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Ammo and Reloading Factory Ammunition, Reloading, Components, Load Data and more. |
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#1
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Okay, I gotta ask
Anybody ever heard of a round going off with an inertial puller ?
It HAS to be an impossibility, or they wouldn't sell them. (That doesn't stop me from flinching just a little bit... ) . |
#2
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Nope, I've never heard of that happening. You've got to strike the primer for the round to go off.
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#3
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Never heard of it happening but it certainly crossed my mind when using it. I used mine for the occasional round over the years but then I got a batch (100 or so) of 9mm I had to dissemble. I picked up an RCBS bullet puller and haven’t looked back! Well worth the investment.
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#5
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Ok never mind. I suppose someone could hit a rock in the back yard primer side down, instead of tip of hammer side down, and blow the thing up.
Don't do that, and I don't see how it could even happen. |
#6
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Man, I was bangin' that hammer like an ape on meth to get a couple of the rounds apart. No problems. Have at it. |
#7
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I got a "grip and pull" puller and it just doesn't work well with pistol rounds. Esp, 45ACP. It just can't grip well.
So, yeah, paying my dues for making ammo too fast and while I was stupider. That's okay, I have time, lol. I had some really weak rounds and some hot ones, made.me realize, just redo them. |
#9
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Even if you managed to strike the primer and set the round off, remember it's not in a sealed tube so the worst thing that could happen is you get hit with the equivalent of a paintball. I'd wear eye protection but otherwise in the extremely unlikely event a primer did go off you might end up with a bad bruise, but more likely just a bruise.
I don't have the link handy but SAAMI put together a video for firefighters that shows what happens when ammunition cooks off in a fire. It's interesting, and a lot less dramatic than I would have believed. Not at all like the movies. |
#12
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#14
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You need to push the top of the primer into the built in anvil, and hard and fast. The anvil is protected inside of the brass, so it's pretty accident proof in an inertia puller. There's just no way to put force between the untouched outside of the primer and the anvil.
I recently got a progressive, and now me and the inertia puller are certainly more aquatinted. |
#15
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I don't know details (technique-wise.) I use a 1 foot section of 4x4 lumber stood on end as an anvil. I don't use concrete or metal (not for fear of detonation, rather for fear of breaking yet another intertial puller...) |
#16
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I have the collet bullet puller and collets for most of the rifle calibers I load. I use the inertia puller when it is just a round or two that I need to work on. The collet bullet puller would be difficult to use on many handgun rounds that do not have much of a full diameter section of the bullet exposed. If the full diameter of the bullet is right at or just inside the case mouth, there is not much for the collet to grab onto with the tapered exposed portion of the bullet I use the inertia puller for most handgun rounds. I use a lot of cast lead bullets and I think they could be easily marred by a collet puller.
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#17
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There has bee a couple documented cases of the inertia pullers setting off a primer when the regular collet was substituted for a regular shell holder. Apparently, the shell holder allows the case to move around allowing the edge of the shell holder to set off a high primer.
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#18
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Primers are ignited with heat, not impact.
The velocity of the primer cup being crushed by the firing pin and sandwiching primer material between it and the anvil causes the magic. Technically you're putting more heat into the cartridge than a firing pin, but it's distributed vs pinpoint. This is also why you can crush a primer in a vise (slowly) and nothing happens. |
#19
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Would you like to rephrase that?
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#20
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Ive used a kinetic puller on duds without issue. These were .44mag with significant strikes, but didnt go off. I think the pockets were a little deeper on these cases. Just keep the primer pointed away from you. That will shoot off like a pellet gun.
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#22
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Umm...... no. Impact is the mechanism that ignites a primer.
https://www.nrafamily.org/articles/2...about-primers/ Quote:
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#23
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I agree, and I'll use the cautions about shooting high velocity rounds at hardened steel plates to explain why.
