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  #1  
Old 03-14-2019, 3:01 PM
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Rogerbutthead Rogerbutthead is offline
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Default 1911 slide/frame reassembly question

When trying to reassemble a two part guide rod compensated 1911 standard, I was having trouble with the rear end of the two part guide rod (not screwed together with the front piece yet) - spring pressure was shooting it off numerous times. When I did get it on the frame, for the first few attempts, the slide would not retract past its firing position - thus I could not re-insert the slide stop.

I finally did reassemble it, thinking that the angle of the guide rod rear was somehow blocking the slide from retracting further. I mean I altered the angle a number of times before I succeeded. I am wondering if something else was blocking the slide from moving back so I could reassemble the pistol. (Note: This slide would move forward and off. I just had problems moving it further back than just the firing position)

https://imgur.com/6ihYaaH

Earlier this week, when lubing my Safari 1911, the slide would not retract or go forward either - with the slide stop off - so I got a rubber mallet and gave it a whack from the front - and the slide did finally move - but the extractor (as noted by Old Flash, I meant ejector) came off. I did notice the rear of the extractor was not flush with the slide when the slide was stuck. It protruded a bit. The extractor pin was missing and I do not know if the extractor was loctited in or not.

https://imgur.com/zP3Aw5r
https://imgur.com/y0zw5Af

Each gun had a stuck slide - I am wondering if this problem was related to how I was handling these pistols. Am I doing something wrong?

Any similar experiences out there?

Last edited by Rogerbutthead; 03-15-2019 at 2:40 AM..
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  #2  
Old 03-14-2019, 7:18 PM
Old Flash Old Flash is offline
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I also have 2 piece FLGR on my 1911, to assemble I install the spring and rear piece of guide rod (make sure of correct orientation) into slide and get in onto the frame. I then install the slide stop and retract slide back and lock it open with slide stop. Then screw on the end piece of guide rod. I'd avoid whacking the slide into place, there might just be a part not properly seated.

Regards to your Safari 1911, you're referring to the ejector not extractor. Although it doesn't affect function, you can have back of ejector blended to match frame. If you don't have an ejector pin, it might be glued on or installed with a little interference fit.

Edit: It looks like your Safari is using a standard GI guide rod. You could try leaving the barrel bushing rotated out of the way when assembling the slide, barrel, recoil spring and guide rod to frame. Once assembled, compress recoil spring with the plug and rotate barrel bushing into place.

Last edited by Old Flash; 03-14-2019 at 7:28 PM..
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Old 03-14-2019, 8:14 PM
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Sounds like you're not too familiar with the 1911 platform. I would recommend you find someone who really KNOWS their way around a 1911 to have them show you the various methods to disassemble and reassemble with/without compensator, FLGR. Or do a youtube search. It would a heck of a lot easier than writing it out.
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Old 03-14-2019, 8:18 PM
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What part of the State are you in? If you're on the west side of Los Angeles, I can help you.

I'll check this thread again in the morning.
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Old 03-14-2019, 8:46 PM
walmart_ar15 walmart_ar15 is offline
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With the full length guide rod and reverse plug, u do not need to take apart the guide rod to disassemble. Just remove the slide stop the normal way and u can slide the entire slide assembly off the frame with recoil spring captured like other semi, ie glock. It is the reason I like full length guide rod.

U can also use this type with a small hole in it.

http://https://www.ebay.com/p/25GRFW-Wilson-Combat-Full-length-Guide-Rod-Full-size-Flat-Wire/20022535301?iid=231968019482

Use together with a paper clip to hold the reverse plug in place with the compressed spring. It may or may not work for u depending if the hole will clear the compensator.

Last edited by walmart_ar15; 03-14-2019 at 8:56 PM..
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Old 03-14-2019, 9:31 PM
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The problem with his particular gun, the recoil rod is extended and inside the hole under the comp. His gun has a standard barrel that’s been sleeved via cone. With the extra weight of the comp and sleeve, the front of the barrel is pushed down by the hot gasses creating a seesaw effect. This type of setup sometimes have a problem with the end of the barrel hood hitting the slide lugs when returning into battery. Quick fix is to use the front end of the recoil rod to prevent the seesaw of the barrel during recoil. So changing the recoil rod to a standard 5” full length recoil guiderod might introduce a cycling problem.

