CalGuns Swiss Rifle Central

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Front sight blades? If your rifle is shooting high right out of the gate, this is the solution.



From left to right is lowest to tallest and the middle one is a standard height.
Heights are 5.9, 6.2, 6.5 (standard), 6.8 and 7.1 mm. Changing out a blade by one step moves the POI at 300 meters by 7" (18cm) for a K11 and 6.3" (16cm) for a K31.

The lower row are the normal 1.8mm wide blades, the other rows are the wider ones as used for the senior shooters and for the ZfK55.

Guisan.

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Sight Pictures, Swiss rifles courtesy of Guisan!

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We manufacture brakes. (Note: We don't selll to the public, only through our distributors)
This is a threaded brake. Note the thickness of the Brake wall.





This is a Clamp On Brake



Installed




This is a Damper for reducing group size.



Installed




This is a flash suppressor. A Brennan Nil-Flash that shows zero signature on an ar15 type.
We did the prototype testing on this brake in Lost Prairie during the early 90's.



They're not a brake, and a flash suppressor (combo) is never an efficient brake.

4 years of field testing our own products before production and distribution has proven this over and over ad nauseum.
The chances of any brake reducing group sizes is low and purely co-incidental, however, we have had a few reports of the threaded brake making a difference. This is an involved subject and I'd post it if requested, otherwise what I've given you is based on a very long history of manufacturing, R&D and field testing on both Brakes and Dampers. Essentially, a true, effective Brake must be thick walled right out of the gate. The rearward angle of the ports must have sufficient surface upon which the gases can act. Without that angle and thickness you'd have no forward push on the rifle. Look closely at your zfk55 or AMT, and you'll understand.

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Stocks, barrels, accuracy and accurizing.

Just so we have some reality into this.......... Dad has always said that there are many k31's that work very well with the preloaded stock, but the stock has to be a stable stock. Sometimes improper storage will cause a stock to apply pressure in the wrong direction, and those rifles are the main reason for our using spacers to accurize our rifles. We never, ever remove wood.

Another way is to change the lug shim, but one again, if the stock puts pressure left or right on the barrel, then that may not help much. When he said that every rifle in the armoury is set up with his accurizing technique, that doesn't mean that yours must be. It's just like reloading. There are many ways to get to a great end result, not just his way. It works for us based on the stock/barrel relationship of our rifles.

Check your forestock. Is the blackened area only straight down on the bottom. or does is show an uneven area of dark wood to the left, right or the upper foregrip? And don't forget that the flanges on the front ring must be tight and solid. The stock should not be flopping around when fired.
Do what works best for you, and it might be that your k31's preloaded stock is perfectly fine.