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  #1  
Old 06-09-2023, 8:25 AM
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Default Minor rust - Browning Citori

I left the Browning Citori OU in the bag for maybe 5 weeks in my office. Zipper closed and has padlock. No air conditioning or anything happening. Maybe still the furnace on for some cold night late April / early May. I opened it last week before heading to the trap range and I noticed some rusting on the barrel near the action (a few spots looking like pitting). I was able to use a blue scotchbrite but there was a little bit on the rib.



I used a tooth brush to remove the surface stuff and oiled it when i cleaned it last week after doing a few rounds at the range and discovering it. Because the rib is checkered, I can't evenly get it out. I think the barrel and rib is painted? is there a rust removal that won't harm the finish? just to get down to where i can't brush or rub out.
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  #2  
Old 06-09-2023, 8:38 AM
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W.R.Buchanan W.R.Buchanan is offline
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OK Here's a Hot Tip! Get a hard case for your gun, the gun lives in the hard case full time. In the case is grease and oil to lube the gun every time you put it together. A Travel Tube of Vaseline will work perfectly for the grease for the Hinge and any kind of gun oil for the rest. Put both in a Plastic Zip Lock Bag in case they leak.

There is also a Silicone Gun Rag and a Bore Snake that is run thru the barrel after each session and wiped down to get all hand prints off the metal before putting it in the Case.

There is also a Large Desiccant Package in the Case to suck up any moisture that gets in.

The case is stored in a Warm Dry Closet or other Dry Place when not in use.

You never store a good gun in a Soft Case. Soft cases are for transporting your gun from your safe to the range or shooting venue. Not storing it.

Do these things and your gun will look new forever! And you will also look like you know what you are doing at the range, Even if you don't!.

Randy
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Last edited by W.R.Buchanan; 06-09-2023 at 6:18 PM..
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  #3  
Old 06-09-2023, 7:26 PM
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I have a safe plus golden rod plus dessicant. I only left it on the bag for those weeks. it's a soft bag by Beretta . I do want a proper ou hard case in the future but I like getting it out and go go go. I Just left it there a little too long this time. But yeah. I've seen rust on the semi auto section from folks with pelicans for ex. For their ars

Back to question. What can I use to remove that tiny bit of rust without affecting the paint? It's minor but annoys me
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  #4  
Old 06-10-2023, 4:43 AM
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Try some Rem oil (or other protective gun oil) and a soft brush. If it is going to come off, that will do it.

* and my two Sporting shotguns live in soft cases. A quick wipe down with a microfiber cloth and Rem oil does the job. They get shot weekly and none the worse for wear or rust....I gave away all my hard cases years ago. Seemed silly to have to take apart and reassemble my guns every week.
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  #5  
Old 06-10-2023, 6:20 AM
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It takes about 20 seconds to remove the two sections of O/U from a hard case, remove the fore end from the barrel, attach the barrel to the receiver and re-insert the fore end.

Less time than I've spent writing this.
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  #6  
Old 06-10-2023, 9:49 AM
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I am sure it is fast, but I see no reason to do it.

That is probably why I do not shoot trap and hang out with the Sporting Clay's crowd. 😉
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  #7  
Old 06-10-2023, 1:43 PM
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will scrub a little more oil and see where that goes. thanks Swiftone
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  #8  
Old 06-11-2023, 8:13 AM
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WD-40 and a soft brass brush on the checkered rib.

Should be blue, not paint.

If any rust went beyond the blue, then cold blue to touch up.
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  #9  
Old 06-11-2023, 11:12 AM
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Get some Kroil oil. It works great on rust. Use some Number 3 or 4 steel wool.

You can touch up with some instant blue if the area needs it.

This will not mean the area will not show any damage. It depends on the depth of the rust. Light surface rust may not be noticeable but if it is deep you can't get rid of it other than a full reblue.

I can't stand his politics but as Neil Young said "Rust never sleeps"
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  #10  
Old 06-11-2023, 4:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mausercat View Post
Get some Kroil oil. It works great on rust. Use some Number 3 or 4 steel wool.

You can touch up with some instant blue if the area needs it.

This will not mean the area will not show any damage. It depends on the depth of the rust. Light surface rust may not be noticeable but if it is deep you can't get rid of it other than a full reblue.

I can't stand his politics but as Neil Young said "Rust never sleeps"
I hope you mean 4/0 (super fine) steel wool. But he said it's in the checkering of the rib.

FTR, some poopoo steel wool as they say it embeds tiny pieces of steel wool, which then rust.

