

I have the UG TL-BP69ST. Thanks.

[ogarcia_02]

Took out my 795 out to the range today. Ran about 150 rounds of federal bulk before I had to head back to get ready for work. No failures at all and it was pretty fun since it was my first time shooting any type of rifle.

50 rounds at 30 feet


I did some at 45 feet and 75 but am too embarrassed at the results to post them . When shooting a rifle what exactly are you supposed to be focusing on? My eyes kept switching from the rear sight to the front and to the target.

[erichuff7]

You want to focus on the front sight

[Chaos47]

Originally Posted by machupichu

Am I missing something? The swivel stud mount kit doesn't seem to work since its recessed in the stock. Are there any workarounds or other swivel that will work?

I have the UG TL-BP69ST. Thanks.

Woaha! Thats a 795?
Guess they have started to use molded in swivels like they did to the XT line. That is unfortunate! The older stocks had a real metal sling stud that you could mount up to with ease.

Sucks to say it but it looks as if you will have to drill out that area and put a real stud that is held in by a nut on the inside. (if there is room on the inside)



I will change the guide to reflect this new change!




About Simple Green and aluminum. I have never heard of this. In printmaking class in college we used it to stop etching chemicals now granted those plates where most of the time zinc. Google does turn up many forums talking about this subject. But it also turns up this: http://www.simplegreen.com/solutions...query=aluminum

...have been used on aircraft, automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years. However, caution and common sense must be used: aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times for unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes.

I have never used simple green on a firearm I was just suggesting a degreaser that I thought was relatively weak. I always use mineral spirits to degrease but I have never needed to use it on a 795..

[CharlesV]

More on Simple Green from its web site following the paragraph above:

"Simple Green has also developed break-through water based cleaners that are safe for use on metals, plastics, rubber and high tech alloys. Extreme Simple Green® Aircraft & Precision Cleaner and Simple Green® Pro HD are available on both the industrial and retail markets, respectively. These products were initially developed for the aircraft industry and extensive testing shows that they are safe and effective on a variety of metals and other sensitive surfaces even in the most extreme circumstances. "

When aluminum degrades there is discoloration, chalking, even pitting. Those are conditions i have sometimes found aluminum to be in when i came upon it, not because of any cleaner i used.

On Purple Power website i didnt find any metal exclusions
http://www.clean-rite.com/purplepowe...degreaser.html

...and found a product they have specifically for aluminum
http://www.clean-rite.com/purplepowe...rightener.html

[CharlesV]

Regarding stud mounts for 795, i dont know what i have since its not in my possession right now but if I see that lousy moulded-in mount i'll think about changing stocks.

Speaking of stocks, are there any hardwood stocks available for these guns? Are the laminates plastic, for example Boyds? Does anyone have concerns about laminates coming apart? Outside of the new 60 i have no experience with laminates.

[mannyo747]

Alright guys got some questions about the mags on my 795. The rifle itself shoots great and is super accurate. Now the magazine that came with the rifle is very tight in the mag well. I got to give it a good tug to get it out. Is there anything i can do to make that a little easier to get out?
I also bought two more factory mags that go in and out smooth but one of them with the last shot the bolt doesn't stay open. I'm guessing its the mag, if so is there anything i can do to fix that.

[Chaos47]

Originally Posted by CharlesV

Regarding stud mounts for 795, i dont know what i have since its not in my possession right now but if I see that lousy moulded-in mount i'll think about changing stocks.

Speaking of stocks, are there any hardwood stocks available for these guns? Are the laminates plastic, for example Boyds? Does anyone have concerns about laminates coming apart? Outside of the new 60 i have no experience with laminates.

Boyds stocks are laminated wood. They are not plastic.

Laminate refers to the process of bonding multiple thin layers of wood together with alternating wood grain directions. Think of the stocks on an AK47 for example. They are extremely tough (stronger then non laminated wood) and are less subject to swelling then regular wood.

No they won't come apart.

IMO laminate stocks are better then a regular "solid" wood stock

Boyds stocks are amazing quality at a great price

Originally Posted by mannyo747

Alright guys got some questions about the mags on my 795. The rifle itself shoots great and is super accurate. Now the magazine that came with the rifle is very tight in the mag well. I got to give it a good tug to get it out. Is there anything i can do to make that a little easier to get out?
I also bought two more factory mags that go in and out smooth but one of them with the last shot the bolt doesn't stay open. I'm guessing its the mag, if so is there anything i can do to fix that.

The mags being tight in the well is just how 795 are.

You could SLIGHTLY bend the magazine release back a TINY bit. WARNING do this at your own risk. I know a member here that had to order a replacement because he bent his too far and it caused his rifle to malfunction.

You could also polish the inside of the magazine well a little bit. Again at your own risk!

If your magazine is really hard to get out it may be out of spec. Earlier this year I purchased 2 more magazines that both ended up being out of spec. The spine on the back was poorly tac welded on and bent outward at the top. The folded back edges where not pressed all the way together when the spin was put on either. That caused two problems 1 its now over sized 2 the weld spilled into the inside of the magazine causing bumps. These bumps would sometimes cause the follower to bind. At least another member on this site had the same issues as my magazines

Not saying that is the problem with yours but worth a look.
Its probably just that your rifle and magazines are new.

Shoot em a bunch and I bet the magazines will become easier to remove without doing any thing to them or the rifle.

[psygho]

Upddate of mine "mysterious" marlin 795

Sorry for the late pics..

But here we go:

Bolt handle:



Underside of bolt handle:


Factory installed adjustable rear sights



Serial (coverd the last 2 digits)



Front sight with white corn:



Barrel with marked model 795 number:



2 pics, with mounted scope, and one with empty magazine

[Chaos47]

Looks really nice!

