Pistol silencer question

[sigstroker]

Some of the threaded muzzle pistol barrels I got have an o-ring, I guess to help keep the thread protector on. Some of them do not. I've shot my pistol with the one that didn't come with an o-ring, and the silencer tends to unscrew itself pretty quickly. Like in one magazine.

Those of you who have shot your silenced pistols much, do you use the o-ring with the silencer, or do you take it off? I wouldn't think it's any kind of issue with concentricity because the threads are still there. The o-ring sure seems like it would keep the can tighter, longer, assuming it doesn't melt.

[nitroxdiver]

Sig,
My pistons for my pistol caliber suppressor has an oring inside the piston/neilson device threads so that it helps keep it screwed on. If I had any pistols with an oring as part of the barrel threads, I would have to remove it because my pistons have one already. If my suppressor didn’t, I’d leave it on the gun. All that said, I always have a mechanics gloves suppressor hot pad with me and check that it’s tight after every magazine. My .22 suppressor is threads only with no oring, so that one I really need to check after every magazine so I don’t get a baffle strike if it walks loose.

[Mac Attack]

I used to run an o-ring on my pistol barrels and it did help but my suppressor still loosened up. Now I run Griffin Armament’s CAM-LOK system and even when I have run my handguns hard my suppressors have not walked loose.

Suppressor twist on and off easily on 1/4 turn so no need to screw on/off and the 3-lug with taper adapter keeps it from walking loose. Another benefit with the CAM-LOK system is you no longer need to carry around different pitch pistons to change out for different pitched hosts. Before when I was shooting my 1911 in 45 (.578x28) if I wanted to use the same can on a 9mm (1/2x28) I had to change the piston. Then if I wanted to then use the same can on one of my Sigs I had to change the piston again because of the Sigs M13.5x1L thread. With the CAM-LOK you put a special piston in your suppressors (each unique to the can) and then a universal 3-lug style adapter onto the barrel.

With that setup I can run the same suppressor on different hosts without needing to change the piston. It’s revolutionary and I highly recommend it! Sure you have to buy adapters for each barrel and new pistons for your suppressors but the fact that they don’t walk off brings me peace of mind knowing my NFA item will not be damaged. Check it out on YT and see.

[nitroxdiver]

Good info mac thanks!

[sigstroker]

I considered it when it first came out, but I have so many different pistols that I probably wouldn't put very many rounds through, it seemed like it wasn't a good fit for me.

I was surprised how dirty the piston and spring got. With factory jacketed ammo, the piston and spring got gunked up after only about 50-60 rounds.

[sigstroker]

Originally Posted by nitroxdiver

Sig,
My pistons for my pistol caliber suppressor has an oring inside the piston/neilson device threads so that it helps keep it screwed on. If I had any pistols with an oring as part of the barrel threads, I would have to remove it because my pistons have one already. If my suppressor didn’t, I’d leave it on the gun. All that said, I always have a mechanics gloves suppressor hot pad with me and check that it’s tight after every magazine. My .22 suppressor is threads only with no oring, so that one I really need to check after every magazine so I don’t get a baffle strike if it walks loose.

My SilencerCo/Blackhawk! pistons didn't come with o-rings, so I guess I'll try the one on the barrel.

Thanks

[nitroxdiver]

Originally Posted by sigstroker

I was surprised how dirty the piston and spring got. With factory jacketed ammo, the piston and spring got gunked up after only about 50-60 rounds.

.22lr is even worse. This is the lead build up after just 200 rounds of cci minimag on the 1st blast chamber baffle. I’m going to be picking up an ultrasonic cleaner from harbor freight here real soon.

[sigstroker]

I expect that from a .22 can, did not expect so much fowling from .45. It was Federal Premium ammo too, not the cheap stuff. I'm not even sure where my tumbler is.

[nitroxdiver]

Originally Posted by sigstroker

I expect that from a .22 can, did not expect so much fowling from .45. It was Federal Premium ammo too, not the cheap stuff. I'm not even sure where my tumbler is.

Yea my spring on my pistol caliber cans gets pretty crappy also. I’ve also started putting a very light coat of white lithium grease on the piston where the spring rides.

[sigstroker]

Did I really say "fowling"? Oh well.

Would a regular vibratory tumbler work? It would be okay if it just took longer.

BTW you don't want to use it on aluminum baffles. That's why I chose the .22 can that I did - stainless baffles.