On smooth areas, I've read rubbing it with a copper penny and WD-40.
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  #11  
Old 06-11-2023, 5:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W.R.Buchanan View Post
OK Here's a Hot Tip! Get a hard case for your gun, the gun lives in the hard case full time. In the case is grease and oil to lube the gun every time you put it together. A Travel Tube of Vaseline will work perfectly for the grease for the Hinge and any kind of gun oil for the rest. Put both in a Plastic Zip Lock Bag in case they leak.

There is also a Silicone Gun Rag and a Bore Snake that is run thru the barrel after each session and wiped down to get all hand prints off the metal before putting it in the Case.

There is also a Large Desiccant Package in the Case to suck up any moisture that gets in.

The case is stored in a Warm Dry Closet or other Dry Place when not in use.

You never store a good gun in a Soft Case. Soft cases are for transporting your gun from your safe to the range or shooting venue. Not storing it.

Do these things and your gun will look new forever! And you will also look like you know what you are doing at the range, Even if you don't!.

Randy
I use silicone gun socks for storing everything. Clean the gun after every outing, put it in the sock, then back in the safe. No safe rash on any of my guns.
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  #12  
Old 06-11-2023, 7:07 PM
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Agree on not using steel wool as it does embed and will rust.
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  #13  
Old 06-12-2023, 5:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bakerloo View Post
I use silicone gun socks for storing everything. Clean the gun after every outing, put it in the sock, then back in the safe. No safe rash on any of my guns.
i do have those too when it's going back to the safe. a little bit of a pita because i have the Graco where as with my 20ga OU with just a solid stock, it's much easier to slip on.



thanks for the tips. i have kroil also. will try with a stiffer nylon brush before i hit the brass brush.



i guess i'll have to bring that cloth (oiled can't remember the name). and have been putting it back to the safe after; just gotta remember the wipe down. i have a oiled rag i bought (can't remember the name).
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  #14  
Old 06-12-2023, 6:57 AM
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Bullfrog Rusthunter Gun Wipes.

These are primarily to prevent rust, but I've seen them do amazing things when there is already rust present. Since you already have rust, it's going to take a while, so be patient.

1. Wipe down the infected area with a Rusthunter wipe--heck, wipe down the entire shotgun--and let it sit for a week (not in a case, and preferably a dry area).

2. After a week, dip a nylon brush in regular cleaning solvent and scrub the infected area. Wipe down with a rag. If the Rusthunter did its job, it penetrated into the metal's pores to lift out the rust. You'll know this because the rag will show orange.

3. Repeat.

With luck, your rag will stop turning orange after 2-3 applications. A couple notes: As 'mausercat' said, the area might still show signs of damage depending on how badly the rust penetrated. Also, as I alluded to earlier, Rusthunter is meant as a protectant (and a cleaner), not a rust remover. If you neglect the shotgun, the rust can return, so keep it under control by wiping the shotgun after use/cleaning.

I swear by Rusthunter wipes, but YMMV, so the best of luck to you!
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  #15  
Old 06-12-2023, 7:33 AM
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I am a long time believer of Eds Red.
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  #16  
Old 06-12-2023, 7:26 PM
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Place a 870 express next to it and it will literally pull the rust right to it.
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  #17  
Old 06-12-2023, 9:28 PM
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Yes, I was talking about 4 ought steel wool. The fine one.

BTW if you scrub hard with a bronze brush you will leave a golden color on the steel.

You can use 4 ought steel wool and clean it up with a nylon brush.
i would use plenty of Kroil, if you do not have Kroil the original Hoppes No. 9 works well. You do need to go over it with a good rust protectant oil afterwords. I use Lucas CLP.
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  #18  
Old 06-15-2023, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bakerloo View Post
I use silicone gun socks for storing everything. Clean the gun after every outing, put it in the sock, then back in the safe. No safe rash on any of my guns.
That's because you actually take care of your guns!

So do I but most don't really know how, hence the decertation on gun care.

Swifty: The reason for taking the gun apart is so that you may keep it properly Lubricated. You can't properly Lube the Hinge without taking the gun apart. Also it is impossible to lube the Ejectors without taking the fore end off the gun.

It cost me $250 to get the Hinge on my Citori .410 repaired after it seized on a hot day due to poor lubrication.

They say all information costs $. In this case it was $250.

The Speeding Ticket I got a month ago cost me $235 and that was when I was told by the CHP that they were enforcing Speed Limits more vigorously because of the $32B Budget Short Fall here in the state. I was doing 85 but the guy wrote me for 70mph! He said keep it under 80!

I was passing someone doing 80!

