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  #1  
Old 01-20-2022, 6:52 PM
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Default Need help with a ruger mark 3 target

So I purchased a ruger mark 3 target for a very cheap price only problem is that the owner got a little creative with paint on the body the serial number is on the barrel so does any one know if I can purchase another plastic body I can try to remove paint with acetone or laquer thinner I am just afraid of damaging the body and not being able to get another one

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  #2  
Old 01-20-2022, 7:11 PM
fish45 fish45 is offline
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Plastic, No.

Aluminum, yes. Volquartsen makes frames, but they're 400ish expensive.
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  #3  
Old 01-20-2022, 7:42 PM
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Wow thats double the price of the gun

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  #4  
Old 01-20-2022, 8:08 PM
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That paint looks like it's on there very thick.
There might be some kind of paint remover that's gentle on Plastics but it occurs to me that when people paint plastic, with the special paint for plastic, that the directions often say to scuff up or use sandpaper to make sure that the paint adheres to the plastic.
Or at least that used to be the case.

So even if you get that paint off you might have to then deal with smoothing out all that scuffed up plastic.

At that very low price you paid, maybe if you hate that cherry red, you could just spray another coat of something on top of it?
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Old 01-21-2022, 6:34 PM
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Right before they dropped off the roster they were 429.99 at bass pro. If you got one for 200 bucks thats a steal. They still average 400 in free states.

Theres no shortage of people that will buy it from you for what you paid for it.
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  #6  
Old 01-21-2022, 6:49 PM
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Alumnahyde 2

Spray on
Air cure
Chemical resistant


Disassemble

Sand the color you don't like
Spray the color you do like
Prep is key

3-4 light coats

Let air dry for 14 days

Enjoy
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  #7  
Old 01-21-2022, 6:50 PM
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Stainless or wolf grey would look sweet

Matte black

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-prod1117.aspx
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  #8  
Old 01-21-2022, 6:51 PM
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Durable Epoxy Base Paint Withstands Bore Cleaners & Solvents

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop.

Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.
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Rule 1- ALL GUNS ARE ALWAYS LOADED

Rule 2 -NEVER LET THE MUZZLE COVER ANYTHING YOU ARE NOT PREPARED TO DESTROY (including your hands and legs)

Rule 3 -KEEP YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER UNTIL YOUR SIGHTS ARE ON THE TARGET

Rule 4 -BE SURE OF YOUR TARGET AND WHAT IS BEYOND IT
(thanks to Jeff Cooper)
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  #9  
Old 01-21-2022, 7:08 PM
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Still a pretty nice find with the bull barrel. Are you sure it's plastic?? Mine is metal.
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  #10  
Old 01-21-2022, 7:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 71MUSTY View Post
Still a pretty nice find with the bull barrel. Are you sure it's plastic?? Mine is metal.
It's a 22/45 Mark III bull barrel which have plastic frames.

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyline View Post
so does any one know if I can purchase another plastic body
OP- Personally, I'd probably just spend a little bit of coin and buy a Volquartsen (or other) frame. It will be worth every penny because it will probably turn into one of your favorite pistols!
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  #11  
Old 01-21-2022, 10:40 PM
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I would sand it and spray it. You could also consider milling off those integral grip panels and drill/tap for grip bushings.

I did a mill/paint/grip job to an early 22/45 frame just like yours. You can see it here

https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/....php?t=1051014


I have also seen guys dremel those grips flat with a sanding drum then do the bushing mod. You could also leave yours as-is, since they were not painted you wont have to sand them and knock the diamonds of the checkering off.
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  #12  
Old 01-21-2022, 11:18 PM
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Get it bead blasted.
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  #13  
Old 01-21-2022, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unclerandy View Post
Get it bead blasted.
Yes that would be another good option. Just be sure to mask the checkering on the grips & backstrap, and serrations on the front strap.
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Old 01-23-2022, 3:20 PM
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Thank you all for your great suggestions I have access to a blast cabinet so I was thinking of bead blasting it but I was worried about getting any kind of media in the
Trigger I have read that these guns are a huge pain to work on I picked the gun up for $180 off of a friend who realy didn't care for it any more I shot around 200 rounds threw it and like it a lot that's why I wanted to invest some money into it but the valquersin is a little to much I will keep everyone posted on the end result


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  #15  
Old 01-23-2022, 3:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyline View Post
Thank you all for your great suggestions I have access to a blast cabinet so I was thinking of bead blasting it but I was worried about getting any kind of media in the
Trigger I have read that these guns are a huge pain to work on I picked the gun up for $180 off of a friend who realy didn't care for it any more I shot around 200 rounds threw it and like it a lot that's why I wanted to invest some money into it but the valquersin is a little to much I will keep everyone posted on the end result


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Take the trigger out.
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  #16  
Old 01-23-2022, 3:47 PM
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Tear it down, takes less than five minutes to bare frame.

You may want to find some tight fitting pins to keep from enlarging the holes while media blasting.
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  #17  
Old 01-23-2022, 9:34 PM
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I'd look into soda blasting. If you strip the frame down, since it's unserialized, you can bring it into any stripping company to do it. Soda blasting uses baking soda, so it's very gentle on the plastic below the paint.
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  #18  
Old 01-23-2022, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyline View Post
I have access to a blast cabinet so I was thinking of bead blasting it but I was worried about getting any kind of media in the Trigger
Don't blast with ANY moving parts still in the frame.
Detail strip the frame of EVERY moving part before blasting.
You will need to get all the blast media out of it before you reassemble too.
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  #19  
Old 01-23-2022, 10:59 PM
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Vapor blasting might be better than bead in this case.
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  #20  
Old 01-23-2022, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Batman View Post
I'd look into soda blasting. If you strip the frame down, since it's unserialized, you can bring it into any stripping company to do it. Soda blasting uses baking soda, so it's very gentle on the plastic below the paint.
I would probably use my hydro hone blast cabinet.

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  #21  
Old 01-24-2022, 6:30 PM
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Don't be afraid to strip the frame bare, it is easy to reassemble.
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  #22  
Old 01-24-2022, 7:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyHawk View Post
Don't be afraid to strip the frame bare, it is easy to reassemble.

Sarcasm font? I took mine apart three years ago itís still in pieces!


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  #23  
Old 01-24-2022, 8:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugsy714 View Post
Sarcasm font?
I took mine apart three years ago it’s still in pieces!
Some people are much more mechanically inclined than others.
I have no problem detail stripping and reassembling a Ruger 22/45 or MK series frame.
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