I think the OP should leave the mallet out when assembling/disassembling his guns. He definitely needs someone to show him the proper procedures.

OP, where are you located?
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:34 PM
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I am in the Silicon Valley area.

I have watched a number of assembly videos. I never saw any with a slide that would not move further back than in the firing position.

I am guessing the guide rod was not aligned correctly - but due to the shape of the guide rod, I couldn't really understand why it wouldn't go further back if it already reached the firing position.

I did buy these pistols 20-25 years ago - and cleaning a Gold Cup back then convinced me that I should collect Browning HiPowers instead. Only recently have I started to fool around again with the 1911 platform.

I guess I am demonstrating it ain't idiot proof. I will lay off the rubber mallet.

Last edited by Rogerbutthead; 03-14-2019 at 10:44 PM..
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:22 PM
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It did not go further back because the barrel lugs were not fully seated into the slide.

During assembly the lower part of the guide rod has the two little round legs straddling the barrel. It should move/slide up and down the barrel freely if the barrel lugs are seated completely.

Last edited by heidad01; 03-14-2019 at 11:25 PM..
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:23 PM
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Sometimes with the slide stop removed, the barrel link will drop down and block the rearward movement of the slide. It helps to turn the pistol upside down so the barrel link does not drop down in the channel in the frame.

I've seen people insert old golf tees into the slide stop hole to keep the barrel link in the correct position. The golf tee can also be used to nudge the plunger tube spring a little when re-installing the slide stop. This helps to prevent the idiot scratch.

As someone else mentioned, there is usually a small cross hole at the end of the guide rod you can slip a paper clip into to capture the recoil spring. Compress the spring a little and you should see it at the guide rod protrudes from the barrel bushing or reverse plug.

If you capture the spring, it won't be necessary to disassemble the guide rod. This is what I have to do with one-piece full length guide rods. Be careful or you will have things flying all over the place.
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  #10  
Old 03-14-2019, 11:40 PM
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Thinking about the use of the rubber mallet:

I had put the slide back on the frame of the Safari into the firing position when it would not go back any further. It would not go forward either. (the slide stop was still not attached) So after yanking on the slide repeatedly without the slide budging - I gave it a whack with the rubber mallet/hammer - from the front. That made it move and when the slide came off, so did the ejector.

Other than being more careful with the placement of the guide rod, what should I have done in that situation? (for future reference)

Note: I did field strip, clean and lube two Springfield Armory and one Colt Gold Cup pistols without any problems - so not completely moronic.

Thank you all for the help

Last edited by Rogerbutthead; 03-15-2019 at 2:31 AM..
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Old 03-15-2019, 7:01 AM
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So the ejector’s feet snapped off? I shouldn’t even ask, because it’s the only way an ejector will come out while the slide is on the frame. If I were near you I’d be more than happy to meet at a gun range and help you with your 1911s.
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Last edited by JTROKS; 03-15-2019 at 7:04 AM..
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Old 03-15-2019, 8:15 AM
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No, the ejector fell out when I pulled the now moving slide off. Didn't make that clear, sorry, second pic showing the complete ejector is crappy - but my eyesight is crappy.

I am waiting for the ejector pin and a replacement ejector I ordered before I put the Safari back together. I am guessing it was loctited in as I walk around barefoot where I got the slide off and haven't noticed any pin on the floor.

Thank you again for all the help. I will try to make sure that the lugs are engaged before I ever consider resorting to the rubber mallet again.
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Old 03-15-2019, 4:22 PM
hambam105 hambam105 is online now
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A few years back you weren't cool unless you installed some kind on non-standard multifaceted guide rod in your otherwise
serviceable 1911 for reasons unknown or long forgotten.

I suppose when we suffered enough with our 1911 improvement efforts we lowered our personal standards and retrofitted
the pistols back to factory specifications and agonized thru the disappointments that only a reliable 1911 can bring.

Last edited by hambam105; 03-15-2019 at 5:17 PM..
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Old 03-15-2019, 5:12 PM
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OP,

Regarding the ejector flying out. In your picture it doesn't look like the front ejector leg has a notch for the pin. But the picture is blurry so it is hard to tell.
If it doesn't have a notch, you would need to make a notch in the front leg in the exactly correct place to capture the leg of the ejector with the pin. Dawson Precision (I think) sells left hand 1/16th drill bits for that specific purpose - drilling through the ejector retaining pin from the right side of the frame with the ejector in place. That will put a notch in the forward leg and you will be able to install the pin. Left hand drill (because people do ask) because it will have a tendency to pull the ejector leg down rather than push it up on contact and as it drills the front leg.