Randy
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  #19  
Old 06-15-2023, 2:03 PM
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Randy....never said I do not lube my guns or the hinge... you do know that other people on this forum have their own methods of caring for their equipment? Or are you so arrogant that your way is the only way?

Oh yea you posted - "Travel Tube of Vaseline will work perfectly for the grease for the Hinge" and "it cost me $250 to get the Hinge on my Citori .410 repaired after it seized on a hot day due to poor lubrication"

You do know that Vaseline is not recommended as a gun lube and will run with high temperatures? Maybe if you had spent $5 on a lube designed for the job you could had saved yourself a $250 gunsmithing fee.

Last edited by swiftone; 06-15-2023 at 4:52 PM..
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Old 06-15-2023, 4:17 PM
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Brownells - How to Fix Light Rust on a Gun

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J41c-uWChmM
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  #21  
Old 06-16-2023, 6:12 AM
Ducky's Dad Ducky's Dad is offline
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Quote:
You do know that Vaseline is not recommended as a gun lube
Parker Brothers recommended Vaseline for hinge pin lube. Original hang tags included that info. L.C. Smith recommended Singer Sewing Machine Oil. The best lube is the one that you actually use. There are better products n0w, but the old stuff still works.
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  #22  
Old 06-17-2023, 2:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deckhandmike View Post
Place a 870 express next to it and it will literally pull the rust right to it.
i do have one. it is in a gun sock though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GunDog View Post
Brownells - How to Fix Light Rust on a Gun

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J41c-uWChmM
thanks will check this out.
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  #23  
Old 06-17-2023, 2:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullwinkle View Post
Bullfrog Rusthunter Gun Wipes.

These are primarily to prevent rust, but I've seen them do amazing things when there is already rust present. Since you already have rust, it's going to take a while, so be patient.

1. Wipe down the infected area with a Rusthunter wipe--heck, wipe down the entire shotgun--and let it sit for a week (not in a case, and preferably a dry area).

2. After a week, dip a nylon brush in regular cleaning solvent and scrub the infected area. Wipe down with a rag. If the Rusthunter did its job, it penetrated into the metal's pores to lift out the rust. You'll know this because the rag will show orange.

3. Repeat.

With luck, your rag will stop turning orange after 2-3 applications. A couple notes: As 'mausercat' said, the area might still show signs of damage depending on how badly the rust penetrated. Also, as I alluded to earlier, Rusthunter is meant as a protectant (and a cleaner), not a rust remover. If you neglect the shotgun, the rust can return, so keep it under control by wiping the shotgun after use/cleaning.

I swear by Rusthunter wipes, but YMMV, so the best of luck to you!

will check this out too. thanks!
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  #24  
Old 06-21-2023, 5:22 PM
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W.R.Buchanan W.R.Buchanan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swiftone View Post
Randy....never said I do not lube my guns or the hinge... you do know that other people on this forum have their own methods of caring for their equipment? Or are you so arrogant that your way is the only way?

Oh yea you posted - "Travel Tube of Vaseline will work perfectly for the grease for the Hinge" and "it cost me $250 to get the Hinge on my Citori .410 repaired after it seized on a hot day due to poor lubrication"

You do know that Vaseline is not recommended as a gun lube and will run with high temperatures? Maybe if you had spent $5 on a lube designed for the job you could had saved yourself a $250 gunsmithing fee.
The gun was lubed with a Silicon Grease. The Vaseline came after the Seizure I just didn't have enough on it that day and it was over 100F at the Range in Ojai. The gun was tight to begin with so this was inevitable.

Vaseline was recommended by a local Shotgun Enthusiast who knows gun better than anyone I know. He uses it on all his High Dollar guns and he has about 50 of them. (Never Married!)

As far as the Arrogance? I'll cop to that. Everybody that I have ever met that was good at anything was a little bit Arrogant. I'm good at lots of stuff. I'm a Machinist/Toolmaker with nearly 50 years in the trade, it kind of goes with the territory.

Keep in mind that many people reading this have no idea how to care for a nice gun. I was just providing some ideas.

Never said it was "My Way, or the Highway."

This gun has lived in this case since it was bought in 1965,,, It is still nearly perfect. 58 years! Even has the Instruction Manual in it.



Randy
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Rule #2 Whatever they accuse you of, they are already doing.
Rule #3 Liberals lie about anything no matter how insignificant.
Rule #4 If all else fails, they call you a Racist!

It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,, It is how well you do what you don't know how to do.
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

Last edited by W.R.Buchanan; 07-31-2023 at 12:57 PM..
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