When a bullet strikes a steel plate, most of its energy is converted from kinetic energy (motion) to thermal energy (heat). At high enough velocities, the heat that's generated during deceleration on impact is high enough to melt a bit of the hardened steel at the point of impact and form the crater. If impact velocity is too low, there's not enough kinetic energy available to melt the hardened steel. The underlying scientific principle is conservation of energy. The steel plate example transfers directly to primers. And certain binary explosives. Now nuclear weapons are a different story altogether... |
#24
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#25
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never heard of it....
Hear a lot about bent handles....
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Rule 1- ALL GUNS ARE ALWAYS LOADED Rule 2 -NEVER LET THE MUZZLE COVER ANYTHING YOU ARE NOT PREPARED TO DESTROY (including your hands and legs) Rule 3 -KEEP YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER UNTIL YOUR SIGHTS ARE ON THE TARGET Rule 4 -BE SURE OF YOUR TARGET AND WHAT IS BEYOND IT (thanks to Jeff Cooper) |
#26
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Here's a link to a documented case. Click on the "Expand" bar on the attached quote in the first post on the page. The member of the forum is "MtJerry" that it happened to.
https://www.shootersforum.com/thread...warning.50347/ There are photos attached to show what happened. I've also heard of other but I'm not going to waste time scanning the net. I use the supplied collet, not a shell holder that some recommend. |
#27
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Once I had to used the Hornady Cam Lock Puller (https://www.brownells.com/reloading/...18-113840.aspx)
to pull bullet out of around 350-400 round of 38SPL. It was a breeze, everything was an OK. I do not know about the Inertial Kinetic Hammer to remove the bullet. The Cam Lock Puller is only $20 more than the Kinetic Hammer, to save you from injure for 20 bucks it is a very good deal. Remember, now a day, 20 buck is just a 40 round of 9 mils. |
#28
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YES it did happen and it was so simple that nobody even saw it coming. Literally, nobody saw it coming... The year was 2028 and Adam C. Pershing (yes, in AZ) had retreated to the crawlspace of his house where he had created between the void of the ground and his sub floor, a small sealed off section where he kept his ammunition and reloading components hidden from the world. He spent most of his days breaking into homes and stealing ammo and he had hit the jackpot in one home and scored over 5k rounds of .22, Jap 7mm and 40 cal. Well, when he got into his crawlspace to start taking apart the ammo he had an inertia puller and did not see that there was a nail sticking down from the floor and he accidentally raised the puller up with one of the .40 cals inside it and he ended up tapping the nail point that was sticking out, which set off the primer and it blew up and shattered the puller. But the funny part was that he came out of the crawl space with a blackened face and licking his lips cause he lost feeling on the right side and his hair was a little hmmm, melted? in a small spot or two, well, just the ends were curled up and smelled nasty right above his right ear... We had a good laugh at that one, and there was a trickle of blood from his right temple area, but nothing serious, just a few pieces of plastic shrapnel hit him, the rest of the puller and cartridge were still in the crawlspace. Good thing for him he was already blind in his right eye and he could not hear very well either. The ringing subsided about an hour later and that was when I made a note to myself to not pull bullets in crawlspaces... I just figured at that time, I would stick to gathering ammo that was already made for my guns, not harvesting the powder and primers from off calibers that nobody used anymore and trying to make them work...
There ya go Ham...
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#29
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#30
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Definitely don't modify your puller. It's built that way on purpose! |
#31
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#32
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Anyway, I pulled almost 300 rounds of 40 cal today. I made these rounds years ago, and they were the first I ever did. I just HAD to make sure that there were no squibs, and yeah, it appears like they were okay. Onward and upward.
Oh, literally bent the my inertia puller - for fun I pulled a couple of Winchester WB to compare and they were crimped like you cannot believe. You could see the full outline of the bullet in the casing. It took all I had to get them apart. Big strikes as hard as I could muster.. Was careful to dump the powder separately. . Last edited by orangeusa; 06-19-2021 at 9:18 PM.. |
#33
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Better, and longer "moisture-seal" on the projectile side, I assume? Oh, OP can you change the Subject/Topic to something more.... specific to the topic? Seems a bit generic-click-baitey... Last edited by the86d; 06-20-2021 at 5:59 AM.. |
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