[CheapBloke]

Originally Posted by nitroxdiver

.22lr is even worse. This is the lead build up after just 200 rounds of cci minimag on the 1st blast chamber baffle. I’m going to be picking up an ultrasonic cleaner from harbor freight here real soon.

Not sure what suppressors are made from, but if it is aluminum, ultrasonic cleaner might be a bad idea.

Took a Kaw Valley Muzzle brake that was aluminum to the ultrasonic, and almost ate the aluminum. The finish was there, but the metal gotten brittle.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[nitroxdiver]

Originally Posted by CheapBloke

Not sure what suppressors are made from, but if it is aluminum, ultrasonic cleaner might be a bad idea.

Took a Kaw Valley Muzzle brake that was aluminum to the ultrasonic, and almost ate the aluminum. The finish was there, but the metal gotten brittle.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

This one in the photo is 100% stainless steel. Tube, baffles, and end cap. MFR recommends ultrasonic cleaning for this particular can. Great point about ultrasonics and aluminum though.

[Mac Attack]

For cleaning my suppressors I have tried ultrasonic cleaning, “The Dip” and manually scrubbing with solvent. My new method for cleaning my aluminum and stainless suppressor is to use a soda blaster. It does a great job getting off the carbon deposits but makes a mess.

[sigstroker]

Silencer Shop did an article on that a few years ago. You should be able to just do it in your back yard, right? I guess a tiny bit of lead would come off, but the soda should be harmless(?)

[Mac Attack]

I do my cleaning in the yard. Some say that the soda will kill grass but I have not experienced that ..yet. I bought a $30 soda blaster and a $10 50 lb bag of soda from Harbor Freight that connects to my compressor. Since I don’t clean my serviceable cans too often the cheap unit works for me. But if I was cleaning more frequently I would invest in a blast cabinet.

[sigstroker]

I wish I could find something that reliably kills grass. I've tried weed killer, I've tried salt, and the damm stuff keeps growing.

[CheapBloke]

Originally Posted by sigstroker

I wish I could find something that reliably kills grass. I've tried weed killer, I've tried salt, and the damm stuff keeps growing.

Cat Piss.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[beanz2]

Originally Posted by sigstroker

I wish I could find something that reliably kills grass. I've tried weed killer, I've tried salt, and the damm stuff keeps growing.

https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/....php?t=1811040

[nitroxdiver]

Originally Posted by sigstroker

I was surprised how dirty the piston and spring got. With factory jacketed ammo, the piston and spring got gunked up after only about 50-60 rounds.

For those not familiar with what Sig is talking about, here’s my piston and spring after only 10 rounds of 9mm fmj through an FN509 tactical and a dry rugged obsidian suppressor.

[sigstroker]

Originally Posted by beanz2

https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/....php?t=1811040

That only works temporarily, assuming I don't burn my house down. My dad used to periodically burn our lawn, and then it would grow back bigger, like whiskers.

[beanz2]

Originally Posted by sigstroker

That only works temporarily, assuming I don't burn my house down. My dad used to periodically burn our lawn, and then it would grow back bigger, like whiskers.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/H...0355/309396387

Back on topic. I’ve never used an o-ring with my direct threads, but I mostly run some sort of QD attachment. KeyMo on rifles, tri-lug on large frame pistols and PCCs. The adapters are Rocksett-ed in place. I don’t shoot long strings with a can that I always have the opportunity to check the can with a suppressor mitt. If I were to keep a suppressor attached for long term like I plan on my bolt rifle, I’d probably use Rocksett.

[sigstroker]

The o-ring actually worked well. In fact, the coupler unscrewed from the can when I went to remove it. I don't envision much use of cans on a pistol, I've only function tested so far. Other people have shot my .45 can more than me.

Do they make silicone o-rings? I should probably use those instead of rubber ones that could melt.

[beanz2]

Of course. https://www.grainger.com/category/ha...1&gclsrc=3p.ds

But if suppressor heat can discolor Cerakoting, can silicone survive?

[Mac Attack]

I shoot my pistol cans more than my rifle cans. I used standard O-rings; the black type you’d buy for your sink faucet at THD. The O-rings did an ok job of keeping the cans locked in but they still loosened up. I have had people with more experience than me tell me that they use white plumbers/compression tape with better results but I never tried it.

I never worried whether they were silicone or rubber and I’ve fired thousands of rounds through my pistol suppressors. Just make sure that the O-rings do not cause the suppressor to mis-align which could cause a baffle strike.

Honestly, I recommend the Griffin CAM-LOK or their new EZ-LOK system if you are concerned about changing pistons and cans walking off.