Maybe contact the manufacturer for repair.

If the ejector was rocking, maybe that is what locked the slide in place.

As for the compensated pistol, I don't see why you couldn't go to 1 piece guide rod and use a paperclip to capture the spring. But for some reason that guide rod head looks weird to me. Maybe I haven't looked at one for a while.
And as for the slide not moving past in battery position, the likely culprit is the barrel link (as mentioned above somewhere) that is turned to the rear as oppose to be positioned toward the muzzle as it is in your picture. Because your were struggling with your guide rod, you may have knocked it over without noticing.
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Old 03-15-2019, 6:39 PM
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I am guessing you are right about the rocking of the ejector locking it up.

The ejector does not seem to have a cut for a pin.

Will wait to see what the replacement pin looks like/how it fits. (also ordered another ejector to see what it looks like)

https://i.imgur.com/vNYVs4h.jpg

The comp gun is put together and seems to work, so I won't be taking it apart at any near date. Maybe you will see the next owner talking about problems with it, but don't think I am going to do anything but the bore brush/patch cleaning in what will be left of my ownership of this pistol.

Thanks for all the help.

Last edited by Rogerbutthead; 03-15-2019 at 7:55 PM..
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Old 03-15-2019, 8:14 PM
walmart_ar15 walmart_ar15 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogerbutthead View Post
I am guessing you are right about the rocking of the ejector locking it up.

The ejector does not seem to have a cut for a pin.

Will wait to see what the replacement pin looks like/how it fits.

https://i.imgur.com/vNYVs4h.jpg

The comp gun is put together and seems to work, so I won't be taking it apart at any near date. Maybe you will see the next owner talking about problems with it, but don't think I am going to do anything but the bore brush/patch cleaning in what will be left of my ownership of this pistol.

Thanks for all the help.
That ejector needs to be drilled for a pin. Typically new ejector will not have the “notch” pre-drilled as it is normally installed by smith for fit. There r ejector with notch pre-drilled, u will need to look for them. RIA is one brand. But down side it may not line up correctly.

If u ever like to venture into disassemble the comp gun, u can try these steps, works for me.
  • Insert the barrel into the slide and have it seated into lock position
    Insert reverse plug into position, make sure it is flush fit to the slide
    Now hold the slide assembly with ur support hand and insert one end of the spring into the reverse plug
    Make sure u have something to catch the recoil plug if u slip, a tower works great, using ur strong hand and insert the inside half of the recoil rod on to the spring.
    Make sure the ears of the rod is facing the barrel, put the barrel end on the counter top, and slowly compressed the spring with the rod while using ur support hands 4 fingers to guide/capture the spring from moving/bulging out.
    Once u have the rod fitted underneath the barrel lug/link, hold the spring rod assembly with the support hand fingers.
    Now thread the long section of the recoil rod from the front through the springs. Allen wrench will help if that is the tool to tighten it.
    Idea is to screw together the recoil rod while u are holding it. Once the rod are thread together, the spring will not go any where.
    Now just slide the upper to ur frame while pushing the spring assembly up against the barrel.
    Wiggle it a bit so the barrel lug will slide into the slot in the frame, line up the link pin hole to the frame and insert slide lock pin.
    All done. Cycle and check for function and tighten down the recoil rod.
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Old 03-16-2019, 7:04 AM
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I did field strip, clean and lube my new Armscorp Citadel M1911-A1 FS. I can see the pin hole in the guide rod in this example. Your help aided me in re-assembling it with minimal problems. I mean at one point, this slide too was refusing to go back further than the firing position, but jiggling it, turning it upside down, etc, it did eventually pull back without the use of my trusty rubber mallet.

Thanks again.

*I did order the Dawson drill bit - thanks

My trusty rubber mallet - decades old - problem solver for those of us who are not mechanically inclined.
https://i.imgur.com/bb0YMSS.jpg

Last edited by Rogerbutthead; 03-16-2019 at 11:59 AM..
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