It's marked North Haven, CT so it is pre Remington buyout for sure.
You know maybe I was wrong about the serial number now that I think about it. If you don't ignore the leading 00 then 100-00 could equal a manufacture date of 2000..

[slicknickns]

Originally Posted by Chaos47

Looks really nice!

It's marked North Haven, CT so it is pre Remington buyout for sure.
You know maybe I was wrong about the serial number now that I think about it. If you don't ignore the leading 00 then 100-00 could equal a manufacture date of 2000..

Mayfield, Kentucky; so I bought a Remlin?

[DasBoost]

Originally Posted by Chaos47

Looks really nice!

It's marked North Haven, CT so it is pre Remington buyout for sure.
You know maybe I was wrong about the serial number now that I think about it. If you don't ignore the leading 00 then 100-00 could equal a manufacture date of 2000..

Originally Posted by slicknickns

Mayfield, Kentucky; so I bought a Remlin?

I'm going to have to check mine. I could have sworn I had a Remlin (especially being purchased less than a year ago) but I thought I saw North Haven on the markings...

[psygho]

Originally Posted by Chaos47

Looks really nice!

It's marked North Haven, CT so it is pre Remington buyout for sure.
You know maybe I was wrong about the serial number now that I think about it. If you don't ignore the leading 00 then 100-00 could equal a manufacture date of 2000..

Yep, mine guess exactly, but stil is on ald gun
But im glad is not an remmlin But an genuine Marlin...
Schoots razor sharp. Had her yesterday for the second time out in the range, and schot 100 through it.

I most be to much with the oil.. After the first magazine, the bolt was closed. Te next mags it was open, like it should en alway stay-ed open.. Had none problems. No fte no ftf or stovepipes.

[Chaos47]

Originally Posted by slicknickns

Mayfield, Kentucky; so I bought a Remlin?

Yup. But no fear I have 2 Remlins and they are perfect.

Originally Posted by DasBoost

I'm going to have to check mine. I could have sworn I had a Remlin (especially being purchased less than a year ago) but I thought I saw North Haven on the markings...

I think there may be some Remington made ones with CT marked barrels as they used the last of the old stock. I remeber reading that around the change over. Who knows if it is true. Does your serial number start with letters or numbers? If MM its Remington.

Originally Posted by psygho

Yep, mine guess exactly, but stil is on ald gun
But im glad is not an remmlin But an genuine Marlin...
Schoots razor sharp. Had her yesterday for the second time out in the range, and schot 100 through it.

I most be to much with the oil.. After the first magazine, the bolt was closed. Te next mags it was open, like it should en alway stay-ed open.. Had none problems. No fte no ftf or stovepipes.

Yea probably too much oil.
Glad its working good other then that though!

[DasBoost]

Originally Posted by Chaos47

Yup. But no fear I have 2 Remlins and they are perfect.



I think there may be some Remington made ones with CT marked barrels as they used the last of the old stock. I remeber reading that around the change over. Who knows if it is true. Does your serial number start with letters or numbers? If MM its Remington.



Yea probably too much oil.
Glad its working good other then that though!

It's MM. Oh well, it works great.

[Chaos47]

I have 2 "older" style synthetic 795 stocks for sale.
They have the real metal sling studs not the new plastic molded in ones.

One brand new, take off.

Other one:
Used, Take off.
Barrel Channel carefully sanded to make it free float.
UTG Bipod adapter loctited on front swivel (can easily be removed by nut on inside of barrel channel on the stock and replaced)
Aluminium tape ghetto bedding of action area (can easily be removed)

Either one 35 bucks local pickup in Riverside.

WTS Ad can be found here: http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...02#post9965702

[Chaos47]

I have 2 "older" style synthetic 795 stocks for sale.
They have the real metal sling studs not the new plastic molded in ones.

One brand new, take off.

Other one:
Used, Take off.
Barrel Channel carefully sanded to make it free float.
UTG Bipod adapter loctited on front swivel (can easily be removed by nut on inside of barrel channel on the stock and replaced)
Aluminium tape ghetto bedding of action area (can easily be removed)

Either one 35 bucks local pickup in Riverside.

WTS Ad can be found here: http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s...02#post9965702

[DasBoost]

So I've been browsing ammo and I've had great results with the MiniMags in 36gr HP and 40gr Solid Nose, but am looking into more of bulk ammo options. I've seen that CCI seems to be consistent but was wondering about the Winchester Copper Plated 555 bulk packs; found them around town for under $25 and wondering if it's a decent ammo. Also, wondering about the Winchester M-22 as well. As far as other ammo, Remington's Golden Bullet 22 has been horrible in my experience and really dirty. Wondering what everyone's using in their 795s as I've used MiniMags exclusively up until now and may stay with them if there aren't too many comparable options.

[ogarcia_02]

I've had good results with federal 525 packs. If you have a turners near they have them for $18.

[DasBoost]

Originally Posted by ogarcia_02

I've had good results with federal 525 packs. If you have a turners near they have them for $18.

In northern CA/Bay Area; have Big5 and Wal*Mart and local GSs. I'll look for those and see. Maybe pick up a pack for 'testing & evaluation'.

[DasBoost]

Went to an indoor range with my buddy who's narrowing down choices for his first handgun. Brought the 795 because .45 isn't cheap these days (never was ); shot 254 rounds in under an hour, not 1 FTFire, FTE, FTFeed. Ammo was 40gr MiniMag solid nose and 36gr MiniMag HP. Flawless, except for the adjustable sight needed a bit of tweaking but it's all set. Shooting at 15yds offhand/standing, I put 50rds into the size of a half dollar. Essentially doubled the round count of it in one range trip and remembered how fun of a rifle it is to shoot.

[Grey1one]

Anybody still looking in Norcal, Big 5 has them for $169.00 again.